Fan pulley success!

[EZ]

Pulling the fan pulley off can be a real pain unless you have the proper tools. I was able to pull one off the '67 Loboy with ease. I used a bearing splitter and a home made puller. The puller is made from a piece of 3" wide channel with a 1 and 1/4" bolt threaded through the middle. I wonder how many people are aware of the threaded hole on the end of the crankshaft. I threaded a bolt into that hole, after drilling a pilot hole on the bolt head so the puller point would not slip off. This rig worked great, I'll try to post a pic some time.

[artc]

Ez there was a thread a short time ago on this topic. Jim Hudson had a picture of a beefy looking bearing separator. it so happens that on an inquery to my Dad, he handed me what looks like the very same unit!

Perhaps one of our experienced crank pulley guys (that includes you now, EZ) could do a Tech Tip for Rudi's maintenance section?? i have yet to attempt it, but my 48 is leaking oil and water like a race horse, as they say , so that task is coming.

[Rudi]

Art:

Excellent suggestion That would be a real boon for those of us who have never done it.

EZ - what you think

A few pics along with a narrative would be great. A pic or two of the setup you made would be helpful as well.

[EZ]

artc,Rudi,

I remember Jim's picture, and was trying to come up with something similar. It would be great to share any and all tips and tricks as we fumble along. I have found that a lot of challenges we face seem to be very difficult if not impossible, until we actually start to get proactive and move in a forward direction with a positive attitude.

That being said, I will actively seek a digital camera for some pics.

The '67 Loboy is almost stripped down now, hyd unit is off and ready for work, removed the instrument panel and wiring harness, the engine is mostly bare while I wait for an engine stand. I'm hoping to keep this as a hobby for awhile, so there's no rush. Should have a nice little machine at the finish.

[Rudi]

EZ:

Have you looked at Princess Auto? http://www.princessauto.com

They currently have a sale - shop crane with engine stand as one unit. I think it is around $200.00

Download the current sales brochure at the Princess Auto home page.

I saw the crane/stand at the store on Saturday

Will await the pics.

Now, I have a question. By anychance are you going to do up the Lo-Boy in CN colours????? It certainly would be one of the unique Cubs around and a definite show stopper!

It would be a great Cub to bring to the CubFest in June hint hint

[George Willer]

In order to remove the pulley, the front end must be removed and put aside. It's most easily done if the front end is made into a one handled wheelbarrow. Note that the axle pivot and also the steering shaft are immobilized.

This photo was taken last Saturday as I was swapping a couple engines. Sorry for the blurry picture, but it may help someone.

[Donny M]

George,

It looks like that wheelbarrow only has enough room for a small radiator.
It's great how inventive we can be when working alone.

[EZ]

Rudi,

CN Orange for sure.
Cubfest, maybe.
Loboy in tow, can't gonna happen.

Pics, I sure hope so.

Engine stand, I got a couple leads. Hate to have to buy one for use the odd time.

Sounds like you are getting lots of work for your toy. Me too!

[artc]

EZ: my engine stand was simple to make. it consists of the following pieces:

3" X 3" structual angle iron - 2 pieces 36" long, 1 piece 60"
1.5" X 1.5" angle 15" approx. for an angle brace.

the mounting holes on the uprights are at 29" (lower hole) and 32.5" (upper hole) for a standard Cub. The holes have a 2" offset and are 5/8 diameter. a piece of steel will need to be welded on the upright to locate the second hole.

in the 60" base piece, two holes 15" apart for the uprights, and a couple of holes for a small angle brace on one side.




There's a picture on another thread a couple of weeks ago.

[George Willer]

I had a new engine stand that was never used. I got rid of it some years ago.

I work on Cub engines on a small, flat table with casters. When working on the top end, the engine rests on the flywheel.

When working on the bottom end, the engine rests on the top surface.

When completed and the pan is on, it rests on 4 2x4 blocks under the pan lip. (to install clutch)

It works for me. The engines were swapped last Saturday.

[artc]

sorry meant to say splitting stand. and the uprights need to be 15" apart, not the holes. i needed more editing.

[johnbron]

George:, In your engine pictures the exhaust stack/pipes look to be larger than 1" pipe. Are they bigger or is it just the photo making them appear that way

[George Willer]

George:, In your engine pictures the exhaust stack/pipes look to be larger than 1" pipe. Are they bigger or is it just the photo making them appear that way

Maybe it's the aluminum paint. They're 1" pipe.

[Donny M]

Goerge Willer wrote:

Maybe it's the aluminum paint. They're 1" pipe.

George what brand and type of paint did you use? How long before it discolors or burns? Most hi-temp paint that I've used isn't hi-temp for long.

Donny

[EZ]

George et al,

I got my hands on an engine stand, will be picking it up tonite.
I'm thinking the clutch has to come off before bolting the engine to the stand. The reason for the stand is, I remember working on the '49 engine while laying on my back. Now that I have a bit of experience with the engine, I would love to be able to rotate it 360degrees. My front bolster is removed, as well as the rad, the engine is just settin' there waiting to be opened up. I plan on de-glazing the jugs, lapping the valves, checking the crank and bearings, rings, etc..........

Thanks for the input guys.