Sat Aug 02, 2008 3:20 pm
How do I remove the inner bearing, I tried what the manual said but its not moving, do you need to wail on it to get it off or is there a trick???Im trying to get it off between the washer thats against the felt and the back of the bearing (in the groove) Also there is some slop in the bearing is it shot???
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Sat Aug 02, 2008 5:42 pm
I ahve had good luck with that kind of aituation with a punch or very dull chisel used on the back side of the race. Sometimes they are stuck pretty good. Slop in the bearing now is normal, the tapered outer race takes care of that when you adjust the bearings. Just check that the inner race or rollers are not pitted. If not, it should be good. They do not turn very fast or carry a heavy load, so they will last a long time if water is kept out of them.
Sat Aug 02, 2008 6:54 pm
I used a big punch and large hammer. It damaged my seals but as I was replacing the bearings I also wanted to replace the seals too, so it didn't mater if I tore the seals up. A good solid lick and they came right off.
Sat Aug 02, 2008 9:30 pm
Ball joint seperator, if you have one large enough.
Gear puller if the teeth are thin enough.
All else fails, punch or chisel as previously suggested.
Sat Aug 02, 2008 9:39 pm
Use some never sieze (copper coat) if you have some when you put everything back together, this won't ever happen again.
Sat Aug 02, 2008 10:46 pm
I agree with RAW, look them over good and reuse them if there not pitted. Mine were shot and I was shocked at what it cost to replace all 4 of mine plus the seals.
Sun Aug 03, 2008 8:04 am
A "mule's foot" chisel will work very well for this task...because of it's geometry, it will get into the tight fit very well and give you the "edge" you need. The cone and cup bearing is VERY forgiving, especially for the speeds they're going to encounter in your rear wheel application......I'd reuse them even if they are pitted because at the speed they will be running they will last literally forever. They'd almost have to be in pieces for me to replace at the prices they command at bearing supply houses these days. Be sure they're cleaned, lightly oiled, properly "preloaded", and you're good to go. Remember going back together: heat (temperature differential) is your friend....drop that axle in the freezer for a couple of hours and the cone into the oven @ 300 degrees or so for 15 minutes, then work FAST. The anti-sieze the others recommended is right on the money. Be sure the outboard seal and it's carrier are on beforehand.....that's one that (seemingly at least) that could get away from you especially if you're "long in the tooth" as I am. Post back, it's always good to close the loop and let e'one know how it turns out......it's just as important to know why something went right as it is to know why something went wrong. JH
Sun Aug 03, 2008 8:14 am
Oh-oh, the above posting was for REAR wheel bearing replacement......only when I posted and went to look at it did I see it's a front wheel application. Rules probably pretty much the same, except "inboard" and "outboard" probably reverse. I have never done a front wheel, but that is in my very near future....I have done two final drive refurbs and the posting above (in my judgment) should be beneficial. JH
Sun Aug 03, 2008 8:17 am
A bearing separator, coupled with a gear puller, works well. The bearing separator's two halves have a "knife edge" and clamp down around the bearing. Then the gear puller pulls off the separator. If you don't have all of that I'll bet you can rent one.
Sun Aug 03, 2008 8:23 am
I used an air hammer. But the bearing seperator with a puller might work better.
Sun Aug 03, 2008 6:14 pm
Couldnt get it off.I tried a couple different size chisles it wouldnt move.I started to mess up the seals and thay look good to me so I didnt want to replace them and the bottom of the groove was getting nicked up so I stoped.I cleaned up the inner bearing and greased it up as good as I could get it leaving alot on the out side and put it back togeather.Ill go back later in the fall and try again.I would thing it would be ok as is because it doesnt move very fast.
Fri Apr 11, 2014 11:52 am
I know this email is several years past the original post. However, here is what I did to remove the very stuck inner bearing. I bought a bearing splitter from Harbor Freight Tools. It comes in a nice case with both a 2" and 3" splitter. It was $45. I used this to easily remove the bearing and then, flipping the splitter mechanism around, used it to install/press the inner bearing onto the shaft. It could not have worked out better.
Maybe this late post will help someone else.
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