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I'm replacing my brakes on a 48 Cub and want to replace the axle oil seals while I've got it apart. Are the left and right seals the same? I've seen a cross reference to part numbers for Cub seals, but now I can't find it. These are the oil seals left in the tractor after the final drives are removed. Can someone point me in the right direction?
Last edited by Gerry Powell on Wed Apr 08, 2009 4:03 pm, edited 3 times in total.
The seals are the same for the left and right side. 350 822 R91 is the part number.
However you will have to take the final drive off and press the axle off to do a seal job. You might all well just replace all the seals and gaskets at that point. You will need a press for that job.
Good judgment comes from experience, and experience comes from poor judgment.
1959 LO-Boy 1950 Super A
Thanks for the walk down amnesia lane.
I did this last summer.
It really is good experience.
"But the Farmall Cub is part of the family, we could never sell it." My wife. 4/9/2007
If you buy the complete seals from IH, you'll pay a CHUNK of change.... you can pop the seals out of the square pressed steel housings and match them up at your nearsest bearing/seal supplier for about 1/2 the price of Case IH.... As I recall, they're about $44 apiece from Case IH. I replaced mine and they've worked fine.
I've never met a tractor I didn't like....but I have found some that were greatly annoying....
Gerry, these are what you are looking for at TM. NAPA can get these, too.
Here is your cross reference chart:
'60 FH Lo-Boy
'57 FH Cub "Rusty"
'56 FH Cub
(2) '48 Cubs
'75 IH 140 w/1000 loader
C-3 mower, FH Woods 42F, 22 sickle (2), 54A blade, L-54 blade, 194 plow, FH L-38 disk, FH LB disk, 144 cultivators, FH platform carrier
thanks to all for the help. I just made an order from TM tractor parts for brakes and seals. I checked locally to have the old brakes relined, it would have cost about twice what TM sells the new one for.
you can get new seals form your local Bearing distributer store. The axel seal is about 15 bucks each. you have to use the old retainer. the rest of the seals are less than 10 bucks each. I would post the part numbers but Im in the house so if it is needed I will post the numbers tomorrow. I Have a complete seal replacment list for the cub along with all the bearings. I beleive it is in the cub help section of this site. If not I better get busy and get them poisted.
Collector of Farmall cubs and cub cadets.Injoy helping people keep their cubs running. Years of experipnce.
Now that would be real handy for us who can look them up....but don't have the time
Robert (will have truck back tomorrow finally) Miller
I'm going to replace these seals, thanks to TM for the image.
What is involved in removing the retainer (with the 3 bolt holes)? Does it come out easily or will I need a puller?
Should I try to replace the oil seal while on the tractor or remove it so I can use a press?
If you get the seal only from NAPA or TM, you don't have to remove the retainer from the transmission to replace the seal. Use a long handled screwdriver and carefully pry the old seal out of the retainer (final drives are off at this point and you are working with the tranny only). Be careful not to mar the surface that the seal seats in. Once the old seal is out, place the new seal on the opening and gently tap with a hammer to get it started. Then, using a block of wood over the seal, tap it home until it is flush with the retainer. It is a PITA to get that retainer out of the transmission and not altogether necessary to do this job.
The last caution is to make sure that you wedge the front bolster when taking the wheels and finals off the tractor. With no wedging, and the unbalanced weight on the back, you will surely end up with a tractor on the floor without the wedges...
Good luck on the project!
Mike in La Crosse, WI
Mike (Happy as a Lark in Allison Park, PA)
Check out my Restoration Thread (1955 Cub, Lewis)
The seal can be pulled without taking it off by using one of these available for 5 or 10 dollars at most any auto parts store. There is an o ring behind that retainer, that if it is not leaking you may want to leave it alone. If you remove the retainer, be sure to replace the o ring. That retainer can be rough to pull sometimes. We did one at Docfest that I ended up going to Autozone and renting one of these puller to get it out.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=5223
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
Gerry, start on the left side first since it's a little easier. On the right you'll need to remover the center tube that the seat and battery box bolts to... Not a bad job as long as the battery box bolts come out well. You can remove the floor pan bolts that bolt to the trans area and lift the back edge enough to give you some working area... Let us know how it works out. On the right hand side I always bolt the center tube back on the final before installing so I can see the seal area while the axle goes back in.
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.
I am posting a few pics.
Yogie, good idea, I think I'll try putting the right side back on like you say.
blocked up for safety
left bearing retainer, different oil seal than on right side, probably has been changed before
right bearing retainer, different oil seal than on left side, probably original, leaking bad on brake shoes.
right final drive with brake drum removed to replace oil seal
garden, all done with Cub. Beans on the left 4 rows, sweet corn on the right 4 rows, tomatoes and peppers in the middle rows.
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