wire grass

[PeteF]

I bought a Cub a little bit ago. With it I got a single bottom plow, a drag disc, and a set of cultivators. The cultivators are, as best as I can tell, 'corn' cultivators (four teeth under the belly and one behind each wheel). Well, I picked a spot in my field and turned over a fair piece with the plow, disked a few weeks later, and have planted beans, potatoes, and a little bit of corn. I was having fun. Somewhere along the way I planted a nice crop of wire grass (some people call it bermuda) on one end. I've been pulling by hand, spot spraying with round-up, and running the cultivators as deep as I can get them and pulling plenty of roots out but I'm not convinced I'm winning. I'm spending a lot more time at this than I bargained for to the point that I'm neglecting the regular garden. Can anyone offer a good suggestion on how to get rid of the wire grass without loosing the beans and potatoes? I'm in central Virginia with somewhat sandy soil. Thanks.

[SONNY]

Check the label on weed spray called Hi-Yield, and see if it is for your type grass!---I was thinking it works on the bermuda and I know its safe on garden crops, EXCEPT corn and I think okra! thanks; sonny

[Bill E Bob]

Hi-Yield is 2-4 D I believe. (for broad leaf weeds) Best thing for Bermuda grass (typical lawn grass in Ok) is Glyphosate (Round-up).

[DanR]

Bermuda grass is hard to control this time of year. Hand pulling, cultivation, and glyphosate are about the only thing you can do now. However this fall and early next spring you can put down a pre-emergent herbicide that will work well. About the only one is made by Scotts. Read the label.

[Boss Hog]

Good luck with the wire grass, I couldnt kill so I started growing it for a living

Boss

[brichter]

I didn't know they had wire grass in Virginia. I thought that was northwest florida and alabama's curse.

[PeteF]

I'll keep spraying and pulling. This morning it looked pretty good.

"fall and early next spring you can put down a pre-emergent herbicide that will work well." - If I put down a pre-emergent, won't that cause things like beans and corn to not germinate?

[DanR]

I misunderstood where you had the problem. The pre-emergent is really a turf grass product. I would not use it elsewhere unless the label says it's OK. About the only choice I see is to wait until after harvest and do a burn-down. Then repeat it in the spring before planting. Don't till deeply. That brings weed seed to the top where it can germinate. Good Luck!

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I didn't know they had wire grass in Virginia. I thought that was northwest florida and alabama's curse.

They have it in northern Ar. also.

[DirtDoc]

I believe Hi-yield is just another glyphosate product. Keep spraying round-up on new growth. To get closer to the plants, try this, take a stick, old shovel handle, ect. and tie a rag to the end of it. Then soak the rag with the round-up. All you have to do is wick the grass with a little Rd-up being careful not to touch your crop. Then do NOT pull the grass that has been treated. It may take 2 weeks for the round-up to fully translocate thru the root system. Safety is a must. It may take a couple hours for it to fully dry on the grass. Walk backwards as you treat. Dispose of rag and stick(burning works well) or store where you keep your chemicals. Wear rubber gloves..Good Luck..Greg

[PeteF]

Would the soaked rag method be with the standard dilution of glyphosate or a higher concentrate? Round-up (which is 14% glysophate I think) says 4 ounces per gallon of water.

[DanR]

If the product you're using is 14% and the dilution is 4oz/gal. you're spraying lots of water and it's costing you a bundle of money. I would suggest looking for another product about 41% and follow the label. It will probably be about 3-5 TBS/gal. Popular brand names always cost more.

[DirtDoc]

I doubt if you find the "soaked rag" method on the label. Many years ago farmers would ''rope wick" weed in their fields. Basically a rope that was saturated with pure glyphos. was rubbed on the weeds. Either of the glyphos ,14% or 41% will work, you might have to get a little more on with the lower solution. Be sure to wick the upper most part of the weeds. That is where most of the translocating will occur. 41% is by far the best buy. Look for signal words on the container. Most glyphos. has a caution label. Some have danger. The difference is the carrier for the active aggredient . For your safety..get the "caution". Greg

[danovercash]

What you need is a "wick stick". You can make your own using some pvc pipe and fittings. Enough pipe to reach ground, a "T", 2 compression fittings, threaded plug and the piece it fits in, and a length of wick. Will try to post pic later of mine. Was told to use 50/50 mix of 41% round-up and water in the stick. If made correctly it can be stored covered upside with chemical inside till next use.

Links: http://www.rodgersinc.com/Hand_Wick_Apllicator.htm
http://www.lawn-gardening-tools.com/Pro ... dball.html
http://www.rittenhouse.ca/asp/product.asp?PG=701

[DanR]

Tell your 50/50 adviser he's all wet! WAY TO STRONG! Never exceed the dilution on the label. Seriously, you are dealing with personal injury.