Sun Apr 10, 2011 6:47 pm
I normally buy my paint from Napa, but this time I bought 2150 red from the Case dealer.
When I called Napa to get the reducer, they told me I needed to get it from the place I bought the paint.
The Case dealer is three hours from my house and I don't remember seeing reducer there anyway.
Does anyone know what I should ask for at Napa? I thought enamel reducer was pretty much the same all around.
While we are at it, what kind of hardener should I ask for? I have the fresh air machine, so no worries there.
Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:03 pm
napa enamel reducer should work fine.
Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:04 pm
NAPA should be fine - Dupont Centari works well as does the Nason line if you have an Automotive Paint Supply House in your area.
Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:29 pm
My uncle painted cars years ago and gave me a 5 gal bucket of Dupont 3812 enamel reducer he had sitting around. I use it with my IH paint with good success. I also use it with Van Sickle paint that I use on my implements. I use the cheap hardner for my local farm store to, I think it is valspar or Diamond Vogel??
Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:35 pm
panelbeater wrote:napa enamel reducer should work fine.
Right. But Napa wouldn't sell me "enamel reducer". Apparently they have multiple variations? I just need to know what to ask for.
Maybe I just need to call back when someone else answers the phone....
And if they won't sell me a universal reducer, I didn't figure it was even worth asking about the hardener or a clear coat.
Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:37 pm
tractor supply sells enamel reducer and hardener
Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:38 pm
Sounds to me like you might need to find a different Napa store???
Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:54 pm
tezell63 wrote:Sounds to me like you might need to find a different Napa store???
Well, it isn't that easy. There is one Napa store that sells paint, etc. and all the local stores order from that paint location. So I just call them direct and get a part #, then order through my local store.
I love Napa.
Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:56 pm
I do too.
Sun Apr 10, 2011 9:38 pm
The only differences in enamel reducer I know of is temperature ratings. Enamel reducer is enamel reducer.
I prefer not to use the Case IH reducer. It dries too slow. Enamel reducer works much better in my opinion.
Sun Apr 10, 2011 9:48 pm
I didn't know you had to use anything special, I just use mineral spirits and add Japan drier which I get from any old paint store.
Sun Apr 10, 2011 9:53 pm
What is a Japan dryer? Are you talking about a hardener? Mineral spirits will cut the 2150. But it dries very slow. It is a cleaner which is designed to evaporate slow. Try enamel reducer sometime and see the difference.
Sun Apr 10, 2011 9:56 pm
I have always considered a reducer for paint as an equivalent to the chemical the manufacturer lists on the can as the cleanup material. Enamel reducer is probably just a fancy way (or more expensive way) of wording it. I agree with Jim, a slow drying reducer is sometimes better when spraying in high humidity, allows any moisture to evaporate and eliminate "blushing". A reducer is only thinning the paint material to a sufficient viscosity which is better for the atomization out of your spray gun.
Sun Apr 10, 2011 10:13 pm
Brian, the blushing you are referring to is more often called solvent pop. This happens when a paint itself is skinning over and all the solvent hasn't fully evaporated out. It typically happens more often when painting when humidity is high. But an incorrect solvent can also cause this.
Mon Apr 11, 2011 6:54 am
Clear coat is not compatible with enamel. The body man says he uses acetone and no hardener. He turns out a great paint job.
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