154 transmission

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154 transmission

Postby farmall656 » Mon Sep 12, 2011 7:47 pm

got a 154 that i could only get to mve in reverse first and second only if i held the clutch just right. got looking around a nd found a bolt missing behind the clutch put that back in fired it up let the clutch out and it stalls out. dad thinks it is stuck in two gears but we have not been able to get it out of gear. also when you put it in gear and spin a tire the tire on the other side spins backwards is it supposed to do that? any help would be appretiated thanks.
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Re: 154 transmission

Postby outdoors4evr » Tue Sep 13, 2011 12:14 pm

If it is stuck in two gears then you should remove the shift lever cover and have a look inside. Chances are there is something wrong with the shift forks or the shift lever.
Shift forks are pretty easy to change. There are lots of instructions on how to do this on this website.

As for one tire turning forward and the other backwards, that is normal when both tires are off the ground.
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Re: 154 transmission

Postby farmall656 » Tue Sep 13, 2011 2:33 pm

we have opened the top up where the gear shifter is and have had no luck. what should i be looking for that could be wrong?
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Re: 154 transmission

Postby Bigdog » Tue Sep 13, 2011 2:38 pm

In neutral both forks should be aligned in the center position. Look for broken or bent shift forks.
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Re: 154 transmission

Postby Packrat » Wed Sep 14, 2011 7:24 am

If you have to "hold the clutch just right" and it would move, you have a drive problem, not trans problem. If it would move before you put the bolt in, take the bolt back out. Try to follow the power transmission to the trans before you start taking things apart willy nilly. If it drove before, go back to that point. Doesn't sound like trans problems, but clutch or driveline, but you need to logically diagnose the problem so you do not cause more problems.
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Re: 154 transmission

Postby BigBill » Thu Nov 10, 2011 9:58 pm

Flywheel brake is too tight or something is broke or out of adjustment.

While its open check the tranny forks for being loose on the guide rods. If they are the fix is to tighten them up so there square and even then pack the tranny with old welding gloves to catch most of the weld splatter and weld the top of the forks. There are some pics of how to do it here somewhere. Bill
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Re: 154 transmission

Postby RaymondDurban » Thu Nov 10, 2011 10:32 pm

BigBill wrote:Flywheel brake is too tight or something is broke or out of adjustment.

While its open check the tranny forks for being loose on the guide rods. If they are the fix is to tighten them up so there square and even then pack the tranny with old welding gloves to catch most of the weld splatter and weld the top of the forks. There are some pics of how to do it here somewhere. Bill


While I agree that the bolt that puts tension on the flywheel brake is probably too tight and is not releasing when the clutch is released, I do not recommend that you weld over an open transmission, even with the packing of gloves in there. It is much too easy to remove the forks and rails and work on them separately than to take a chance of damaging gears, bearings and possibly starting a fire from igniting petroleum products inside the case. If you do find that the shifter forks are broke, replace them with known good ones, or remove them before you fire up the welder.
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Re: 154 transmission

Postby BigBill » Fri Nov 11, 2011 12:39 pm

I packed it really tight with old welding gloves and nothing went thru into the tranny. I would never take a chance on hurting it in that way.

The open section on the fork where the bolt clamps seems to come loose on every IH tranny wehter its an int154, fcub or cub cadet. They must rock on that open tang. Most of the tractors I have are welded up already. Once you tighten up the bolt and the forks are lined up in neutral then its tac welded so they can't rock loose. I'm sure there are pics of this being done in the photo section.

For the oil to actually flash/fire it has to be at or near its flash point or hot. The machine is cold when this operation is done very carefully withy 5/32" rod and low amperage.
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Re: 154 transmission

Postby RaymondDurban » Fri Nov 11, 2011 1:03 pm

BigBill wrote:I packed it really tight with old welding gloves and nothing went thru into the tranny. I would never take a chance on hurting it in that way.........
For the oil to actually flash/fire it has to be at or near its flash point or hot. The machine is cold when this operation is done very carefully withy 5/32" rod and low amperage.


But you are taking a chance. I'm not saying it can't be done, but you are taking a great chance that metal and slag will fall into the tranny, both while you are welding, or when you remove the gloves after welding. I agree that normal transmission oil must be hot to ignite, but being that you have no idea what I put in my transmission at one time or another, or any of the other transmissions that belong to members that may be reading this thread.

If you have done it and got away with it, good for you, but I will not be doing this with any of my tractors, and would not recommend that anyone else do this either. As I mentioned above, it is much too easy to remove the forks and rails and completely eliminate any problems that may arise, seen or unforeseen.
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Re: 154 transmission

Postby BigBill » Sat Nov 12, 2011 4:03 pm

I wonder how many of these forks were welded in the past with not covering the gears up. This subject has been talked about many times with pics. I think so far every tranny i have opened up by removing the shifter cover on the fcub, the int154 and the cadets has been welded already. Bill

The very first sign of a loose 1st & rev fork is it pops out of reverse. If we continue to drive it it will start losing 1st gear too when we try to engage it. Both directions 1st and rev will be harder to engage but they both will pop out of gear towards the end of using the machine. You will see the gap between the fork body and the bent fork tang that wraps around the shifter guide rod. There will be a gap where the ears of the clampo go between the lower fork body, in this area after the fork is tightened up and aligned we need to tac weld it. How you do it is up to you.

I also forget to mention i have one of those $600 electronic welding helmets too so i can see where the welding rod is going right before the arc starts. That helps too so we don't hit anything eles in the process. This helmet is awesome in tighter areas too. I belioeve its a hornell helmet and i been using it ever since they were first offered. This latest solar version even charges the battery in the helmet from the arc glow. Besides having adjustable shades and timing on how fast it darkens. Everything is computerized now.
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