Is my wiring correct?

[Joey]

I posted recently about a 12 volt conversion I did on my 52 cub. The tractor started immediately, but I noticed that it had no oil pressure on the gauge and the ammeter didn't move. I primed the oil pump as recommended through the oil filter reservoir, cranked the tractor (disconnected the spark plug) and got oil flowing into the reservoir. I replaced the oil pressure gauge with another one I had, just to be sure. However, the ammeter still hasn't moved. I've inserted a diagram of the wiring schematic of my cub. Would y'all please take a look at the diagram and tell me if the wiring is correct? The leads on the ammeter were switched when I installed the alternator (Hitachi 14231 one wire) and the battery cables were switched to negative ground.

[Yogie]

I posted recently about a 12 volt conversion I did on my 52 cub. The tractor started immediately, but I noticed that it had no oil pressure on the gauge and the ammeter didn't move. I primed the oil pump as recommended through the oil filter reservoir, cranked the tractor (disconnected the spark plug) and got oil flowing into the reservoir. I replaced the oil pressure gauge with another one I had, just to be sure. However, the ammeter still hasn't moved. I've inserted a diagram of the wiring schematic of my cub. Would y'all please take a look at the diagram and tell me if the wiring is correct? The leads on the ammeter were switched when I installed the alternator (Hitachi 14231 one wire) and the battery cables were switched to negative ground.

Joey, the wire from the key switch and the starter should be together on the outside post of the amp gauge.
the wire running from the alt should go alone on the inside post of the amp gauge.

[Eugene]

Wiring diagram will work.

Volt (multimeter) across the battery terminals. Take a reading with the engine not running. Again with the engine running.

Voltage increase/charging - bad amp meter.

No voltage change. Engine off. Start at the terminal on the starter working to the alternator - checking for battery voltage. Could be an open - broken wire - bad connection - open appliance (amp meter). If you have battery voltage at the connection on the alternator - - alternator problem.

[RaymondDurban]

Joey, the wire from the key switch and the starter should be together on the outside post of the amp gauge. the wire running from the alt should go alone on the inside post of the amp gauge.

Yogie, I'm thinking what he has is good. If the key switch and starter were on the same lug, you wouldnt know when the coil is drawing juice.
Does the gauge ever move? When you turn the ignition on, does it show a discharge? It should. Take a voltmeter and take some readings: Battery while ignition off, battery ignition on, battery while engine running, and directly on the alternator lug while engine running.

Edit: Eugene Is a faster typer, follow his problem flow steps

[Joey]

I had a friend come with me to check the voltage with his battery tester (?) and, according to him, it showed that the alternator wasn't putting out because the tester showed 12 volts while running and it should show 14 volts. I'm not up to speed on electronics and testing instruments, but am willing to learn. I'll try to get some readings tomorrow and report back.

[Bigdog]

Your wiring is fine and should work the way it is. If the alternator is not increasing the voltage reading at the battery when running the system is not charging. Some of the one wire alternators need an initial "rev" of the engine to start charging. If this does not start it charging you probably have an alternator problem.

[Eugene]

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Mainte ... 014231.htm

Question. What does the back side of the alternator look like? Does it have 3 wire terminals - one screw type for the battery wire and two spade terminals?

Just thinking. The Delco 10SI was called a "one wire alternator". True, but needs high engine rpms to self excite - or be energized/excited upon engine start up with an additional wire to one of the terminals on the back of the alternator.

Edit: http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m46/ ... _22_08.gif

Above is the typical wiring diagram for a one wire alternator. Some recently available alternators are true one wire - needing only the battery wire.

[Joey]

The Hitachi 14231 that I bought from O'Reilly's has only one post in the back. I didn't see any other type of connections.

I remember reading something about someone on the board wiring their cub with a pushbutton on the dash that would energize the alternator. Is that something I may need to do here?

[Bigdog]

You would not need that. Your single connection alternator should self excite but you may need to get the rpm's up to get it excited.

[Hengy]

you may need to get the rpm's up to get it excited.

Ain't that the truth! Don't we all get excited when the RPM's get high...

Mike in La Crosse, WI

[Joey]

OK, here goes......

Went this afternoon with another friend and a voltmeter to take measurements. Before cranking, had 12.52 volts at the battery. Had the same at all connections. Cranked the tractor and voltage went down to 12.32 - 12.34 volts. Checked all connections - coil, starter, distributor, alternator, etc. and got the same reading. Stopped the tractor and removed the wire from the alternator, recranked the tractor and checked the post of the alternator to see if it was putting out and got nothing. We even revved the engine up to see if it would self excite and kick out, but nothing.

Eugene, I was wrong about the back of the alternator. Looked closely and there is two spade connectors in the back lined up in a T. No connectors came with the alternator.

After priming the oil pump last night, we checked the pressure today when starting the tractor. I had swapped another gauge that was newer and the pressure read 10 lbs. Revved up the engine and it rose to 15 lbs. Kind of low, isn't it?

We started reading the instructions that came with the alternator (should of done that before, uh? ) and it said something about letting the car idle for 15 minutes, then rev it up to 2000 rpms and should get a reading between 13-14 volts. Is that necessary with the cub?

I'm open to suggestions.......

[RaymondDurban]

Oil pressure is ok.
Are the terminals labeled on the alternator? Check out this write up:
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Mainte ... 014231.htm

[Eugene]

I was wrong about the back of the alternator. Looked closely and there is two spade connectors in the back lined up in a T. No connectors came with the alternator.

You will need two more wires to get the alternator to operate correctly. Read completely through the following post and my two earlier posts on this topic.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=47016&hilit=hitachi&start=15

You will need to add a resistor to the igniton coil if it was previously a 6 volt system. Also note that there is a diode in the wire used to excite (start charging) the alternator.

There is a recently new Delco true single wire alternator available - just need the battery cable connection. Works great at slow tractor engine rpms.

[Boss Hog]

That is why I use the new Delco one wire it will charge with out revving the engine. I did a post on it.


Boss