Farmall 100, 1954 - 1973
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My 140 runs strong, but a little uneven. Not smooth like I am used to with my cub. I have a feeling my carb is to blame. It also needs a little choke to run and rev well.
I would like to rebuild my carb, but I am stumped. It is a Marvel Schebler carb and I am inclined to buy this kit - http://www.steinertractor.com/ABC220-economy-carburetor-repair-kit-marvel-schebler
The problem is, I can't find my carb model number in the list of applicable units to this kit. It is a model number TSX-864 and it isn't on the list.
I have Googled it and there is one other thread on another forum with a guy asking the same thing, and the other guys telling him there is no TSX-864. It is plain on the metal tag on ght carb, so I am sure that is the number.
I am thinking it was a replacement carburetor and not original to the tractor. Would I be better off getting an original equipment carb for this tractor? Can I just continue to use this carb and use this kit to rebuild it?
Thanks for the replies ahead of time.
The Steiner kit may work, may not. Had the same problem finding the correct Marvel Schebler kit for a WC Allis. First kit I ordered, suppose to fit, didn't. Finally bought a kit from: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/
Some light reading Page 7 (S-11): http://l-36.com/carb.pdf
I have an excuse. CRS.
I have never had much luck with the Marvel Schebler Carburetor, they are very hard to adjust to a smooth idle. If it were me I would look at buying one of the zenith carbs that could be rebuilt, they have been very good for me.
Well, I spoke with the guy from the carburetor shop and he said that I could have made a mistake and read the wrong number on the tag, or it could be a miltary carburetor that doesn't show up in the production numbers.
If I am right about the number (which I think I am) I guess I have two options:
1) I can try and clean the carb I have the best I can and try to get it running smoothly.
2) I can get a different carb and rebuild it.
I will try to clean it this weekend and go from there. If it smooths out, that is great, if not, I have some thinking to do.
Question - If I do go with a Zenith, can I use the same choke rods and throttle control rods, or will I have to scavenge some off of a tractor that had a Zenith carb?
Before you go pulling the carb off, try some carb cleaner sprayed into the throat while the tractor is running at a high idle. Seafoam makes a product called Deep Creep that is perfect for the task. Read the instructions on the can.
MD, Deep Creek Lake
"1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
1951 Farmall Super C w/FH
I just spent a few minutes on Messick's website. I can't find a carburetor under their 140 parts. They do list choke and throttle parts for tractors equipped with and without foot pedal accelerators. I didn't take the time to compare part #'s between the two.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
To a large extent, a Marvel TSX is a Marvel TSX. A lot of basic kits aren't much more than a set of gaskets. If not identical, they are probably close enough. Either get a kit that is listed for the 140 or get one for a TSX-8xx where xx is as close as you can find to 64. If you get a new bowl gasket, check it against the old one. You may need to punch an extra hole here or there to make it work. Float valves probably are the same. If not, make sure you set the float level. If any other new parts don't match the old, reuse the old ones.
If you do need to change to another carb, just be sure to get one that is listed for the 140. The linkage should all be the same even if the carb is a different brand.
The latest TSX that I reworked, I picked up a kit from NAPA. It seems that they cover most TSX carbs. with a single kit. I would follow Jim's advice and just get as close as you can on the model number. A lot of these carbs. are the same internally, with the different model numbers pertaining to linkage arrangement, fuel inlet location and style of main jet adjustment.
OK, I bought a kit from NAPA and started the rebuild. It is really dirty as you might have suspected.
I also bought a gallon can of that carb cleaner with the basket from NAPA and it isn't the same stuff as you get in the spray cans. It is clear and thick - a little more viscous than water.
I have the carb disassembled and should have it together again today after work.
OK, I got the carb back on the tractor and it runs well. There isn't any adjustment in the carb except for low idle speed and idle mixture, so I think it is tuned in as well as it can be.
There is definitely some more stuff that can be done to make it run better, but it is getting there.
10 posts • Page 1 of 1
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