Sickle Bar Mower - Guard Bolt Question

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Sickle Bar Mower - Guard Bolt Question

Postby C. Amick » Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:28 pm

Did IH change the sickle bar at some point? My guard bolt holes are counter sunk on top and the bolt heads are on top. The nuts on the bottom of the guards are thin. My dad's sickle bar has all the guard bolt nuts on top. Did my dad just change it? It doesn't look like the bolt holes are counter sunk on top. I didn't pull a guard off to make sure.
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Re: Sickle Bar Mower - Guard Bolt Question

Postby Former Member » Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:33 pm

The nuts should go on the top, according to this picture in the manual.
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Re: Sickle Bar Mower - Guard Bolt Question

Postby Jim Becker » Mon Jan 30, 2012 4:26 pm

On old cutter bars the bolts went down through. Later they were reversed. The nuts on the bottom would wear and become hard to remove. IH made some special washers to fill the countersinks on the cutter bars when you changed to the newer guards.
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Re: Sickle Bar Mower - Guard Bolt Question

Postby C. Amick » Tue Jan 31, 2012 2:25 pm

Thanks, My dad's cutter bar must be newer than the one I have. His tractor is a 1949 model, but it came with a 4.5 ft. cutter bar and I know he upgraded later to a 5.0ft. bar. My tractor is a 1952 model. I would rather have the nuts on top. Maybe I can just stick a lock washer in the countersunk holes on top and add a nut.
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Re: Sickle Bar Mower - Guard Bolt Question

Postby Jim Becker » Tue Jan 31, 2012 2:47 pm

I don't remember just how big the countersink is relative to the size of a lock washer. If the washer gets some bite up on the flat part of the bar, it should work. I would just make sure they were tight and check them frequently for a while to make sure they stay tight.

Keep in mind that reversing the bolt also required a change to the bottom side of the guard. It went from a flat bottom to a countersunk bottom. If you don't have a guard with a countersink, the bolt will have to go down through.
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