Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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12 posts • Page 1 of 1
Hi all, I originally introduced myself a couple of months back. Up in SW Washington farming on 2 acres and trying to get more efficient with the purchase of the cub. It most likely needs work although the crank start works every time so far. The manual is definitely not original, looks like an IH manual that is a reference for all farmall tractors, referencing appropriate sections by paragraph numbers. It came with a Cub-3 spring tooth field cultivator and original manual, Cub-193 moldboard plow and original manual, Leveling and Grading blade, Two sickle-bars (one for parts), and a Cub 23-A disc harrow and original manual (broken "bracket" between the front and rear gangs, needs welding).
I'm definitely a novice in working on tractors and mechanically in general but I've been navigating a bit around the site and I have no doubt that someone on this forum with have an answer when I get stuck. Ironically, given all the implements it came with, I am hoping to use this tractor mostly as a cultivator once plants are in the ground so I will most likely be looking for Cub-144 cultivators. Would I be able to attach disc hillers to this unit for hilling potatoes?
Took it out for a spin over last weekend to work through all the speeds. At first I was able to control the speed but after a few minutes the speed control lever just kept springing forward and it remained at top speed through each gear. Also noticed that the hydraulics looked like they were "skipping" or "knocking" not sure what the correct term is, either way they weren't staying in place, whether in the up or down position (no implment attached).
More to come I'm sure. Looking forward to cleaning her up over the winter and having her ready to go for '13 growing season. Hope your seasons are going well.
Jason, Welcome to the Forum. Check the "teeth" on the throttle quadrant. If they are rounded and worn, or if the lever edge is, the lever will slip past where you want it. If so, a new one can be purchased from TM Tractor, or you attempt to sharpen the teeth with a triangular file or thin grinding disc. As for the hydraulics, first check the oil dipstick. It the level is high on it, it means hydraulic fluid is leaking into the oil pan and the shaft seal on the hydraulic pump needs to be replaced. If that looks okay, remove the large fill plug near the top rear of the hydraulic block and check the level. It should be just about even with the bottom of the fill hole. If it is low, get some Case/IH HyTran hydraulic fluid (or equivalent) and fill the block until it just starts to run out. You may have to purge air by cycling the lever forward and back 10-12 times. Check those areas and let us know what you found.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
disc hillers are made for the front of the 144 cultivator. The straighter your rows the easier they are to cultivate and hill. Print off the 144 manual and that will help a lot. Your tractor must already have the lifting link/rod between the front and rear rockshaft if you have rear implements.
I've never heard anyone having a speed control lever that slips to high speed. The notches in the quadrant are designed to keep the lever from falling back. Sounds as if something is binding either in the linkage between the lever and the governor or the governor and the carb.
Eddie - a 1959 International Lo-Boy named after my father in law, who who bought her new.
Like Mike said, check this rod, it can sometimes be bent and mangled and catching up on something, check that this rod is moving properly through the retainer clip on top of the cylinder head, or if this clip is even installed....
A defective governor can cause the engine to race. Might have stuck weights in it. Ed
50 ,52,53,56,59 F Cubs, 55,55,57,63,63 fast hitch, 64 lo-boys, 71 154, 184 lo-boy,61 cadet original. IH spreader,IH corn grinder, Oli. OC3 ,AC D10 ,IH 444 , Potato digger, wagner ldr 3 power units.
Here is the rod, if the bends do not look similar yours may need some work:
Here is the retainer clip that should be on top of the cylinder head that this rod goes through:
For reference the retainer clip should be mounted in the smaller threaded hole above the casting code stamp in this photo:
Thank you for the replies. I managed to get the throttle working and put the cub to work this fall cultipacking in cover crop. I've got it indoors now and plan on taking a look at the shaft seal and hydraulic levels as Bob McCarty suggested. Wondering what I should be looking to pay for a set of 144 cultivators. Thanks again for the replies.
The answer to your question is yupper Here is the manual - Cub-144 Cultivator 11-30-50
You can use the disc hillers as shown below :
or you can use the mold board hillers :
I am more used to the mold board hillers as we plant without opening a row, we lay out with the tractor tires, fertilize and then plant taters. We use the mold boards to bring up the hill. Different practices in different regions.
When you go to get your 144, print off a copy of the manual so you can make sure all the parts you need are with it. I have found that when I was told I had a complete cultivator it meant I had the complete Universal Mounting Frame and the Spring Teeth. I did not get the guards nor the hillers. I ended up spending almost as much to get the guards, mold board and off-set disc hillers for the 144. I then found a set of the straight shank disc hillers
We use are cub on our farm for everything from making raised beds, hilling tators and cultivating etc
here we are making raised beds with the disc hillers. They are set out wide, pitching dirt just inside the rear wheels
Here is the tators post hilling
We flipped the rear tires and widened the front so we make 44" beds.
Hope this helps
12 posts • Page 1 of 1
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