One wire alternator

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rstoots
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One wire alternator

Postby rstoots » Fri Apr 07, 2017 2:31 pm

I just installed this alternator and would like to know if anyone has used it. The claim is you only need 1 wire going to battery.

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Re: One wire alternator

Postby staninlowerAL » Fri Apr 07, 2017 2:46 pm

Not enough information. There are alternators available that only need one wire, you may have one of those (or maybe not).

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Re: One wire alternator

Postby rstoots » Fri Apr 07, 2017 2:47 pm


Eugene
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Re: One wire alternator

Postby Eugene » Fri Apr 07, 2017 2:54 pm

Yes, short answer. I have two tractors with the single wire alternator.

Actually, you need the single wire from the alternator to go the amp gauge, then to the battery terminal on the top of the starter switch.

You may have to change some of the wiring on your tractor, power for the ignition and light switch, depends on the wiring diagram/schematic for your tractor.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: One wire alternator

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Apr 07, 2017 5:21 pm

The one thing you may need to pay attention to, some of the 1 wire alternators have to be run up to fairly high rpm to start charging. Once they start charging, the lower rpms are ok.
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Re: One wire alternator

Postby Eugene » Fri Apr 07, 2017 9:05 pm

I have a single wire Delco clone, 62 amps, installed in my standard Cub and one WD Allis. Set about 1/2 throttle for engine start up. Alternator starts charging as soon as the engine starts.

On the Delco single wire alternators, there is a very minimal battery drain. I'm assuming the battery drain keeps the alternator excited.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: One wire alternator

Postby Lt.Mike » Sat Apr 08, 2017 7:42 am

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:The one thing you may need to pay attention to, some of the 1 wire alternators have to be run up to fairly high rpm to start charging. Once they start charging, the lower rpms are ok.

Using an inline diode will trigger the alternator to charge at a lower rpm. My Cubs replacement alternator came with the diode. You could call that a two wire setup. (See the schematic below.

I don't believe my A has the diode and it works as you've said. Let the tractor warm up a little then rev it up say 3/4 throttle and the alt starts charging . Throttle down and the amp needle shows a little less but still charging.
It was done by the PO but I haven't changed it as it works fine.
Mike
This says for an M but it's the same.
Image
Other items to be swapped out to 12v use...
Coil w/internal or external resistor, lamp switch and bulbs, amp gauge, and battery (group 26r fits like a glove).
The 6v starter and distributor works fine with the 12v system.
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1952 Farmall Cub, Paula's Cub
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1946 International IA (Lil’Mule)
1946 International IA (#2)
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Re: One wire alternator

Postby staninlowerAL » Sat Apr 08, 2017 7:50 am

The above diagram is for a battery ignition. The one in question in this post is one wire alternator on a magneto system. So my answer to the last question is "depends". You can use a OEM battery ignition switch for the alternator and a separate kill switch for the magneto or an OEM magneto kill switch for the ignition and a separate "off/on" switch for the alternator. You are dealing with two completely separate electrical circuits.

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Re: One wire alternator

Postby Jim Becker » Sat Apr 08, 2017 10:43 am

You could use an oil pressure activated switch. It would need to be one that closes with pressure, not one that grounds with no pressure. The right type is used with electric fuel pumps, brake lights, hour meters, etc. but not with most oil pressure warning lights.

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Re: One wire alternator

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sat Apr 08, 2017 11:02 am

Rather than 2 switches if using a 2 wire alternator and a magneto, a DP DT double pole double, throw switch could be used that one pole provided power to the alternator when on, and the other pole provided ground to magneto when off. If you wanted to keep the dash looking original you could use a DPDT relay that was operated by the switch.
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Re: One wire alternator

Postby rstoots » Sat Apr 08, 2017 11:28 am

Link to oil pressure and dpdt switch.

I am really confused as to what the wiring diagram should look like. I have the 1947 diagram, can you provide a diagram for my system?

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Re: One wire alternator

Postby Eugene » Sat Apr 08, 2017 3:53 pm

rstoots wrote:I am really confused as to what the wiring diagram should look like. I have the 1947 diagram, can you provide a diagram for my system?
Since you have a magneto, eliminate wire #1 on the alternator all the way back to the amp switch and to the battery powered ignition system. Eliminate wire #2 from the alternator.

You can or should also eliminate the small wire(s) leading to and from the voltage regulator/cutout. You can use, keep, the heavy wire leading to the B terminal on the cutout/regulator, providing it's in good condition, as the wire feeding the amp gauge.

I'm using the 62 amp Delco clones, true one wire alternators. I looked at the link provided for the 35 amp alternator. The link says it's a one wire alternator, but the back side of the alternator shows connections for terminals #1 and #2. I would install and wire it up as a one wire alternator.

Tip. Keep your generator until you have the new alternator installed. On my 1 wire alternator installations, I had to install the pulley from the generator on the alternator. The generator pulley matches the tractors belt size.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: One wire alternator

Postby rstoots » Fri Apr 14, 2017 10:10 am

Got tractor back together and ammeter shows a charge. Do I need a switch to prevent battery discharge? I don't use tractor much so it sits for long periods.

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Re: One wire alternator

Postby Eugene » Fri Apr 14, 2017 4:38 pm

rstoots wrote: Do I need a switch to prevent battery discharge? I don't use tractor much so it sits for long periods.
No. The single wire alternator amp draw with the engine not running is around .005 amps. A battery will self deplete at around 3% per month.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: One wire alternator

Postby rstoots » Fri Apr 14, 2017 5:51 pm

Thanks, looks like I'm good to go on that one. Now to split tractor to fix shifting issues. Will split this weekend.


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