clutch adj, clutch brake adj, throughout bearing, and gear grinding

[deckeda]

I read in a thread here that if the clutch brake isn't braking the clutch, the flywheel won't slow down fast enough to engage a gear since the trans isn't a synchro design.

So I'll check that, since that's the symptom: won't go into gear without grinding. Or won't go into gear at all.

On the other hand, I've adjusted the clutch rod all the way to sometimes eliminate the problem. But I'm out of adjustment there, and would need a longer clutch adjusting rod to get the clutch fingers to move more.

Or is that a bad throwout bearing, if it won't push against the clutch enough? Clutch doesn't slip and tractor pulls OK.

Bonus question: the manual says to remove the cotter key and rod end pin when adjusting the engine clutch. I don't understand how that helps anything, to have the clutch adjusting rod flopping around disconnected on that end when trying to adjust it.

[Eugene]

On the back side of the clutch pressure plate is a bracket with two pucks. The pucks are what stops the pressure plate from turning when you depress the clutch pedal. You need to adjust the bracket and or order two new pucks.

[seahaul]

The "bonus question" refers to removing the pin for the clutch brake so that when you adjust the clutch, you're not fighting against the clutch brake also. After adjusting the clutch correctly, then go back and adjust the clutch brake to get the flywheel to stop properly.
If the clutch rod is adjusted all the way out, probably need a new throw-out bearing.

[deckeda]

Good insight, thanks.

Is there a way to inspect the throwout bearing prior to removal? Or would a visual inspection afterwards show anything? My father-in-law won't buy the part unless he can see it's worn, I don't think.

As far as I know, the throwout bearing doesn't make noise and we lubed it yesterday.

The clutch adjustment rod was already near the end of its travel when the shifting problem was noticed (tractor doesn't get used much). We adjusted the rod a tiny about, about 1/8" and it seemed to do the trick.

Had to adjust it again a few times later that day however, and now the lock nut on the engine-side of the adjusting yoke is only on by a couple threads.

But for today we'll get that clutch brake looked at first.

[deckeda]

small update

I looked at the clutch brake but couldn't easily identify the brake pucks/shoes. Wasn't sure if I was seeing down into the right gap area. Nevertheless, when depressing the clutch and waiting a few seconds longer than previously, there was no grinding when moving the shift lever even if it didn't always slide easily into gear.

But I did notice that often when just sitting there idling, that the driveshaft wobbled quite a bit. So I'm brought back to my question yesterday: Is there a way to inspect the throwout bearing prior to removal? Or would a visual inspection afterwards show anything?

For that matter, can anyone tell me what's involved in replacing that bearing? I've never done that before. Thanks again.

[Eugene]

Obtain the service manual and the parts manual for the tractor. They will tell help you identify the parts and location. Also provide measurements for the correct adjustment of the clutch linkage.

Search this site for throw out bearings. Lots of photos.

Also this site, using the search function, provides instructions on replacing the throw out bearing.

[deckeda]

I found the parts PDF here, thanks. I searched for the bearing here earlier but didn't see anything relevant to what I want to know. Perhaps there's a service manual for another, related tractor but I don't know anything about what's related.

[Eugene]

The drive line bearings and bushings are in Group 7 of the parts manual.

The pucks to stop the flywheel are listed as "Lining Assy, Brake", Group 7 parts manual.

Have you removed the cover/panel located in front of the operator's seat?

[mozer71]

That is a Must. I was flying blind but the driveshaft would shift forward after the processes described. The throw out bearing housing was in my hand and it was shot. Stuff happens when it is important to get it together. My Dalton lathe and I turned a sleeve and faced a few things but that was 15 years ago. I have no pix to confirm that happened but it has thrust bearing from some truck. I didn't think it would last that long but it is like a lot of things of a Farmall or the 154. They just keep going if they are fed right. That means proper fuel with lead-substitute as the lungs. The engine is the heart with its valves right and oil is the blood. It must excrete evenly during its cycles for the blood/oil to flow.
Many understood this over time and kept them. Many have passed now and many realized that it was/C60 a sturdy little engine which we not see manufactured again. No way possible but it made sense then and grass and weeds are the same.

[mozer71]

Blowviation continued. History of busted shot mower tractors. Every one a weak link when running hi rpm. All these air-cooled get clogged up and the mice love that. I/we can read about mouse parts being eventually blown out of engines. It wasn't good for the valves either. The Number series is rather compact to prevent rodent penetration. I will state that the C60 doesn't use much more fuel than larger air-cooled engines.

[BigBill]

With the clutch pedal up all the way.

Adjust the pucks with a .010” gap between the pucks and flywheel. At the same time adjust the throwout bearing with a .090” gap between the clutch fingers and throwout bearing.

[mozer71]

Extreme good advise. Thanks BigBill .