154 won't start.

[Megoto]

Hey guys, it's been awhile since my last post. I have run into a problem and can't seem to find the answer. I've been going through all the posts I can find and can't seem to figure it out. So the last time it was running my wife was mowing the lawn. She was having problems with it at full throttle and with the mower deck running. It sounded like the governor was having issues. I took it off and cleaned the internals witch it needed badly. Got everything all cleaned up and reinstalled and when I went to start her up nothing. Engine turns over fine but will not start. Checked the plugs for spark and they are all firing. Double checked the distributor position and it is where it is supposed to be. Sprayed starter fluid into intake and nothing happened. So I am at a loss. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you

[staninlowerAL]

If all you did was remove, clean and reinstall the governor my guess is it is now out of time. Easy to do. Check #1 piston at TDC on compression stroke, rotor should be pointed to #1 plug wire tower and the timing mark on the crank pulley should be aligned with the pointer indicator. You could also check the timing with a timing light connected to #1 plug wire.

[Bigdog]

I'd agree - out of time.

[Larry B]

Hey guys, it's been awhile since my last post. I have run into a problem and can't seem to find the answer. I've been going through all the posts I can find and can't seem to figure it out. So the last time it was running my wife was mowing the lawn. She was having problems with it at full throttle and with the mower deck running. It sounded like the governor was having issues. I took it off and cleaned the internals witch it needed badly. Got everything all cleaned up and reinstalled and when I went to start her up nothing. Engine turns over fine but will not start. Checked the plugs for spark and they are all firing. Double checked the distributor position and it is where it is supposed to be. Sprayed starter fluid into intake and nothing happened. So I am at a loss. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you

I agree thar it sounds like a timing issue. Here is my method.
remove distributor
place engine with no. 1 cylinder at TDC on compression stroke. Taking out all the plugs makes it easy turn engine by hand and feel for compression on no.1 cylinder.
Install distributor with rotor contact at approx 1 o'clock position and the terminal on the side of the distributor at the 2 o'clock position. Connect wire from distributor to coil
Connect a voltmeter or a 12v test light to the terminal on the side of the distributor and ground and turn key to on.
If you have battery voltage at the meter or the test light is on the points are open. If near zero volts or light is off the points are closed.
You want to start with points closed. If you have battery voltage at the meter SLOWLY rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the meter shows near zero volts then turn it just a little more. Then VERY SLOWLY rotate the distributor housing clockwise until the meter shows battery voltage or the test light comes on.
Tighten the 2 distributor hold down clamps
install distributor cap and wires with no.1 plug wire at the 1 o'clock position on the cap
engine should be static timed at 0 degrees BTDC it should start.

[Eugene]

Well actually, the ignition fires when the points first open, not when they first close.

There is a video on static timing the engine on this site. It would be good to review the video a couple of times.

Another consideration is where the points rubbing block is positioned in relationship to the high point of the distributor cam. You need to be on the clockwise side of the cam point to static time the engine.

It may take several tries to correctly position the distributor, prior to static timing the engine.

[Larry B]

Well actually, the ignition fires when the points first open, not when they first close.


It may take several tries to correctly position the distributor, prior to static timing the engine.

Yes the ignition fires when the points open. In my procedure when I say turn the distributor clockwise till the meter reads battery voltage or the rest light comes on that is when the points open not close. You are reading across the points so when they are open you read voltage. When they are closed you will read little or no voltage. It can also tell you the condition of the points. If you read more than about a quarter volt when they are closed the points are probably pitted or dirty.

[zebzeb]

Hello Eugene, My 1947 cub quit in the yard about three weeks ago and would not start. I checked everything i could and nothing worked. I traced the wire from the mag. back to the kill switch and found it had frayed and was rubbing on the eng. block. I took the wire off the mag. and she started right up. This may be your problem.

[staninlowerAL]

Hello Eugene, My 1947 cub quit in the yard about three weeks ago and would not start. I checked everything i could and nothing worked. I traced the wire from the mag. back to the kill switch and found it had frayed and was rubbing on the eng. block. I took the wire off the mag. and she started right up. This may be your problem.

Battery ignition system, initial post says the plugs are firing.

[Megoto]

Thanks for all the help guys. I have it all timed properly now and she cranks right up. Now I have a new problem when I put the throttle to max she picks right up without issue but dies after a minute or two. I can start her right back up so I am stumped again. It acts like the gas just shuts off. I have gone through the fuel system looking for obstructions and rebuilt the carburetor. I didn't find any obstructions or deformed apertures.

[Bob McCarty]

Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the carb, open the shut off and see if you have a pencil thick steady stream for several cupfuls of gas. If not, there is still a fuel restriction.

[Megoto]

ok checked for gas and there is plenty of fuel. Nice steady stream. I managed to keep it running for a while but only with full choke.

[staninlowerAL]

IH or Zenith carb? Either one, sounds like the main jet needs cleaning if you have a full fuel flow and need choke to keep it running. Carb cleaner, small soft wire (to rod out the jet), compressed air, should do the job.

[Megoto]

It's an IH carb and I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks for the help

[staninlowerAL]

You should be able to remove the main jet without removing the carb from the intake manifold.

[Megoto]

I had it off today to see if it was clogged but didn't clean it. I did blow it out with my air compressor though