Farmall M, Super M, 400, 450 & 560 Tractors, 1939-1963
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14 posts • Page 1 of 1
theres a farmall super m fianlly in my barn it needs some work but i am excited about getting to bush hog around my place. is there any where online where i can get info for the m for maintenane? I figure i should ask here first!.
ps Theres a custom made 3 pt hitch on it , would any body be interested in plans/pics of it?
John, congrats on the super M! I don't know of a site dedicated specifically for them but I would think that the Red Power forum would be a good place to start.
I can see why smaller tractors are selling better. This M is a big tractor and its a pain in the rear to get shipped anywhere! this one was loaded on a large flatbed tow truck from PA. (9' wide bed) Well so far i havent found anything good yet for the maintenance, I guess Rudis site has spoiled me. I will check out red power after work.
Yep, nothing out there that's as dedicated as Rudi's site for any other tractor that I know of. You're just gonna have to break down and buy the manuals for it from binderbooks.com, or ebay.
Really, there are no surprises as far as maintenance. It's just like a big Cub as far as that goes.
Damn, i was hoping i wouldnt have to get the books. the ones i bought for the cub were overpriced in my opinion, expect for the shop manual. I will be changing the oil today, and i was wondering if the place to add new oil is at the right front and is connected to the distributor.
John, the cap resembles a huge wingnut on the right front. Just spin it off and that's where you add the oil.
Case IH has all the manuals. You'll have to order them up. I can't remember the price but its either that or take you chances on Epay.
Re: the manuals - I have always found them to be a wise and justified investment. They will save you more than their cost over time.
John, you mentioned changing the oil today. If you have presumably an old M original engine you've just entered the great debate zone about which oil to use. Old tractors spent most or all of their life running on non-detergent oil (sludge city) is most likely what you'll find. When you remove the filter cap you'll know if your engine is heavily sludged. Some say contiue with the non-detergent, others say switch to detergent. I don't have an answer either way but you will need to decide how your going to operate from this point further. Fully de-sludging may not ocurr until rebuild if its real bad. If this tractor has sat a long time with heavy sludge be on the lookout for trouble. Oil passages could be plugged. Just a heads up.
Bill, I will be going with 30 wt oil for right now, the tractor hasnt been started in 4 years or so. The engine was rebuilt and i didnt notice any sludge build up like i found in my cub. I have started using synthetic oil in the cub for the past year and i have noticed better starts and much less oil smoke comming from the breather. My neighbor has an IT shop manual so i hope it will be of some use, and i wholly agree with you BD about the investment of the manuals. I like this M alot its such a monster compared to my cub
Lot of good information on Farmalls and several knowledgeable posters.
If it were my tractor I'd pull the oil pan and the valve cover and see what I had. If the tractor has been switched to detergenated oil in the past couple (or ten) years the filter assembly could appear "clean". But as I found on my 350 a massive deposit could be waiting in the oil pan for you. Pulling the valve cover give you a chance to see if there are any deposits up top and you can reset the valve lash.
Freedom is for those that claim it.
Hey John...I owned a 1946 McCormick-Deering Farmall "M" for years and did a lot of work on it. I agree that the VERY FIRST thing you need to do is drop the oil pan and give it a thorough cleaning...be sure to clean the the screen on the oil pick-up Flowto. It actualy sucks up the oil from the top of the oil pan so all heavier debris sinks to the bottom of the pan. Replace the oil filter too, as well as the pan gasket. BEST WISHES for you and your NEW Farmall Super "M".
Last edited by 'Country' Elliott on Sun Oct 30, 2005 4:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Thanks for the kinds words, they are appreciated, both by the generous members of our community who have supplied many of the manuals, and by me too....
Gonna reiterate about the manuals on the server. They were never meant to replace or negate the need to ACTUALLY BUY a manual. They are there for the edification of our fellow Cubbers, and as a resource in determining which particular manual one might want or need.
It has always been my expectation that everyone would actually buy the manuals (usually as they can afford them) in a suitable time frame. Otherwise, BB might get upset a tad, and I don't want that....
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship
"Before beginning a hunt, it is wise to ask someone what you are looking for before you begin looking for it." - Winnie
Cub Manual Server
The best place to get manuals and parts books is Binder Books .com.
They have all original covers and clear pages. All of the other ones I have seen are reproduced by photo copy and are not clear.
Binder uses all original books for there copies.
An M parts book will run 25.00 to 30.00.
The ones you get from Case-IH are also photo copies.
14 posts • Page 1 of 1
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