154 Engine rebuild
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154 Engine rebuild
Looking at a "decent" 154. It's currently running (guy sent video) and has decent oil pressure but has some pretty bad blowby (he admits it is WORSE then the video shows). I'm not overly familar with flat head engines or a Cub engine in particular. What kind of costs am I looking at to re ring and possible have the head over hauled? I plan on pulling the engine apart myself with a little help assembling from a person more "in the know". A basic rebuilders kit out there?
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Main thing I'm looking at is worst case (except a cracked block or head) what I'm looking at for is a cost I can factor in when we talk price on this unit. I don't want to assume the rebuild kit costs $400 and find its actually $800. With any luck I might find its only a head gasket.
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dhermesc wrote:Main thing I'm looking at is worst case (except a cracked block or head) what I'm looking at for is a cost I can factor in when we talk price on this unit. I don't want to assume the rebuild kit costs $400 and find its actually $800. With any luck I might find its only a head gasket.
Lets see worst case.
Have to bore block, new Pistions , redo valves & seats ,posiable valve guides + extras over $800.00 all this depends where you buy & or corse where work is done(boring)
Where I live it is $65.00 a hole X 4 = $260.00 for a good job of just boring over size does not include any parts.
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You need to disassemble the engine and measure each part. Once you have that information you can then start to price the total repair costs.
I'm currently working on a NOS block which contained new pistons and rings. So far I have an additional $200 in the rebuild. New valves, mains, full gasket set. Rod bearings, pending delivery. Pilot bearing and throwout bearing to order.
My guess is that this engine will cost pretty close to $800.00 in parts, including the NOS block. No labor cost.
If you don't have one get a catalog from Valu-Bilt. http://www.valu-bilt.com Excellent reference and you will have a general pricing guide when purchasing parts.
Eugene
I'm currently working on a NOS block which contained new pistons and rings. So far I have an additional $200 in the rebuild. New valves, mains, full gasket set. Rod bearings, pending delivery. Pilot bearing and throwout bearing to order.
My guess is that this engine will cost pretty close to $800.00 in parts, including the NOS block. No labor cost.
If you don't have one get a catalog from Valu-Bilt. http://www.valu-bilt.com Excellent reference and you will have a general pricing guide when purchasing parts.
Eugene
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Another idea... there are a few guys putting loaders on their Cubs. Just wait long enough for them to break the ears on their engines and have to replace them. Then you should be able to buy an otherwise good block cheap and put it in the 154. Since the 154 has a frame the engine front ears don't have to be structural, so a weld job should be fine. Patience is a virtue!
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dhermesc, one thing no one has mentioned, and I asume you don't know is that cub engines are not sleeved, they have to be bored if they are badly worn. doing the tear down and reassembly yourself you can expect machine shop work and parts to be $500 to $00 or a little more dependingon rates in your area.
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Re: 154 Engine rebuild
Just did a complete C-60 rebuild. $750 parts, $750 machine work. appx., of course.
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Re: 154 Engine rebuild
Don't be confused by what some here have done...meaning overhaul vs rebuild............rebuild in the industry is when machine work/boring...ect ect is done, I did a complete rebuild and I mean complete......all new valves, valve job/new seats, bored, new crank, head shaved, new gaskets and various other internal things that needed replacing such as a bushing on the idler gear and when I was done the cost was between 2500 and 3000..........My rebuild was probably more complete than 99 percent of those on here and let me tell you, it was well worth it not to cut corners. I first 2 years previous had done a overhaul = new rings and bearings and hone cyl.......it didn't last........the tractor now with the full rebuild is going 2 seasons strong and has full power and mows and blows snow (3ft of it) like no other!! 

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Re: 154 Engine rebuild
I just wouldn't bet on that.mastercraft wrote:My rebuild was probably more complete than 99 percent of those on here.
Thanks for bringing up this topic. It's been just under 11 years since I put together my standard Cub's engine. Still running strong.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: 154 Engine rebuild
oh I would........that's just the short list of things done. I don't give up all my secrets to what's been done so it exceeds factory specEugene wrote:I just wouldn't bet on that.mastercraft wrote:My rebuild was probably more complete than 99 percent of those on here.
Thanks for bringing up this topic. It's been just under 11 years since I put together my standard Cub's engine. Still running strong.


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Re: 154 Engine rebuild
I found some leads for machine services here http://www.aera.org/ AERA Engine Builders Association there is a member locator. I also asked my auto mechanic who he used for engine machining and he sent me to the local NAPA store.
The cost of the rebuild will depend on: what is found when it is opened up, your goals and how much work you are confident you can do yourself.
Goal1) Reduce smoke and get a reliable tractor - one price.
Goal 2) soupped up and something good for tractor pulls another $$$$$ price.
To keep costs down you have to be disciplined and a fight "well while I am in this deep I should...." If you want a full blown rebuild / re manufacture do it up but that is a another price point.
A few things I would try before pulling the head
1) pour seafoam into the cylinder though the spark plug holes and let it sit for days. I would do this several times. Change the oil of course after. This should help loosen the rings if they are stuck.
2) adjust the valves. Make sure they are not stuck
3) do a wet /dry compression tests.
Then you will know where you stand.
The cost of the rebuild will depend on: what is found when it is opened up, your goals and how much work you are confident you can do yourself.
Goal1) Reduce smoke and get a reliable tractor - one price.
Goal 2) soupped up and something good for tractor pulls another $$$$$ price.
To keep costs down you have to be disciplined and a fight "well while I am in this deep I should...." If you want a full blown rebuild / re manufacture do it up but that is a another price point.
A few things I would try before pulling the head
1) pour seafoam into the cylinder though the spark plug holes and let it sit for days. I would do this several times. Change the oil of course after. This should help loosen the rings if they are stuck.
2) adjust the valves. Make sure they are not stuck
3) do a wet /dry compression tests.
Then you will know where you stand.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
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