1955 Cub PTO Help

[jsfarmall]

As far as the rear gaskets go, you can use liquid gasket for that if you want. That's what I do because usually when I tear.mine down I can't be waiting on parts but have a tube handy. I never had a problem yet. I keep red rtv on hand. If you want gaskets there are lots of good vendors to choose from on here but I personally like dufour tractor parts.

Flushing out the tranny, i use diesel. I Jack the rear end up with back tires off the ground. Fill with diesel and idle in low gear for a few seconds. Drain and repeat a few times depending on how much is needed. I don't run over just a few seconds at a time though. Then add 90w.

[Bob McCarty]

What is the diameter of the pin? I assume about 1/4". And the length.And, should my pilot bushing be in need of replacement, how do you get the old one out?

I measured two that weren't worn. Pin diameter is 1/4". Pin lengths were .38" and .41". That is the length to have a flush fit after drilling a through hole. The OEM's were a press fit and the pin didn't extend all the way through the flat lever stock. For bushing removal: viewtopic.php?f=142&t=21466 A search will probably show some other methods.

[Glen]

Hi,
The experts on here have said that to clean the transmission inside somewhat, drain the old oil, then fill the trans to the level plug hole with kerosene or diesel, then drive it for 5 minutes.
Then drain it, and repeat if needed.
Driving it in 3rd gear throws the fluid up from the bottom of the case more than slow speeds.
You might not want to drive it in 3rd gear the whole 5 minutes though.

He already has the rear cover off the trans in his pics on page 1 of this post.
The trans has to be assembled to run the kerosene or diesel in the trans.

[mroberts]

Bob -Finally, after welding a 1/4" diameter bolt to the lever I'm getting around to cutting off the bolt on the lever to the proper length. Saw your post and just wanted to confirm. I should leave 0.41" from the base of the lever? I attached some pictures of the lever and I drew some lines on one of them to illustrate. Should I just cut it straight or is the edge rounded off any? Thanks.

[Bob McCarty]

.41 to the left line in your picture. I'd also suggest dressing the weld where the pin meets the lever. The end can be cut square, the clutch rubs on the side not on the end.

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is a listing for a new shaft, with pics, from TM Tractor. The part of the small pin sticking out should be round and smooth up to the metal it is welded to. It has to run in the PTO clutch slot.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/pt/317fp.htm

[mroberts]

Bob and Glen,

Thank you. I cleaned up around the pin where it meets the lever. I also cut the bolt and I'm close to .41", The lever thickness has increased some with the weld on the back, so its difficult to get it just right. Not sure about the tolerances, but the pin could be .02" to .04" longer.

I received my new seal the other day along with gaskets. I was surprised to find the new one to be much narrower than the one I removed.

I'm just about ready to put it all back together. Lol, it has been long enough now that I'm going to need to look back at the manual to put all back together. Thank you for your help, it's appreciated!

-Michael

[Dale Finch]

Yeah, you will find just about all new seals on the cub are much thinner. Sometimes that is quite an advantage, because if there is a groove worn in the shaft where the seal rode, you can position the new seal in a slightly different position to avoid the groove. You want to make sure it is smooth, though, with no burrs.

[Scrivet]

Those little nitriles have a tougher hide than cows so they can use less material than the old leather seals required.

[mroberts]

Thanks. This has been fun. I was able to slightly tap back in the new oil seal and reassemble the PTO shaft, shield, and lock. Earlier, I tested the grease fitting, so it appears to be working well. Now I just need to install it with the PTO lever assembly. LOL, I'm hoping it all goes together like buttering toast, but my hope usually doesn't reflect reality.

I'm inclined not to add any sealer or shellac to the two gaskets. Would anyone suggest otherwise?

[Glen]

Hi,
Before putting it together, be sure the new pin you have fits freely into the slot in the PTO clutch, in the position it will be running when assembled.

To put the PTO in the housing, I remove the bolt holding the PTO shifter guide onto the transmission shifter cover, then the PTO lever will go farther ahead, that lets the pin you replaced go farther to the rear.
Look in through the trans oil filler hole with a light, and you can see the PTO clutch slot and the pin, to fit them together.
I grease the PTO assembly using the grease fitting, before putting the PTO in, then I can see grease coming out at the shield, and see the bearing has grease.
It takes some grease to fill the area between the new seal, and the bearing.
I would grease in the PTO pilot bushing, and the end of the PTO shaft, before putting the PTO in.
Tighten the bolt at the PTO guide gently, it is small.

You could use a thin coat of sealer on the gaskets, it will probably have less seeping than without sealer.

[mroberts]

Thanks Glen, I finally reassembled it the other day and with your directions things went together quickly. I've seen no leaks and it engages and disengages smoothly. I don't have any implements at the moment that I can attach to see how it performs under load, but hopefully soon. Thanks again to all who have helped.