49 cub restoration project

[Spencer]

Thanks for the advice, I have decided to not purchase it. However, I was contacted by someone else who has the correct blade as seen on TM tractor.

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is the Cub 54 Blade operator's manual, if you don't have it. It has lots of info.
You don't use the manual lift lever shown in it if the Cub has Touch Control.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

If the blade is an original white one, they are newer. I'm guessing they started using white when the yellow and white Cubs came out, during 1964.

[cjack]

Am I correct that the seat bracket should not flare out like this? Seems to be preventing the installation of our new toolbox. So many bent pieces on this old girl...

[Bob McCarty]

Yes, the toolbox should slide over the seat bracket. The bottom is sloped and cut out on the back to allow that to happen. You might be able to do it with a BIG c-clamp and avoid messing up the nice paint job.

[Glen]

Hi,
Below are pics from TM Tractor of a seat post. The 4th pic shows the metal is straighter than yours, but still some bend, I think. It might be hard to see good in a pic.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gse/post_001.htm

[cjack]

Hi, we are putting together the touch control block. We have an o-ring kit from Steiner, IHS3027. Our block casting number is 351981R1. Some of the o-rings are really tight. Neither the control valve nor the piston will move without some aggressive rubber mallet action. The piston didn't worry me too much at first but we can't manually budge the control valve which doesn't seem right. We oiled the orings. They look quite a bit larger than the old ones.

Do we have the wrong o-ring package?

[Glen]

Hi,
It says at Steiner's website that the kit fits old or newer Touch Controls, and it might have some extra o rings or washers.
If you can't get it to work right, you could return the kit, and buy a kit at TM Tractor at the bottom of the page.
They have Case IH kits, it says.
They have a kit for the older, and a kit for the newer Touch Control.
The number of Touch Control you have is the first Touch Control.

Use new Hy-Tran fluid on the o rings and valves when putting them on valves, and when putting them in the Touch Control.

[cjack]

Thanks Glen. Can you confirm that you should be able to move the control valve with your hand? What about the piston assembly?

[Dale Finch]

I WILL say the o-ring on that control valve is ALMOST impossible to get on!! Once in the groove, the control valve IS very tight. I smother it in HyTran.

The main piston usually takes 2 people to install it...one to push and one to rotate it while going in. I HAVE resorted to a rubber mallet on that piston, but you do risk nicking the o-ring. Again, use plenty of HyTran in the holes and during assembly on the parts.

I would really emphasize using some crocus cloth or fine emery paper on all the groove edges to remove the sharpness that would increase the chance is cutting the o-ring.

HOW TO's...OLD BLOCK:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=89514

NEW BLOCK:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=42857

[cjack]

Thanks Dale, sounds like we had it right the first time. Maybe use more hytran and spend some time smoothing the edges.

Thought I would post a pic showing our progress to date. Most of the body work was indeed done by Spencer. Dad (that's me) provided some moral support and motivational speaking. Paint is all rattle can!

We did end up finding a blade from someone less than 10 km away, Looking forward to moving some snow soon.

[cjack]

Called O'Neil's, our local CaseIH store, and they had two of the control valve orings in stock (CAD$11 a piece!). I brought 'em home and sure enough, they are 1/32" smaller diameter than the one in the Steiner kit. The control valve can move now - it "feels" well sealed, but no longer impossible to budge.

[cjack]

New wiring harness from Brillman was excellent. Very clear instructions, but we found out if you want your generator to charge, you do need to follow the instructions correctly. (The cutoff relay box gets real hot if you put the GEN wire to the F terminal.) We also didn't realize it was important for the charging/light switch to be grounded. Evidently, we had too much paint. That took some time to figure out.

So, in our "restoration" we skipped changing the differential seals. If we have a bunch of oil dripping out of the holes in the bottom of the differential housing, I guess that seal at the gear box needs changing?

This forum has been a great resource, we are almost there.

[Dale Finch]

I didn't go back to reread the entire thread, so you may have already done this...but just in case...
Usually, the reason those seals leak is because the transmission is overfilled. This can be with gear oil if they weren't refilled to the proper level. More often, it is due to water in the transmission, either down the gear shifter or from condensation.

So if not already done, I suggest you drain the transmission, and refill with the proper amount of gear oil, which is ~ 3 1/2 PINTS. Those seals are NORMALLY above the oil level, only preventing the splashed oil from leaking out. They are not meant to seal a standing level above them.

[cjack]

Ahhhh. Dale, thank you! You may have saved us a ton of grief. It is quite possible we did not drain the transmission before refilling.

[Jim Becker]

Ahhhh. Dale, thank you! You may have saved us a ton of grief. It is quite possible we did not drain the transmission before refilling.

Only fill to the level plug. Plug is on the left side near the front of the transmission.