No brakes

[LU&E42]

My 47 Cub has no breaks (well, the right side still grabs a little). I'm new to Cubs and not sure where to start. Advice would be appreciated, finding a nice gentle slope for a rolling stop probably wont work for long.

[tst]

if the linkage rods move in and out at the final drive when you step on and release the pedals that means the problem is internal and the final drives will need to come off to see what the issue is, such as bad brake band, drum, etc

[LU&E42]

tst, I thought it might be something like that. I just wanted a small simple tractor that I could take care of easily. Guess it's time to start learning. Any tricks to pulling off the final drives that I need to know so I don't drop a tractor on my toe?

[tst]

wedge the front axle so it cannot pivot and flop over on you 1st, its safer to repair one side at a time, pull the wheel and final and its all laying in front of you, many times the axle shaft seal is leaking soaking the brake lining so they do not work so they should be replaced

[Glen]

Hi,
You do need to take some of the rear apart to repair the brakes on a Cub.
The brakes are in the upper part of the final drives, the final drives have to be removed to replace the brakes.
Each final drive is held on the Cub with 6 bolts in a circle.
It is safer to remove 1 final drive at a time, so 1 rear tire and wheel are on the tractor, while you repair the other side.

The brakes are in areas between the transmission housing, and the final drives. The areas should be dry, with no oil in them.
If there is oil on the brakes, the seals probably need replacing. But leaking can be caused by too much oil, or water, in the transmission.

Check or change the transmission oil, it should be filled to the oil level plug, low on the left side of the trans. If it has water in the oil, the oil needs changing. It holds 3 1/2 Pints of oil.
The Cub owner's manual shows how to change all the oils on a Cub.

You can look in the holes in the final drives where the brake rod goes into the casting, using a light, and see if there is oil leaking on the brakes. There are holes at the rear of the castings also.

If you are removing a final drive, I would replace the oil seals, so the brake does not get soaked with oil caused by leaking seals.
There is another oil seal in the final drive that should be replaced, if you remove the final drive. It is behind the brake drum, in the final drive housing.

Be sure to use the wooden wedges at the front axle pivot, Cubs are heavier on the left side, and can tip over when removing parts of them from the rear, if you don't use the wedges. You will have to make the wedges. Hammer them in tight, and check them some during the work, to be sure they don't come loose.

Below is a listing for a new brake band, with lining, at TM Tractor. It says it is a genuine Case IH part.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/br/288fp.htm

Below are new seals. The 2 seals per side are different sizes.
If you were repairing both brakes, or removing both final drives, you would need 2 of each seal.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/245fp.htm

This listing below for the seal has a pic of how the final drives look, and the axle shafts.
The shafts the brakes are on come out the way it is shown in the pic in the listing, out through the hole where the cover held on with the 4 bolts is. Then you can get to the oil seal, with a punch, and hammer it out, clean the housing, and install a new seal. Be sure the seal lip is facing toward the gears in the housing, that is where the oil is. Don't hammer directly on a new seal, put something metal on it to hammer on.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/044fp.htm

TM Tractor has new gaskets for the final drive pans, and other parts.

For the right side, with the extension between the trans, and final drive, if you want to replace the seal in the trans, you will need to remove the seat post, battery box, loosen the platform, and remove the extension to replace the seal.
If you take the final drive off the right side, I would look in the extension with a good light, and see if the seal is leaking.

Below is a very good post made by Dale Finch showing removing a final drive for brake repair. I would read it before working on the Cub.

viewtopic.php?f=142&t=78436

Below is the Cub service manual, it has lots of info. The final drives are in section 7. I would read it before working on the Cub.
This manual shows only the newer style of brakes, I think. IH changed the style of brakes in 1953, they are similar, but not the same as the 1st style of brakes.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

Below is a pic of the brake, and where the seal in the final drive is. Good luck.

[Dale Finch]

Glen, you are FAST!!!

Here's a post from the HOW TO section:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=142&t=78436

FYI, there is also a seal in the final, that can easily be replaced while you have the final off. It does require removal of the differential shaft (#6 below), but you will have the brake drum off anyway, so it means removing the 4 bolts holding the differential shaft bearing retainer (#2) and gasket. The gasket is available from TM Tractor parts, or you can make one yourself.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fr/473fp.htm

[inairam]

I personally like motorcycle lifts https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools ... _200641776 and some 4x4 cribbing to safely lift the front or back of the cub. Work from a level hard surface.

You have to block the front axle of the tractor with wedges (do a search on this site) This is very important. The engine/ radiator section can shift to left causing the tractor to flip making for a very bad day.

The service manuals are on this site

Here is a video to give you an overview of the job. use the service manuals for details. Consider the video as an overview.

https://www.steinertractor.tv/wrenching ... --3835634/

[LU&E42]

Wow, thanks everyone for your prompt and detailed response. Looks like I'm going to have an interesting weekend.

[Dale Finch]

If you have an engine hoist, it does make life a lot easier! If not, try to have someone around to help you. Those wheels and finals CAN be manhandled, but a lot easier with assistance, mechanical or human! Oh, and take lots of photos, so you can figure out how things came apart and go back together!!

Have fun.

[LU&E42]

I'll take lots of photos. Then when I cant get it back together I'll post them here and you can walk me through it...

[MiCarl]

Before you tear everything apart you might try adjusting them per the service manual. They do need periodic adjustment.

A shame to tear the ass of the tractor apart when you might simply need to give a few spins to a couple turn buckles.

[Dale Finch]

I'm sure you will have no problems! But we are ready to help, if you do.

[Bob McCarty]

If it hasn't been mentioned before, I'd suggest doing the left side first. The axle is shorter and disassembly and reassembly is easier.

[Paul in NJ]

Left brake if completely dead can be contaminated with transmission oil. That 90 weight oil on the brake lining will completely disable the brake. I have had that issue along with a broken anchor pin which attaches the brake band to the housing, Also, the screws which dog the brake drum to the shaft can work loose and the output shaft just spins in the drum. Good advice to change the transmission and axle housing seals near the brakes when you have it apart. Cubs have inadequate brakes even when working right so fix them to be safe.

[Glen]

Hi,
You could check the brake pedal free play, the Cub service manual says they should have about 7/8", on page 7-10. That is measured at the surface where you put your foot.

The clutch pedal should have 1 3/16" free play on Cubs below serial number 32229.

Below is the 1947 Cub owner's manual, if you don't have it. The experts on here recommend reading it, it has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

The 1947 owner's manual has no Touch Control info, if your Cub has Touch Control, there is info in newer owner's manuals. They tell how to change the fluid, and remove the air from the system.
Nowadays they recommend using Case IH Hy-Tran fluid in the Touch Control.
It is sold at Case IH dealers. It holds 3 1/2 Pints of fluid to change the fluid.

Always check the fluid with the arms in the rear, or down position. The fluid rises in the unit as the arms go to the rear. If you fill it with the arms ahead, it will be overfilled.
Also, if you check it with the arms ahead, it will look low on fluid, even if it has enough.
The manual says to check it with the arms to the rear.