Implement lift arm

[Jerry's cub]

Broke the lift arm today right at the pivot joint, was surprised to see it made from what appears to be cheap white metal. My welding is limited and my welder is an old stick welder ac/dc. Is this a doable weld or is there a better way? Going to include a couple pictures so you all may see where I am talking.

[MiCarl]

Probably a steel casting. Looks like it is welded onto the shaft. (Not a part I'm familiar with, Fast Hitch?)

Use a magnet to check it.

[tst]

you can see half of it was broken for a long while by the rust, time caught up to it, that is cast, no reason a good weld job will not fix it

[Glen]

Hi,
That is the Fast Hitch depth adjusting lever, for raising and lowering the front of the Fast Hitch bail.
Mine looks like a long bar of steel. The ones I have seen are originally welded onto the round piece of metal just below it. If that one is the same, it broke just above the original weld.

Be careful when repairing it, the lever has to be the right length, so it is in the right position at the quadrant. It can't be too low, or too high in the quadrant.

[Slim140]

I bought one that had been badly repaired in the same spot. I cut it apart and redid it. Used regular cold rolled steel and a mig welder. No reason an ac/dc stick welder won’t work.

You’re looks cast iron the way it’s gray but it’s probably just really high carbon steel.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Maybe it is just my eyes, but I cannot figure3 out what that lift arm is for, it appears to be mounted on a final drive. I broke one last fall, but it was the rear arm bolted to the top of transmission. It was actually a hand lift that had been converted, but the break looked much the same.

[Jerry's cub]

Glen is correct it is the depth control lever for the front bail arm on my fast hitch. I guess I had way to many cinders yesterday on the carry all and it was already cracked of which I was not aware of and it went bang. Thought it looked cast and assumed it would be miserable stuff to get a good weld to hold.

[k hutchins]

If it were me, l'd clean it good, do my initial bead on each side, clean those of slag, then two more beads over lapping each side of the first. As long as you can get good penetration it should be almost as strong as the original cast.
JMO
Hutch

[Jerry's cub]

What rod and temperature would be suggested and ac or dc setting? Have never welded anything cast before so maybe I need to find something to experiment on of equal size metal, before messing this thing up.

[Slim140]

Hit it with a grinder and see what the sparks look like. If they are bright yellow sparks and go a long way, it’s carbon or cast steel. If they are orange and don’t go very far it’s cast iron, that will tell you what rod to use.

If it’s steel use a 6013 or 7018 and turn the heat up to about 120-140 dc for steel.

If it’s cast iron use a nicad rod for cast iron about the same heat range on ac for cast.

If your rod sticks easily and quickly your heat isn’t high enough. If it burns the metal away to fast it’s to high.

[Jerry's cub]

Okay Shane thank you for your input, I am going give it the magnet test tomorrow and see what the results are. I do have 6013's the NiCad's will have to be gotten from napa. I planned to grind a good bit off the edges to allow room to build up the weld, I am thinking I remember hearing a veteran welder stating once that when welding cast to go slow. Weld a little let the project cool some and weld a little more and so on until finished, so as to never let the cast become over heated as if it does the weld will not bond well with metal. Not sure if I remember that correctly.

[Glen]

Hi,
John, it is the Fast Hitch depth adjusting lever, on the right side of the Cub, made before the crank was used.
Below is a page from the Cub parts manual showing it.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 009-09.jpg

My lever and mounting parts look like regular steel pieces welded together, not cast, but I don't know if they were all the same.

[Frozenstate]

I use a carbon arc rod in my stick welder and "everdur" silicone bronze rod. First heat the part in an oven for quite a while, after grinding a nice v notch. Take the part out while hot and weld it with the carbon arc as your heat source. After welding immediately bury it in Sand and leave it to cool as slowly as possible overnight.

[Jim Becker]

I doubt that the part is cast iron. Spark test it as Shane described.

[Slim140]

For anyone that’s wondering here’s the difference in cast iron sparks and steel sparks.

Cast iron

Steel