New head gasket leaking

[Flybeyes]

I’ve had my engine rebuilt, the head milled flat and it’s been sitting reassembled for about two years. I paid close attention to putting each bolt back where it came from. The pattern of tightening and torque specs were followed. I now have the cub nearly done and I’m starting to add fluids. I’ll add them, then wait a few days and wait for a drip. Then I’ll tighten things up and keep moving. I’m in no hurry. What I have leaking is the most forward intake manifold hole is leaking anti freeze. Basically the second hole from the front. The engine has not been started yet. I tightened all the head bolts as tight as I feel comfortable trying/hoping not to break one. I still have a slow leak of antifreeze. The quantity I added was 9.5quarts. It’s not a big deal to take the head back off. I do not have the tank on yet. I’m just checking to see your thoughts. Could I have put the head gasket on upside down? Could it be a bad head gasket? Will Permatex Copper Spray-a-Gasket help? Could the block be cracked? I’m stumped until I take it off. I’ll keep you posted when I do. I’m doing this project with my son so we both have to coordinate our schedules so things sometimes don’t move swiftly.

[Dale Finch]

Most folks say you need to put sealant on the head bolts, since they extend into the water jacket. Did you use any sealant on them?

[Flybeyes]

I did not. On the threads? What sealant is recommended?

[BigBill]

I spray the new headgasket with permatex hi tack sealant then assemble it. I dip each head bolt in permatex just like it comes from the factory.

I had a big block 396/400hp that didn’t like headgasket. I narrowed it down to needing a bigger 4 row radiator. But I learned this way to follow assembling the heads and never blew a head gasket again. I follow this order on every engine.

[Glen]

Hi,
The head bolts need sealer on their threads to prevent water leaks, they go into the engine water jacket.
I think the people on here have said the 4 manifold studs need sealer too.

Below is a post I wrote on, with info, and pics of the sealer products. It is part way down the page.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102173&p=807860

If you have put it together, and put antifreeze in it, drain the coolant first. Wash the threads with clean water to remove the antifreeze, and dry them with compressed air, before putting sealer on, it has to stick some on the metal. Wear your safety glasses when using the air.

The head bolts are torqued to 45 ft lbs, the Cub service manual says.
Below is a page from it, with the torque sequence, if you need it.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 001-14.jpg

[Stanton]

...I tightened all the head bolts as tight as I feel comfortable trying/hoping not to break one...

That's not an option. Your head bolts should be Grade 8 or stronger and use a torque wrench to get the exact lbs/foot torque called for in the Manual. Torque them in sequence and use a gradual increment to achieve final poundage. Torque to 15 lbs/foot each round for 3 rounds and that will bring you up to 45 lbs/foot. Run engine until good and hot, allow to cool, then re-torque as necessary to specs.