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Where to Start...
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- Posts: 1
- Joined: Mon May 20, 2019 8:23 am
- Zip Code: 24066
Where to Start...
My father just gifted my youngest on a 1948 Farmall Cub that has been sitting outside for 20+ years. The engine is not seized/frozen and rotates freely. The tractor itself is covered with mostly surface rust. I'm trying to get an idea of where to start in the restoration project. Should I disassemble, categorize the parts, take pictures, etc. before sand blasting the rust? Or should initially sand blast to see where the potential issues lie? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 4559
- Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 4:27 pm
- Zip Code: 06076
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: CT, Stafford Springs
Re: Where to Start...
I would start right here;
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91765
Then when you have 2 posts, access the PDF Manuals in the Drop down menu at the top of this page titled "Quick Links".
Good luck and Happy Cubbing.
Peter
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91765
Then when you have 2 posts, access the PDF Manuals in the Drop down menu at the top of this page titled "Quick Links".
Good luck and Happy Cubbing.
Peter
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade
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- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 20378
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 9:52 pm
- Zip Code: 65051
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Mo. Linn
Re: Where to Start...
Welcome. The tractor has been sitting for 20 years, it's not running.
Work on only one issue at a time. I would begin with the engine, still in the tractor. Evaluate it's condition.
I wouldn't spend any money on the tractor until you know how much it's going to take to get it into field ready working condition.
The absolute last thing I would do is the paint job.
Work on only one issue at a time. I would begin with the engine, still in the tractor. Evaluate it's condition.
I wouldn't spend any money on the tractor until you know how much it's going to take to get it into field ready working condition.
The absolute last thing I would do is the paint job.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 581
- Joined: Sat Dec 16, 2017 8:28 am
- Zip Code: 48154
- Tractors Owned: 2021 RK25 "Barbie"
1944 Farmall H
1948 Farmall Cub (SOLD)
1994 Speedex 1631 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Howell, MI
Re: Where to Start...
Eugene wrote:Welcome. The tractor has been sitting for 20 years, it's not running.
Work on only one issue at a time. I would begin with the engine, still in the tractor. Evaluate it's condition.
I wouldn't spend any money on the tractor until you know how much it's going to take to get it into field ready working condition.
The absolute last thing I would do is the paint job.
That's great advice there. I used to be in the motorcycle business. Was absolutely heartbreaking to run into someone who had spent time and money prettying up a classic that turned out to be mechanically hopeless.
1944 Farmall H
1948 Farmall Cub
1994 Speedex 1631
1948 Farmall Cub
1994 Speedex 1631
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue May 28, 2019 12:35 pm
- Zip Code: 07481
Re: Where to Start...
Paint after you have used it for one year and most everything breaks. Otherwise, you will wreck your paint each time you work on it.
Unless that tractor has sentimental value you can get one alreadh restored for far less than even just the parts of a good rebuild.
Have fun
Unless that tractor has sentimental value you can get one alreadh restored for far less than even just the parts of a good rebuild.
Have fun
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 2823
- Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2015 10:24 am
- Zip Code: 19342
- Tractors Owned: 1948 6v - Dozer
1949 with kub klipper belly mower. mag 6v - Mom
1950 with plow, 54 blade, mott mag 6v - Roxanne
1953 54 blade, c22, wood 42 6v
1957 6v - barn Queen
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower 12 v - Loboy
1974 Horse II 12 v c-2
1975 with woods 42-6 12 v - Horse
1979 long strip 12 v stuck engine
130 with international 1000 loader 6 v
1969 140 with bush hog tow behind mower 12 v
Terramite T-6 4WD Backhoe Perkins diesel
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Glen Mills PA
Re: Where to Start...
Paint should be the last thing on the list right now. Go through the list previously posted and get it started and see where you are.
I suggest you and your child decide what type of restore you are going for. Reliable working tractor? Show tractor? From that factory correct tractor? lawn ornament tractor? It helps to have an end game.
I personally go for reliable working but try not to stray too far original. If it was born 6 volt I keep it 6 volts but I may use LED lights, electronics voltage regulator. If it 12 volt I will switch to an alternator and electronic ignition.
I suggest you and your child decide what type of restore you are going for. Reliable working tractor? Show tractor? From that factory correct tractor? lawn ornament tractor? It helps to have an end game.
I personally go for reliable working but try not to stray too far original. If it was born 6 volt I keep it 6 volts but I may use LED lights, electronics voltage regulator. If it 12 volt I will switch to an alternator and electronic ignition.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 754
- Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 5:52 pm
- Zip Code: 44491
- Tractors Owned: 52 Cub, 42 Farmall H 49 Ford 8N (FIL's tractor) and a yard full of implements for them 51 Chevy 3100 PU
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: West Farmington, OH
Re: Where to Start...
For what it's worth, from experience I agree, paint is the last thing to do. And welcome to what has to be the greatest tractor forum there is. Don't hesitate to ask questions or advice, there are members here with everything from the "rusty patina" you have to "trailer queens" and I can't remember anyone on here that hasn't been willing to give advice and help if possible. John
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 414
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2015 12:02 pm
- Zip Code: 25314
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub (looks pretty)
1951 Cub (does the work)
1952 Cub (sold) - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Charleston, WV
Re: Where to Start...
Welcome to the forum!
Regarding sandblasting, I have heard the guys on here warn about getting sand where it doesn't belong depending on how much disassembly you have done.
And how old is the proud new owner? These are awesome projects for sons and daughters!
Regarding sandblasting, I have heard the guys on here warn about getting sand where it doesn't belong depending on how much disassembly you have done.
And how old is the proud new owner? These are awesome projects for sons and daughters!
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2018 1:38 pm
- Zip Code: 13126
- Tractors Owned: 1957 Farmall Cub "Mule"
- Location: Oswego, NY
Re: Where to Start...
I'm with the majority. To me, if it doesn't run, it's a hunk of cast iron taking up space in the shop. I'd determine what it'd take to get it running, and work up a cost estimate. I'm like inairam, I like a good working tractor that earns it's keep, but I keep it as original as I can for most things, a good working example of a Farmall Cub. 6 volts fine with me, it starts easy and runs well.
Enjoy getting to know your Cub. Great little mules they are.
Enjoy getting to know your Cub. Great little mules they are.
Opportunity is missed by most people because it comes dressed in overalls and looks like work-Thomas Edison
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2008 12:32 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Super C
Re: Where to Start...
I'm going to stray just a tiny amount from the majority. Not much though. I'm not sure how old your Son is, but this would make an awesome project for the two of you. Memories made will last a lifetime. Like was said above, get it running and go through that list provided. Once you're happy with how it runs, pretty it up.
Its me, Ant-Knee
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6152
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: Where to Start...
Hi,
Below is the 1949 Cub owner's manual. The experts on here recommend reading it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1. It has pics of how the Cubs originally looked.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html
The recommendation in the manual for using motor oil in the Touch Control was changed later, to use Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. They sell it at Case IH dealers.
I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Low oil in a gear case can damage parts.
There are 3 separate gear cases, with 3 separate oil levels to check, at the rear area of a Cub.
The transmission, and 2 final drives.
The trans commonly get water in them from rain, or condensation inside them over time.
If the Cub has been sitting outside for that many years, without covering it, the trans could have water in it, and be rusted.
Below is the 1949 Cub owner's manual. The experts on here recommend reading it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1. It has pics of how the Cubs originally looked.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html
The recommendation in the manual for using motor oil in the Touch Control was changed later, to use Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. They sell it at Case IH dealers.
I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Low oil in a gear case can damage parts.
There are 3 separate gear cases, with 3 separate oil levels to check, at the rear area of a Cub.
The transmission, and 2 final drives.
The trans commonly get water in them from rain, or condensation inside them over time.
If the Cub has been sitting outside for that many years, without covering it, the trans could have water in it, and be rusted.
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