Brass fitting in carburetor's lower half

[bauerei]

I snapped off the thin tube that spans the halves of the cub's carburetor. I found the thread on this board that says what to do to get the threaded end out.

That said, as we say in Pennsylvania, I was schusslich. Rather than drilling out the stuck threads and tapping on the top half where the tube was, I decided (dumbly) to do this to something on the bottom half.

Before:

After:

Can someone tell this dumb Dutchman what I've wrecked with this?

[Bob McCarty]

It's called a "bleed". I fixed one just like that at the Bash. PM me your address and I'll mail you an insert that you can JB Weld it in with. If you can read the part # on the flat area of the top, I can make sure it has the right diameter orifice.

[bauerei]

Thanks, Bob. PM sent. One further question. I assume I should drill out the rest of the bleed. Do you know what drill size I should use?

[rick 48 cub]

happened to me to on my 1948 cub. Small miracle - I visited my local case/ih dealer AND THEY HAD ONE IN STOCK! Sorry, I do not recall part number.

[Bob McCarty]

Do you know what drill or size I should use?

I'll measure the OD and let you know.

[bauerei]

:surrender: happened to me to on my 1948 cub. Small miracle - I visited my local case/ih dealer AND THEY HAD ONE IN STOCK! Sorry, I do not recall part number.

It's interesting that it's not in the parts manual. I didn't realize that it's an available part.

Edit:
I found Bob's prior post in another thread on the issue:
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=103767#p822725

The part is the "main air bleed." It is not in the 1955 parts manual, but it is in the shop service manual (as Bob noted in the other thread) in the fuel section and in the 1979 parts manual. Here's the info:

[bauerei]

Do you know what drill or size I should use?

I'll measure the OD and let you know.

Thank you!

[Bob McCarty]

Don McCombs pointed out to me that if you enlarge the picture, there is still a part of the bleed with an intact orifice in it. I'd suggest reassembling the carb and I'll bet it runs okay without doing anything to the bleed.

[Jim Becker]

These pictures are the bottom half of the carburetor. I though the bottom of the tube was just a tube with the orifice at the top of the tube, in the other half of the carburetor.

[Bob McCarty]

He started drilling in the wrong half to replace the broken idle tube and drilled out part of the bleed.

[Jim Becker]

He started drilling in the wrong half to replace the broken idle tube and drilled out part of the bleed.

OK. Now I see what I was looking at.

[bauerei]

Ah, yes, I see. There is a bit of an orifice left in it. I drilled out a substantial amount and threaded it, but I didn't go deep enough to completely screw the idle tube in it.

What kind of pressures go through the orifice?

Thanks for your replies, everyone. This never should have happened.

[Don B.]

Well, Bob, I do feel just a little better now that I know someone else has made this mistake.
Bauerei, Bob helped me fix mine at the Bash by fabricating a tiny 1/8" diameter brass rod with the correct hole drilled in it. I drilled the carb 1/8" diameter by about 1/8" deep. We JB welded it in place and its working great.
Yours does look like you still have enough of the original brass to work. Just make sure you carefully clean out any shavings or chips from your surgery.
Thanks again, Bob!

[Bob McCarty]

I drilled out a substantial amount and threaded it, but I didn't go deep enough to completely screw the idle tube in it.What kind of pressures go through the orifice?

The bleed is a press fit, the idle tube threads into the carburetor top and the idle tube extends into the hole next to the one you drilled out; the bleed. No idea about pressures.

[bauerei]

I suspect the air pressure in the line is not that high.

Drilling out the broken idle tube end in the right hole :

Extracting the broken end:

Success!

Cleaning threads with a tap:

Test fit (not all the way in)...more success!