Water leak at head bolt

[padre]

While working on the replacement of the points I found water pooled around the headbolt: middle row second from the rear.

I have no idea what this means or what I can do about it. Please give me some more help--even if it's bad news.

[mozer71]

The indication is head gasket failure but there is a reason behind that. I'm backing out of here so the actual guys who know this, can help.

[tst]

look carefully around the head bolt area to make sure the head is not cracked, if it looks good the head bolts thread in to the water jacket of the block so they need to have sealer on the bolts so the coolant does not seep out around the bolt and leaks at the top, if some one just had the head off I would bet they did not seal the bolts

[Glen]

Hi,
Good that you replaced the points and condenser.

You could try drying the coolant at the bolt with a paper towel, and see if it comes back.

If it comes back, to inspect it closely for cracks, you probably need to take the hood off.

The head bolt threads go into the engine water jacket, so water can run up the bolt threads if there is no sealer, or if hasn't been removed in decades, and the thread has lost the seal.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual, I guess you mean it is the bolt at number 3 in the pic.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... -01-14.jpg

If you don't want to remove the hood, you could try sealing the bolt threads.
You will need to drain the coolant, from the drain under the radiator, on the casting. Then remove the one bolt, clean it and it's threads. Use clean water if it has antifreeze, and wash off the antifreeze and dry it.
Put sealer on the bottom 1/2" of the threads, and put it in again.

The bolts are torqued to 45 ft lbs, with a torque wrench. If you don't remove the hood, you will have to guess the torque, using a 1/2" drive ratchet up under the hood, unless there is enough room for a torque wrench.

The head bolts should have non hardening sealer. Below is a pic of a sealer that works for them.
It is Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket. It has a brush made under the cap, as far as I know.
They sell it at NAPA auto parts stores. If you buy one, stir it well before using it, it settles in the can sitting.
After putting the bolt in, you could let it sit for a day before putting the coolant in, that will let the sealer dry some. A good time to put in new antifreeze, if it needs it. Good luck.

[padre]

Yes, it is bolt number 3. None of the other bolts show this condition. I do not see any crack or other damage around the bolt head but the water does return almost to the point of seeping out. The presence of water makes me cautious about rust. I surely do not want to damage or break the bolt. I am not planning to try this fix immediately because we have an RV trip planned (Santa Fe, NM). But I will appreciate any suggestions, cautions, or details about removing that bolt so I will be prepared when we return. I am deeply grateful for the help I get on this forum.

[NJ Farmer]

Although I use Aviation Form-A-Gasket on most oil/gasket applications (I.e. oil pan, rear axle) I would use a small amount of non hardening white PIPE DOPE the one in the small can with a brush on the threads only of the head bolts. Don’t go crazy with it just on the threads. This sealant is really design for water applications and high temp applications (I.e. boilers,furnaces)

Anyway every mechanic has there special tips and tricks that’s just mine.

NJ Farmer