seized motor

[xrcr]

First cub
I discovered that my #4 is the one that's the problem today123 look good and cylinders are smooth no lip. #4 is rusted at the top of sleeve. All valves move with a screwdriver so it has to be 4piston. I am soaking and crossing my fingers

[Glen]

Hi,
xrcr, Cub engines originally have no sleeves in the cylinders. The cylinders are part of the block.

I have read on here that some people have had sleeves put in, if an engine needed repair.

[xrcr]

Glen,
I was wondering that. It's probably just a ring from the head gasket. I just pulled the head and did zero cleanup so that will tell. I have to drop the mower and then the pan today and see what underneath looks like.Exisiting oil looks ehh.... Not milky, but I don't know. This was a visual from dipstick Pulling the plug will be the tell all. Still crossing fingers

[ntrenn]

You will be surprised at how much of the corrosion will clean up with a flex hone. Even if it’s not perfect, fresh rings and clean grooves will do wonders. 5 years and counting on mine..

[Papa's Cub]

First Cub, Eugene is right on. Patience is key. I bought a cub last year with a stuck engine. I added almost every kind of homemade anti- seize formula I discovered into the spark plug holes and tried rocking it in 3rd gear 2 or 3 times a day without any luck. I even had my better half pull me with another cub and when I let out the clutch in 3rd gear the rear wheels locked up and the engine didn't budge. Finally, I removed the head and with a piece of oak wood and a mini-sledge hammer I tapped each piston 3-4 times every morning and evening. ( be careful the soaking oil will splash everywhere ) My patience was growing thin when one evening before going in for the night as I was striking the oak block I thought I detected a slight movement. A few more strikes and it broke. The # 1 piston was the culprit and the next day a few minutes with the hone and the cylinder wall cleaned up nicely. I adjusted the valves, cleaned the carburetor and it now purrs like a kitten. I have it disassembled now and waiting for some cooler weather to give it a fresh coat of paint and decals. So, be patient and it'll break loose. Tom.

[FIRSTCUB]

Thanks guys. I am still trying a few times a day. I have still have not removed the head or valve cover. I filtered the oil that came out of it the other day and there was nothing scary. It did have some sludge come out when I drained it from the motor however.

My out-laws came in Saturday to stay with us a while. I wasn't able to do much this weekend, but the welcome party is over now and will get back at it this week.

[FIRSTCUB]

So instead of calling it inpatient i will say I got curious. I pulled the valve cover last night. The pics are right after it was pulled. I sprayed them all down a few times and let them sit last night and today. All observations are welcomed.

[wrz]

Your valves can be free but the lifters could be frozen (rusted) and could cause the engine to not turn over.
Wm

[Rick Spivey]

If I am seeing it correctly #1 valve appears stuck open? Start spraying them with penetrant, I prefer Kroil (probably have to order it online). I've not seen one where lifters stuck, but anything is possible. Due to lack of lubrication and sitting quite some time in extreme elements, it is not at all uncommon to find the valves stuck open. The guides are very dry, and even if the engine pushes one open that was stuck in the closed position, it will likely stick in the open position.

[FIRSTCUB]

Thank you guys. I soaked them last night with PB and ATF which sat all day also until around 5pm this evening. I lightly wire brushed every thing and soaked them again. I also was able to hit internally MUCH better and directly as far as the cam/crank go.. I just moved the valves a few mins ago and definitely had some stuck, but not real bad....but obviously stuck.

I must say though, I am glad I pulled the valve cover at this point.

Rick, it is funny you mentioned Kroil....I have never used it but Googled it right before I read this. The can didn't look familiar to me so it probably will be online. I will try it, thank you.

[Glen]

Hi,
I don't think you have said the year of your Cub on here.

While you have the valve cover off is a good time to check and adjust the valve clearance.
The clearance at the ends of the valve stems is manually adjusted. If nobody adjusts them, the clearance can get too small, and the valve may not close all the way.

Below is a page from the 1949 Cub owner's manual, telling how to adjust the valves. It is written for an engine that can be turned normally. You will need to get the engine to turn before checking some of the valves. The valves and valve lifters need to be fully down to check the clearance.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-39.jpg

[FIRSTCUB]

Sorry, the Cub is a 1951. Thank you for the link and advice. I will defiantly adjust them if/when it breaks free.

[RonT]

Our local Fastenall sells Kroil at the same price as online.

[FIRSTCUB]

Thanks Ron, I actually have a Fastenall very close by and will check with them. I checked around and could not find any. I picked up some Sea Foam penetrant yesterday and actually like how it kind of foams. Going to have to buy some stock on PB as I got the big can yesterday as well and will be can #4 I think so far with the other things I have used as well.

[FIRSTCUB]

So I ended up pulling the head this weekend. Looks like it defiantly had water in cyl 3. As with the valve cover, I am glad I went a head and pulled the head. Looks like I have more work to do. I'm guessing I should pull the oil pan ? I will at least try and get it free with a wood block around the edge of the pistons, unless you guys lead me a different direction. Thanks for any and all input.