Introduction to dad's 1965 Farmall Cub

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Dadsfarmalls
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Introduction to dad's 1965 Farmall Cub

Postby Dadsfarmalls » Sun Mar 08, 2020 10:40 pm

One of the things I've done in my life is I've done a lot of video and editing work. Seeing as I have little to no experience with working on tractors I decided the easiest way to talk about it is to make videos to post. So with that said here's the first video to introduce you all to dad's 65.



I've always thought it's easier to show someone something rather than try to explain it, so I'm planning on doing more of these as I go to make it easier for you to understand what I'm talking about. I will gladly ad this disclaimer that I don't know enough about diagnosing, trouble shooting, and woking on these tractors, I'm going to use the wrong verbage, I'm going to say the wrong thing, and I'm just going to be wrong at times (very possibly often lol), I know that and it's not going to hurt my feelings if you correct me, I'm just learning as I go and this is 1 of 4 tractors that I get to learn with.

The things that I talk about that I think are wrong on this tractor are...

1 - Getting a negative charge on my voltage meter when I turn the key, and then when I start the tractor. Not sure why that is happening or what to check to start figuring it out.

2 - Gas leak at sediment bowl and sediment bowl needs to be cleaned - this I can handle on my own as it seems pretty straight forward.

3 - Power touch seems to have a leak somewhere??? When I got this cub over to my house last fall the power touch was way low on fluid, so I filled it up and went through the steps of bleeding the air out of it and it worked great. Two thirds of the way through winter it seemed a little sluggish (a little worse than in the video) so I checked the fluid level and it was lower again so I refilled, etc again. I should have checked it while I was out there today but it just feels like it is low again. Not sure where it's going.

4 - Smoking - this one I don't know where to start looking - I actually didn't realize how much smoke it's throwing until I watched the video, and honestly don't know if it's something I need to worry about or if it's just being an tractor.

Anyways I hope you enjoy the video, any suggestions or help is greatly appreciated.

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Re: Introduction to dad's 1965 Farmall Cub

Postby Bob McCarty » Sun Mar 08, 2020 10:57 pm

#3- Check the oil level. Unless you have an external leak from the Touch Control hydraulic block, you are probably leaking fluid into the oil pan and you'll find the level high on the dipstick. Correction is usually just replacing the o-ring seal on the hydraulic pump shaft. There is a "how to" on how to do this.
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Re: Introduction to dad's 1965 Farmall Cub

Postby staninlowerAL » Mon Mar 09, 2020 6:38 am

#4, Usually an indication of worn piston rings. First step is a compression check to help determine the health of the engine. Also check the "how to" for information and/or search function for "compression check". Learning is a good thing, enjoy the ride.

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Re: Introduction to dad's 1965 Farmall Cub

Postby Rick Spivey » Mon Mar 09, 2020 6:46 am

Ditto to what Bob said. If leaking hydraulic fluid into the crankcase, that may explain some of the smoking.
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Re: Introduction to dad's 1965 Farmall Cub

Postby tst » Mon Mar 09, 2020 7:51 am

for charging check the basics, make sure it has the belt for the generator is there and turning the generator, this is a 12 volt negative ground system , wires are all hooked up and clean, good grounds are important, dirty corroded wires cause problems, polarize the regulator, after these checks if still not charging follow the flow chart
Attachments
08-Regulatortroubleshootingchartrev.gif

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Re: Introduction to dad's 1965 Farmall Cub

Postby outdoors4evr » Mon Mar 09, 2020 8:21 am

Nice Tractor! Doesn't need a lot, Sounds like you have a good idea what it needs.
I'd prioritize the projects in this order:
Gas Leak - Solve this immediately! Often the screen and gasket is assembled incorrectly.
viewtopic.php?f=139&t=100214
Touch Control leak - Bob's suggestion: See if it is leaking into the engine oil. Here's the How-To
viewtopic.php?f=141&t=44196
Charging - I didn't catch whether this was 6v or 12v. Perhaps start with polarizing the Generator.
viewtopic.php?f=140&t=11804

I wouldn't do anything with the smoke just yet. Maybe change the oil and work it a bit with the mower deck and see if it improves.
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Re: Introduction to dad's 1965 Farmall Cub

Postby Gary Dotson » Mon Mar 09, 2020 8:45 am

I think repairing #3 and doing an oil and filter change may help #4 a lot. When the engine is overfull, with a lot of hydraulic fluid, they do generally smoke.

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Re: Introduction to dad's 1965 Farmall Cub

Postby Waif » Mon Mar 09, 2020 10:37 am

Exhaust pipe exit will be wet if your hydraulic fluid is leaking into crankcase. Not the moisture during warm up but after still.
Yes other conditions can cause that , but the fluid will be telling. Spitting small drops can be caught with a paper towel or clean rag at the tailpipe to check. Be careful not to be breathing the exhaust.


Your meter showing discharge at start up and shortly after is not terribly unusual.
The recovery rate of charging takes a little time ,depending on the battery and charging systems condition ,( including wiring and wiring terminals ) recovery can take longer.
Clean battery posts and their connections are important.

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Re: Introduction to dad's 1965 Farmall Cub

Postby Eugene » Mon Mar 09, 2020 11:18 am

Waif wrote:Your meter showing discharge at start up and shortly after is not terribly unusual.
Rev the engine up to 1/2 - 3/4 throttle after engine start up to start charging the battery.

The voltage regulator won't start charging the battery until the generator output voltage is higher than battery voltage.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: Introduction to dad's 1965 Farmall Cub

Postby Waif » Mon Mar 09, 2020 5:18 pm

Eugene wrote:
Waif wrote:Your meter showing discharge at start up and shortly after is not terribly unusual.
Rev the engine up to 1/2 - 3/4 throttle after engine start up to start charging the battery.

The voltage regulator won't start charging the battery until the generator output voltage is higher than battery voltage.


Sound logic.

I seldom pay attention anymore till up and operating.
R.P.M.'s are definitely up after start up/warm up before noticing any gain.

The 48 charges fine and has the switch position to increase charging rate. But will climb at an idle when warmed up.
It's rare to use the higher charge rate for me. Short distant run times are the exception , but I prefer getting things up to operating temp a while before shut down. By then all is well with a healthy battery anyways.

The distributor equipped 53 still wants higher R.P.M. to charge. At moving working speeds it is enough.
Higher gears underway and or more throttle make for fastest recovery. Not that fast is good (or expected) in charging.

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Re: Introduction to dad's 1965 Farmall Cub

Postby Glen » Mon Mar 09, 2020 6:40 pm

Hi,
A 1965 Cub is called an International Cub. IH quit using the Farmall name on them in mid 1964.
The serial number plate on the Cub says the model is an International Cub, it is visible in your video.
Some of the plates are gone, or the words are faded away, or someone has painted over them.

1, It is normal for the ammeter to show a slight discharge when you turn the ignition on, and start the engine, until you speed up the engine some. They don't start charging until you speed up the engine.
The voltage regulator is a common problem on them that could need replacing, but the wiring or other things could need repair.
Follow the flow chart that tst posted to find the problem.

2, The nut holding the gas strainer bowl on could be loose, or the gasket could need replacing.
The gaskets don't seal well when old.
There is supposed to be a filter screen above the gasket also.

Below are listings for them at TM Tractor, you can look at the pics.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/426fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/235fp.htm

It's not safe to use the Cub with the gas leak from the strainer. I would fix it soon.
I hope you shut off the gas valve when it is sitting, until it is repaired.
It is easier to get to the strainer to work on it if you move the Touch Control arms to the rear or down position before beginning the work.

3, If you don't see any external leak from the Touch Control, the fluid is probably leaking from the engine driven pump, into the engine oil pan.
Check the oil level on the dipstick, if it rises, and the Touch Control fluid level goes down, the pump shaft o ring seal needs replacing.

TM Tractor has a pump rebuild kit. It says it is a Case IH part, so Case IH has them also, I guess.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/288fp.htm

Sometimes the pump shaft is worn where the o ring runs on it, then the shaft needs repair to make it flat and smooth again.

4, The smoking could partly be caused by the Touch Control fluid thinning down the motor oil, so it gets by the piston rings easier.
If the oil is thinned down, or has Touch Control fluid in it, it needs changing, but it will keep getting thinned down, if Touch Control fluid is leaking into it.
Blue smoke is usually caused by oil burning.

The Cub operator's manual will help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the 1965 Cub operator's manual. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 59.
Changing the trans, final drive, and steering gear oils are on page 70.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

The Touch Control uses Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using a Cub with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in it.
There are 3 separate gear housings at the rear area of a Cub, with 3 separate oil levels to check, the transmission, and 2 final drives. :)

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Dadsfarmalls
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Re: Introduction to dad's 1965 Farmall Cub

Postby Dadsfarmalls » Tue Mar 10, 2020 4:09 pm

I just want to say thank you for all the input, it is greatly appreciated!

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Re: Introduction to dad's 1965 Farmall Cub

Postby Glen » Tue Mar 10, 2020 7:34 pm

Hi,
Here is some info about the Touch Control pump.

To remove the pump, you have drain the system first. Remove the filler plug on the Touch Control, then the drain plug. You can run the engine briefly, like the operator's manual says, to empty the tubes.
You have to remove the tubes to remove the pump from the engine.
The tubes have 3 bolts at the upper end, and 2 bolts hold them onto the pump.
You might have to loosen the exhaust system, and move it some, if the exhaust pipe is over the bolts holding the upper end of the tubes on the unit.
The exhaust pipe is in the way on some of them, some of them it is not in the way.
There is a gasket at the upper end of the tubes, and 2 o rings at the lower end of the tubes, the gasket and o rings come in the pump rebuild kit from TM Tractor, it showed in their info.

2 of the 4 bolts in the pump hold the pump on the engine. Looking forward from the rear, they are the upper left, and the lower right bolts. Don't remove the other 2 bolts before getting the pump to a clean work bench, it can fall apart. You can loosen them while it is on the engine.

The lock washer holding the nut on at the pump gear has to be good, to keep the nut from coming off during use. It bends over 1 flat of the nut. You have to bend the lock washer away from the nut to remove the nut. If the lock washer is still good, you can use it again.
It has to have the little tab that goes into the keyway, to prevent the nut from turning. Sometimes the tab breaks off, some people on here have said. If the tab is broken it needs a new lock washer.

Below is a new lock washer at TM Tractor, you can see what it looks like.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/562fp.htm

The pump shaft where the o ring runs has to be flat and in good condition. Sometimes the shaft wears, and there is a groove. If there is a groove, it needs repair. It may need smoothing with fine sandpaper.

Use plenty of clean Hy-Tran fluid when putting the pump together.

Below are pages from the 1955 Cub operator's manual, showing the parts of the system, and how to check or change the fluid.
On the 2nd page, be sure to do what it says in paragraph 4, to remove the air from the system. The arms should go through their full travel.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-65.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-67.jpg

The 1965 operator's manual has mistakes in the Touch Control info, in the section about draining and filling the reservoir. There is info there for another model of tractor.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the pump gear, nut, and the lock washer. :)
Attachments
Cub T C pump.jpg


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