Some maintenance questions

[Dadsfarmalls]

So I've talked about the problems I know about on my 1965 Cub.
- Gas leak - I've got this down to a very minor leak, after tightening connections down, but am planning on repacking the connectors, and also have new screen and gasket ordered as well.
- I have a hydraulic pump rebuild kit ordered to fix that leaking into the case.
- Once I have that finished I'll change the oil and oil filter. Hoping that fixes the smoking issue.

Overall this cubs in nice shape, I checked the tac on it and it shows just short of 2,400 hours on it. I'm sure dad did the basics of greasing and oil changes, and I did notice that the 3 air filter hoses are new so I know he cleaned that at some point too. But past that I don't know when or what was maintained on it, so I'm planning to basically go through everything (10 hour - 500 hour + periodics) in the 1965 operators manual combining the lubrication guide and preventive maintenance guide. Mostly because that way I know what my baseline is with further maintenance.

Between youtube and the forums here, most of the stuff I get (or think I get) but I do have some questions.

1. - Under the 150 hour mark, it calls for removing, disassembling and cleaning the entire air filter. Looking at Illustration 25 on page 25 of the manual it shows the unit broken into 4 pieces (bail, cup, screen, cap) the largest piece being the screen. Is the screen something I have to break down further to clean?

2. - Also under the 150 hour mark, it calls for checking the engine valve clearance. I thought somewhere that I saw someone using a spacer tool of some sort to check the distance, if thats correct what is that tool and where can I get one. Also I am guessing that I'll need to get a new gasket also?

3. - Under Periodic, changing Final Drive Fluid. I'm planning on taking the pans off and cleaning them out. Have gaskets ordered also. Just a little fuzzy on the process. My guess is I'll have to remove the rear wheel to get to all the bolts holding the pan on. So am I correct the process would be blocking the wheels, wedging the front end, jacking up rear wheel 1, add support stand or blocking, remove wheel, remove pan, clean pan, replace gasket and pan, fill to check for leaks, replace wheel, remove stand or blocking, lower jack, repeat for wheel 2.

4. - Under Periodic, Radiator Drain, Flush, Refill. I understand drain and refill. I'm not quite sure on the flush process. Also past that I've seen information on here about removing the radiator and cleaning out the channel below it, I am planning on doing that as well. I also have read about cleaning out the block or by the block. On the right hand side of the tractor (located at the front and lower toward the steering case) there is a rubber hose with clamps connecting from the radiator to a pipe running up to the block. Am I correct in that I should be removing the rubber hose and also the pipe where it connects to the block. Cleaning out the pipe and also trying to clean out that area inside the block?

5. - On areas that I will be replacing gaskets (under radiator, final drive pans, etc) is it just a matter of making sure the gaskets are seated well or should I be applying anything to them?

For fluids I'll be using Hytran Ultra for trans & finals, 80w-90 for steering box, and either 10w30 or 15w40 for oil.

I'll probably try to check the electrical also when I have the hood/tank off. Probably try to put the lights back on it and see if that works. It's the electric ignition 12v system with distributor and coil.

Past that I've been looking to see if dad had a compression tester, no luck yet but have more to go through. Other than that the only other question is there carburetor maintenance, or something else I should also be looking at doing right now?

As always any help is appreciated, thanks!

[Glen]

Hi,
Good that you are doing some maintenance to the Cub.

I'm not sure what you are talking about, the air cleaner pipe connecting to an IH carburetor has 2 short pieces of hose, 1 at each end of the metal pipe.

1, The filter material does not come out of the air cleaner. When the air cleaner is off the Cub, wash it out with kerosene. I pour some in it when it is upside down, put the oil cup on, with no oil in it, and shake the air cleaner every direction, then remove the oil cup and pour out the kerosene.
Repeat that until the poured out kerosene looks clean.
The kerosene can run out the hole for the pipe to the carburetor. Cover the hole with something to keep the kerosene in it while cleaning.
If you dump out the kerosene in a clean oil drain pan, you can see what was in the air cleaner.
Clean the pipe through the center of the air cleaner, like the operator's manual says.

2, To check the valve clearance, you need a feeler gauge, NAPA or other auto parts stores sell them.
It has to be a flat gauge, .013" is probably what the manual says.
The gauge will probably have several other sizes also.

3, I don't think you need to remove the rear wheels to change the final drive oils. It might provide more room, but I don't think you need to.
You can put some plastic over the rim and tire to help keep the oil off them when removing the pans.

4, You can clean the cooling system the way you wrote. If you remove the lower water elbow, I would cover the starter and Battery Ignition unit with plastic bags to help keep the water out of them, from flushing the engine.
A metal tube for a garden hose can be used to go in the hole in the block, and flush out dirt.
Below is a pic of one.

5, You can use a thin layer of liquid sealer on the gaskets, it probably helps keep them from seeping over time. Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket is good, they sell it at NAPA here in the west.
If you buy one, stir it before using, it settles in the bottom of the can sitting.

The carburetor should be clean inside, and all the passages open.
The float level and float drop need to be set right, so it doesn't drip on the ground when sitting.
There is a small screen where the gas line connects to the carb, it should be clean, so the gas can flow normally.
On the gas strainer, the dripping in your video, usually if you tighten the nut that the gas shut off handle goes through, it will stop the drip. Don't overtighten it, it makes the handle hard to turn. Good luck.

[Jim Becker]

I would view the radiator as a sleeping dog and not remove it from the bolster. Leave that for some time when you have to remove the radiator. If you make up a tool like posted above, you can clean a lot out of the bolster through the lower hose opening.

[Urbish]

I would view the radiator as a sleeping dog and not remove it from the bolster. Leave that for some time when you have to remove the radiator. If you make up a tool like posted above, you can clean a lot out of the bolster through the lower hose opening.

I concur with this. You only have to snap off one of the many bolts that hold the radiator to the bolster to turn a simple job into a real pain.

[ntrenn]

I would run the 80w90 in the finals too.
15w40 for the engine
Aviation gasket sealer is your friend on the final pans and oil pan. Old time cub techs pretty much use it everywhere.
Don’t forget to lube the fan hub. Took me 30 years to find out it’s important...,

[Dadsfarmalls]

Thank for the input everyone! Went over to mom's and found a set of dad's feeler gauges (thanks Glen, easier to find when I know what they are). Also found my grandpa's old oil jar, going to have to clean that up and put it somewhere special.

I'll skip pulling the radiator, I'll just take extra care cleaning it from below.

Received my order today from the nice folks at TM Tractor, so I'll be starting on my list soon.