48 Farmall Cub Restoration & Replacing Parts

[Nolan]

Good Afternoon,
I have been bored because of this COVID-19 quarantine stuff so I started to take apart my cub and replace a few parts, and then I thought " hey might as well take it all apart and at least paint the front two thirds of it" so I am maybe a 1/4 of the way done I have a lot of parts taken off and laid out. This is the progress so far If anyone sees anything that looks concerning or any tips feel free to fill me in. Thank you!
a few of the parts I plan to replace I may have missed a few if there is anything else you think I should look at or replace let me know!
- parts for a full tune-up
-rear main seal
-oil pan seal
-tappet cover seal
-bell housing
- rebuilding carb
- new exhaust pipe (vertical, and already removed old just have to chase the threads)
- oil pressure gauge
- clutch & throw out bearing
P.S something interesting is that the last time this tractor had a tune up was in 1969 my grandpa did a tune up and rebuilt the engine so yes those spark pugs are from 1969.

The notes in the operators manual from my grandpa say:
Bought tractor Sept 25 1968
Generator rebuilt Nov. 15 1968
Starter new brushes and bushings Nov. 15 1968
Rebuilt Motor Nov 15 1969
Reground Crank, New Pistons & Rings (.030) Rist Pin
Valve Job Mains .010 Rods .020

[Bob McCarty]

There is a page or two in the owner's manual on lubrication. If you haven't already planned on it I'd suggest changing all the fluids. The fan hub is commonly missed.

[Don B.]

I noticed there is a washer on the bolt on the back of the fan. Don't think there should be because of the way the casting is made. Maybe one of the more experienced guys on here can comment on that.

[Nolan]

There is a page or two in the owner's manual on lubrication. If you haven't already planned on it I'd suggest changing all the fluids. The fan hub is commonly missed.

I plan on making sure everything is oiled and greased, I understand how the fan hub is commonly missed, I didn't know it was there till one time it started making a terrible noise, looked in the book and found that and oiled it and it was like magic. Started it after oiling and it was so quiet.

[Dale Finch]

I noticed there is a washer on the bolt on the back of the fan. Don't think there should be because of the way the casting is made. Maybe one of the more experienced guys on here can comment on that.

Agree...that nut should sit down in between the two vertical "forks" formed by the front engine cover.

I see in a later photo that the fan is removed...just be careful when you reinstall it WITHOUT the washer because you DON'T turn that nut to tighten things up. The nut is "kept" by the forks, and you use a 13/16" wrench on the shaft forward of the forks where there are flats on the shaft.

[Nolan]

I noticed there is a washer on the bolt on the back of the fan. Don't think there should be because of the way the casting is made. Maybe one of the more experienced guys on here can comment on that.

Agree...that nut should sit down in between the two vertical "forks" formed by the front engine cover.

I see in a later photo that the fan is removed...just be careful when you reinstall it WITHOUT the washer because you DON'T turn that nut to tighten things up. The nut is "kept" by the forks, and you use a 13/16" wrench on the shaft forward of the forks where there are flats on the shaft.

Thank you for this information, I did wonder about that but didn't know why or how it would have gotten there in the first place. anyone know any reason why it would have been there?

[Dale Finch]

Actually, I will check the parts manual, but it MIGHT go in front of the forks...will get back....

OK, I THINK it might be #1 here, and if I am not mistaken, it goes in front of the forks...can someone else confirm this?
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Parts%20Manuals/TC-37F%20Revision%206%20(08-79)/Group%20-%2012%20-%20Power%20-%20C-60%20Engine/Page-05.jpg

[Dale Finch]

I found this photo from an earlier post...you can see the washer there:

IMG_1358.JPG (35.13 KiB) Viewed 840 times

BTW, you may need to grind down your 13/16" open end wrench to make it thinner, as there is not much clearance there.

[Don McCombs]

That “washer” is actually a spacer. Thicker than a normal washer.

[Dale Finch]

An often overlooked item is the fill plug in the top of the steering gear housing, down by the bottom of the steering wheel shaft. That plug is a vent for the housing, and is often "plugged" with gunk. Remove the plug and clean it off...look for a hole in the bottom that goes up to meet another hole from one of the flats. Use a wire (then perhaps brake cleaner) to clean it out...be careful, and watch your eyes!

While you have it down, make sure all the linkages from the throttle (speed control lever) all the way around to the carburetor, are free from any binding. Check that the lever at the governor (where there is a fat stubby spring) moves freely.

And speaking of moving freely, if you are not familiar with some good penetrating oils for that, try PB Blaster or Kroil (a tad more expensive!). They will work wonders getting things loose!

Such a nice project!! . Have fun!

[Glen]

Hi,
I noticed in your pics that the spark plug wire holder is not bolted on, it bolts on the 3rd head bolt from the front, on the right side of the engine. Maybe you took it off, I don't know.

Below is a page from the Cub parts manual showing it.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-25.jpg

The head bolt threads in the engine block go into the water jacket.
The head bolts should have non hardening sealer on the bottom 1/2" of their threads, to keep the coolant from running up the threads and leaking out.
If you take out a head bolt, it should have sealer put on it when you put it in.
You should drain some of the coolant before removing a head bolt, so the coolant doesn't run out the bolt hole.

The throttle rod is supposed to be held by the clip on the right side of the head, held on with the bolt with the 1/2" head. The clip helps keep the long rod from flexing.
The clip in your pic is bent wrong, it should be straight out to the right from the bolt holding it on the head. Below is a pic from TM Tractor showing the shape of the clip. After putting the rod in the clip, bend the clip closed some, so the rod can't get out of the clip. Be sure the rod moves freely in the clip.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the fan assembly, the only washer on the shaft is the thick washer in the pic, it goes in front of the slot in the engine front cover. That positions the pullies so the fan belt should be running straight.

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub operator's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the 1949 Cub operator's manual, if you don't have it. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 14.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

This manual shows the electrical system that a 1948 Cub originally had.
Cubs made before mid 1964 originally had 6 volt, positive ground electrical systems.
Yours has been changed to a Battery Ignition unit, which came out in 1950.
The info for those is in newer Cub operator's manuals.

The recommendation in the manual to use 10W oil in the Touch Control was changed later to use Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using it with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in the housing.
There are 3 separate gear housings, with 3 separate oil levels to check, in the rear area of a Cub, the transmission, and 2 final drives.

The transmissions in Cubs commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.

You didn't write the Cub's serial number on here.
IH changed the way the clutch pedal free play is adjusted during 1948, at serial number 32229.
The operators manual above shows the 2nd style adjustment method.
The 1st style is in the 1947 Cub operator's manual.

Below are pages showing the Battery Ignition unit, and the points and condenser in them.
The points have to be in good condition to work right. They get old and burned from use.
The point gap needs to be right also.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-11.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-12.jpg

TM Tractor has new points and condenser. Below is a listing, you can look at the pics.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/367fp.htm

[Nolan]

Hi,
I noticed in your pics that the spark plug wire holder is not bolted on, it bolts on the 3rd head bolt from the front, on the right side of the engine. Maybe you took it off, I don't know.

Below is a page from the Cub parts manual showing it.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-25.jpg

The head bolt threads in the engine block go into the water jacket.
The head bolts should have non hardening sealer on the bottom 1/2" of their threads, to keep the coolant from running up the threads and leaking out.
If you take out a head bolt, it should have sealer put on it when you put it in.
You should drain some of the coolant before removing a head bolt, so the coolant doesn't run out the bolt hole.

The throttle rod is supposed to be held by the clip on the right side of the head, held on with the bolt with the 1/2" head. The clip helps keep the long rod from flexing.
The clip in your pic is bent wrong, it should be straight out to the right from the bolt holding it on the head. Below is a pic from TM Tractor showing the shape of the clip. After putting the rod in the clip, bend the clip closed some, so the rod can't get out of the clip. Be sure the rod moves freely in the clip.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the fan assembly, the only washer on the shaft is the thick washer in the pic, it goes in front of the slot in the engine front cover. That positions the pullies so the fan belt should be running straight.

Thank you for all this awesome information, I believe my grandpa forgot to put that spark plug wire holder back on I will put it in its respected location. Thank you all for all of you helpful hints and knowledge. It is awesome learning things i never knew existed on this tractor!!

[Nolan]

Hi,
The Cub operator's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the 1949 Cub operator's manual, if you don't have it. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 14.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

This manual shows the electrical system that a 1948 Cub originally had.
Cubs made before mid 1964 originally had 6 volt, positive ground electrical systems.
Yours has been changed to a Battery Ignition unit, which came out in 1950.
The info for those is in newer Cub operator's manuals.

The recommendation in the manual to use 10W oil in the Touch Control was changed later to use Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using it with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in the housing.
There are 3 separate gear housings, with 3 separate oil levels to check, in the rear area of a Cub, the transmission, and 2 final drives.

The transmissions in Cubs commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.

You didn't write the Cub's serial number on here.
IH changed the way the clutch pedal free play is adjusted during 1948, at serial number 32229.
The operators manual above shows the 2nd style adjustment method.
The 1st style is in the 1947 Cub operator's manual.

Below are pages showing the Battery Ignition unit, and the points and condenser in them.
The points have to be in good condition to work right. They get old and burned from use.
The point gap needs to be right also.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-11.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-12.jpg

TM Tractor has new points and condenser. Below is a listing, you can look at the pics.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/367fp.htm

Thank you for the information, I didn't know that the electrical had been changed. Very Interesting.

[EZ]

Rebuilt 2 Cub's and a 130.
Loved getting an order ready, and the anticipation of getting the parts. While waiting I would start on another portion. Sure learned a lot about engine mechanics. Lots of help here as well over the years. A good mindset is to work to excellence on every aspect so you don't have to revisit something you did not do well enough. Enjoy. Great little machines to work on.