Adjust clutch and brakes.

[ntrenn]

Yes, so if you’re diving in...plan for new or reline old bands, at least one drum that is bad, new seals at the differential, and new oil pan gaskets and oil.
I did this last summer on my 65 Loboy. Not hard, just a lot of things to take off and put back on. I ended up with aftermarket bands that are more like automotive friction material, but they so far seem to work ok. Was hesitant to use them but so far so good.

[Glen]

Hi,
Yes, it is important to replace the oil seals, it looks like the seals are leaking in your pics.
There should be no oil in the brake areas, on either side of the Cub.
So there would be no build up of oil and goop there.
If the new brake lining gets oil on it from leaking seals, the brakes won't work. Sort of a waste of time to replace the brakes and have them get oily again.

I would pressure wash the final drives before beginning the work, and remove most of the oil and dirt.

It looks like the housing in your pics is still a first style brake housing, but the pic is sort of dark on my computer.
Yes, you can reline the brake bands that the Cub has if they are still in good condition.
The new bands with lining are easier.

The final drives can be handled by hand, if needed, but they are heavy, 2 people is better than 1 for lifting them.
Replacing the brakes and seals is probably not something everyone wants to do, if you don't do bigger repairs on tractors. You could haul the Cub to a Cub Fest, like was said on page 1 of this post.

I would check the oil in the final drives and be sure it is not low, since the one in your pic leaks oil.
The right final drive oil level plug is easy to get to, in your pic nothing is covering it.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of a final drive housing, the plug is at the left in the pic.
You will need to clean the area to see the plug, and use a screwdriver to remove the oil and dirt from the plug so the wrench will go in it. They use a ratchet with no socket.

For the left final drive, you need to remove the drawbar to get to the plug.
The housings are the same, facing opposite directions on the Cub.

They hold 1 3/4 Pints of oil, that's less than 1 quart.

I don't know why the drawbar in your pic has 1 bolt with a square head, hopefully the hole is not damaged.
The drawbar is supposed to have 4 of the tapered head bolts to hold it on.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for the bolts.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/gb/324fp.htm

[Bob McCarty]

If any of the fall Cubfests are held and you are able to attend one with your Cub, I can bring brake lining, rivets and a rivet tool to reline the bands. If they are just oily, the oil can be burned off. I guess Cecil's Cubfest is closest to you if you can attend and don't mind waiting that long. You might want to look at several of the "how to's" to see what is involved in pulling the final and checking the brake band and drum. The left side is easier as the shaft is short, so if you decide to do it yourself, start with that one.

[marshall]

Your brake bands may be okay but oil soaked

I was wondering about this given how much oil I'm seeing in the area. Any way I can easily check this without the full project of getting bands off?

[Bob McCarty]

You might be able to see their condition looking through the rod slot with a strong flashlight. The fix is still to pull off the final though.