Bought a new Cub today

[k hutchins]

Did a little more work today. As l get farther into it, l discover more to work on, before l can attempt to start it up.
Today l discovered that the bottom of the battery box is completely rotted out. The mounting bolts were so eaten away l couldn't get a wrench to bite. Can someone tell me what size of those bolts. I'm probably leaning toward drilling and retapping. I'll try just drilling the head off first then easy-out, but have never had much luck with that.
Any suggestions are welcome.

I'm also making a new wire harness as it has a home made one now that is too short so it can't be placed in hangers on the hood.

A PO had cut the fan shroud top and bottom, so l made patches and pop riveted them in place.
More pictures soon.

Hutch

[Bob McCarty]

Craftsman (and others) make a bolt extractor kit where the socket bites into the head or stub to give a grip. I'd avoid the easy-out. If it breaks you've got a worse problem. If you have a torch, use that first. If you have a welder, weld a nut onto the stub. It may take several attempts. I can't find the size in the parts manual, but can check one tomorrow if no one else replies first.

[Dale Finch]

3/8 -16 x 3/4 with lockwashers.

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is the Cub parts manual, if you don't have it.
The bolts used to hold something on are usually listed in the description below the parts pic.

http://www.farmallcub.info/galleries/ci ... _Rev_3.asp

[k hutchins]

Thanks guys
I don't have a welder, so l'll probably go the drill and retap way.
I'll let you know how it goes.

[k hutchins]

New wire harness done and fan shroud repaired

Fuel tank cleaned out and inside screen filter installed just in case

Sediment bowl cleaned and new synthetic screen

Just some of the work being done getting ready for start up.

[k hutchins]

While the hood was off l replaced the wiring front to back and replaced/made new clips. Including the one under the platform. I also had to replace the battery box. The bottom was completely rotted out. The tool box too, but that can wait.
Still need to change/check fluids and get my new fuel line installed. Then l'll find out if it has all been worthwhile.

[Dale Finch]

Looks like you are making good progress! At this rate you'll hear yours running before I get mine going...

Are you going to smear mud on that pretty, new battery box so it blends in better?!
Have fun and good luck!

[k hutchins]

Dale
Either that or maybe clean up the area around it, but there is a lot of rust in that patina lol.
In truth looks are secondary to me. I bought this one to put into service so that l can get my original 48 into the shop for a much needed and overdue rebuild.

[k hutchins]

Well, 2 steps forward, one step back.
Hooked up the new fuel line today, fresh oil in the crank case, primed for the oil pump, 1/2 gal of fresh gas in the tank, ready to attempt a start.
Choked it for 2 cranks (yes cranking by hand as l haven't replaced or charged the old battery). Then choke off 1-2-3 cranks, nothing. Crap, forgot to pull the switch out. 1-2-3 cranks, again nothing. Not even a cough or sputter. I continued cranking while making checks, and minor throttle adjustments. Still got nothing.
I know l had spark from coil when l installed the mag and timed it, but being as l'm working solo, l can't pull a plug and see if it's firing while cranking.
I got a set of pts and a condensor, l'll probably just change them out, reset everything and then try again. In the mean time l'm attempting to charge the batt.. I say attempting because my 6v charger is as old as my tractor. Fingers crossed.
Oh l also noticed that my fuel shut off is leaking. I know it's been discussed on here before, but what's the solution for the pin not seating?

[Glen]

Hi,
If you remove the end plate from the magneto to get to the points, you could check the timing marks for the rotor, and it's drive gear.
You need to remove the cover that holds the rotor on, 2 screws hold it on.
Then while you are there, you should clean out the old grease, and put new grease on the gears.
Below is a pic of the timing marks.

It's better to turn the engine until it's at number 1 TDC before removing the plate, you might need to turn the engine slightly with the fan to get the movable point on the high place of the cam.
Don't turn the engine much with the plate off, you can lose the timing.

Below is a pic of the timing marks.

If you meant the gas strainer leaks from the shut off handle, and drips on the clutch housing, try tightening the nut that the handle shaft goes through, it might only need a little tightening.
If they are tightened too much, it makes the handle hard to turn.

[k hutchins]

Thanks Glen
I put a new rotor in when l installed the mag. I noticed the old one was missing a tooth. I'll triple chk the alignment, but l doulble chkd it when l installed it. I regapped the old pts but didn't file them, so that's probably where l'll start. Since l have new pts and condensor l'll probably just change them out.
I hadn't thought about tightening the retainer nut because l snugged it pretty good when l cleaned it all up. Actually had to back it off a bit to turn the handle for the pin. May have gone too much.

Thanks for the input.

[k hutchins]

Ready to get started

As l started to break down the front of the mag l decided to take Glen's advice and chk the alignment of the rotor. Sure enough it was 180* off. Having discovered that I decided that redoing the pts and condenser probably wasn't necessary. So l just dressed and regapped the pts, then put it all back together.
I reinstalled it back on the tractor, timed it, and with fingers crossed attempted a start.
Switch on, full choke for 2 cranks, it coughed. Choked off, the next crank she started right up and purred like a kitten, even without a muffler.
We have life! Thank you Glen

[Bob McCarty]

Nothing like hearing a Cub come to life after it's been sitting for a while.

[k hutchins]

Now onto the next issue.
Evidently l primed the oil pump well enough because while it was running it spewed 1/2 qt of oil out of the filter can.
New filter and gaskets, so here is the question.
Does the small gasket go under the top or on top under the bolt head?
My original '48 has the old type pot metal cover and l've never had this problem before.
I also believe my fuel leak at the shut off is due to not having a cork gasket for the bowl. I thought the edge of the new synthetic screen would work. Guess l'll have to cut a new one.

Hey it's a good day so far. WE HAVE LIFE!