Bought a new Cub today

[Bob McCarty]

On top under the bolt head. I have found that over tightening with a rubber gasket can cause it to squish out on one side and leak there.

[Dale Finch]

Bob, I really like that word SQUISH!

There's a name for words that give a picture to their meanings...but can't think of it now...

[k hutchins]

Dale, l sent you a PM

[k hutchins]

Thanks Bob, l'll pull it and see if l can determine where it's coming from. The recess in the cover was full, so l assumed that the small gasket was the culprit. Tightened it an 1/16th of a turn and restarted it. Now it appears to be coming from either the back side or the pressure gage. I`ll pull it and add some permatex to the threads just in case.

[Don McCombs]

You mean this copper one?

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/287fp.htm

[k hutchins]

Yes that's the one. It came with the new filter, but having the old style cover l've never dealt with it before.

[Glen]

Hi,
The 1st style of oil filter cover, the soft metal cover, was supposed to use the copper washer under the bolt head also.

Below is a page from the 1949 Cub operator's manual, it shows the copper washer under the bolt head in the lower pic on the page, it is C in the pic.
Paragraphs 4 and 8 tell about it being there.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-15.jpg

If you can't get the washer to seal, sometimes I have needed to use a little oil resistant sealer on both sides of it, when putting it together. Use solvent and remove all oil from where the sealer will be, and dry the parts, before putting the sealer on.

It also says it was used on all years of Cubs in TM Tractor's listing, that Don posted above.

[k hutchins]

Ok, spent a little more tinkering time today.
I believe l got the oil leak from the filter housing fixed. Stole a gasket from a new filter. Everything seems fine now. The filter l put in must have come with a defective gasket.
I also by trial and error was able to fix the fuel bowl leak. I cut a new cork gasket, installed it, still leaked. Pulled it apart, removed the synthetic screen l got from Steiner, put it back with my homemade gasket, no more leak. Stick with the regular metal screen folks. The synthetic has a ridge frame around the edge that doesn't let a regular cork gasket seat.
Also installed an old recharged battery. Basically l just wanted to check the starter. It fired right up.
Checked my amp meter as l needed to check for charging, then check wiring for lights etc. since l made a new wire harness. Lights work, but the needle is all over the place. I'll have to do some more tinkering with my 4 position switch and connections.
Question
There are two studs on the top of the generator. From all the diagrams and pictures l went over, the one on the left as you're looking from the seat end connects to the ammeter. The other one connects back to the switch. Could someone let me know if l interpreted the info correctly? Otherwise l'll have to pull my other hood to dbl chk.
Thanks

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is the wiring diagram for Cubs with the cutout, or Relay, IH called it, on top of the generator.
This was used before Cub serial number 115403.

The A post on the gen is connected to the Gen post on the Relay.

The F post on the gen is connected to the resistor on the charge and light switch, the diagram shows.

The 2nd pic below, from TM Tractor, is the 4 position charge and light switch used with the Relay system, the resistor is at the bottom of it.

TM Tractor has a new screen for the gas strainer, if you need one.

[k hutchins]

Thaanks Glen, that's the most comprehensive diagram l've seen. I'll dbl check my connections.
I know TM has one, but to get just that at this point is cost prohibited. The shipping is more than the item. I still have the new "in tank" screen filter that will do until l need something else.
Thanks again for the diagram.

[k hutchins]

Got a little time this morning (without it being 90+) to work on the Cub some more.
I dbl chkd my wiring to the switch, and sure enough l had the wire from the F terminal in the wrong spot. Moved it to where it belonged, and every thing seems correct now without the ammeter needle jumping all over. Thanks Glen for the diagram.
Drained the steering box on the bolster and it was full of water and sludge. I'll have to get some kerosene to rinse it out before refilling it. Yes l did remember to clean the "breather" hole in the plug.
I also lubed the fan hub.
Pulled the fill/inspection plug for the trans, and saw "choclate milk" in the bottom. That will need to be drained and refilled still.

One issue today was that when l started it. It would start right up and would run for a minute ot 2 then die. It then wouldn't restart without the choke. As soon as l turn the choke off it would sputter and die. I pulled the bowl drain plug and have good gas flow. When l put it back in and tried it again, my battery was dead and l didn't feel like cranking it today. So l'll wait until the battery charges to go further.l'm thinking maybe something got into the jet/orfice.

Anyone else have in put about fuel flow, l'm open to suggestions. It ran great initially, but after fixing the oil leak, fuel bowl leak, and wiring issues. Now it doesn't want to stay running.

[Bob McCarty]

I know this carb was a rebuilt from JP. However, the float height/drop may not be correct. If you haven't opened an IH carb before, be sure and pull the two halves straight apart or you'll snap off the thin idle tube. You also want to remove the main jet and run a small copper wire and carb cleaner through the orifice to make sure it's not clogged.

[k hutchins]

Thanks Bob. I'll start with the main jet. I'm hoping l don't have to pull the carb.
I'm a little concerned about my new "in tank" filter screen might be too fine, but l am getting good flow.

[Glen]

Hi,
NAPA had a new gasket and screen for the gas strainer, the last time I checked. I don't have the numbers for them.
You might have to measure the size of the gasket and tell them. I guess you don't have the screen to measure.

[k hutchins]

Ok carb guys l need some help.
So l checked and cleaned the main jet per previous posts, fine wire and blew it out. Then reinstalled it. Gas on, switch on, choked. It started, but as soon as l turn the choke off, it will run great for 30-40 sec then dies like it's not getting fuel. Time to pull the carb.
Disassembled carb, checked the flaot vs needle, all appears good. Measured float drop, 3/16" on the nose from what l can tell by eye with a rule.
What am l missing guys and girls. When l first got it up and running it did great except l had a fuel leak at the bowl (fixed), and an oil leak at the filter gasket (fixed), electrical problem according to ammeter (fixed). I did nothing different with the carb or any governor settings while fixing the other things. What am l missing.
I initially installed an in tank screen filter, but the tank is clean and my fuel level should be high enough. As a matter of course l pull the bottom plug on the carb bowl, and have good flow, but when it starts, it quits like l forgot to turn the gas on. Burns what is in the bowl then dies.

Looking for suggestions to be able to proceed.
Thanks in advance