Bought a new Cub today

[Don McCombs]

Here's what the float should look like. Yours does not appear to be reversed.


Photo courtesy TM Tractor Parts

Here's the way the adjustment should look. It's clear that yours is adjusted too low. Note that the measurement is taken without the gasket installed. Proper adjustment requires that you use a combination of bending the little tab and bending the large tab adjacent to the float body. It takes a little trial and error.

[Gary Dotson]

I've seen that situation when trying to use the needle and seat from a Tisco kit, it lowers the float so much, you cannot adjust the float even close to correct. Show us your needle & seat.

[Gary Dotson]

I went back and re-examined your photos, I'm pretty sure that's the problem.

[Stanton]

Not trying to throw an additional "wrench" in the works, but there are a couple threads in the How To Forum that may provide you some good info:

Adjusting a Carburetor Float

and

How to Check the Fuel Level in a Carburetor

I've done that second one and keep a brass fitting and tubing around so if I ever wonder where my fuel level is, I can find out and make adjustments.

Hope this helps.

[k hutchins]

Thanks Don, and everyone else.
I took my own advise and readjusted (bent) the float up on it's arm so it doesn't touch the top when needle is closed, and when it's down and the needle open, the bottom of float (by measurement) should not hit the bottom of the bowl. Reassembled it, rotated the carb in my hand and low and behold, l can hear it functioning inside. I couldn't before the adjustment.
Hopefully l'll get it reattached today and see if it solved the problem. Then onto the next problem.
My shut off is not shutting off the fuel. When fully closed, l'm still getting a slow drip from the line.

Anyone have a quick fix for that? Isn't there a small O ring on that needle? I know l'll have to drain the tank, but l'm hoping l can do it without removing the whole strainer assembly.

Thanks again for the input everyone.

[k hutchins]

Thanks Stanton, wish l had seen that first post yesterday, but great minds think alike because l came to the same conclusion and adjusted the angle in the first pic. All seems right. Just need to reinstall and try it now.

[Don McCombs]

Is the leak running through the fuel line and resulting in a drip out of the carburetor or dripping externally at the fuel line/sediment bowl connection?

[k hutchins]

With tthe carb off, it's dripping from the fuel line at the carb end. I even emptied the sediment bowl yesterday. So it 12 hours, it has dripped enough to fill the bowl, then travel through the line to drip.
If the float and needle work properly the carb shouldn't leak, but l prefer a fully functioning shut off.

[Don McCombs]

I've seen that situation when trying to use the needle and seat from a Tisco kit, it lowers the float so much, you cannot adjust the float even close to correct. Show us your needle & seat.

While brushing my teeth this morning, I also wondered if that could be a contributing factor. I often do my best thinking while brushing my teeth. At any rate, Gary beat me to getting it posted.

[Don McCombs]

With tthe carb off, it's dripping from the fuel line at the carb end. I even emptied the sediment bowl yesterday. So it 12 hours, it has dripped enough to fill the bowl, then travel through the line to drip.
If the float and needle work properly the carb shouldn't leak, but l prefer a fully functioning shut off.

If it's an original bowl, there's no o-ring. Just metal to metal contact. It needs to be fully open or fully closed, though. I think that's called back seating. You can disassemble the valve and maybe try to lap the two surfaces. But, it's probably time to replace the bowl.

[Eugene]

I've seen that situation when trying to use the needle and seat from a Tisco kit, it lowers the float so much, you cannot adjust the float even close to correct. Show us your needle & seat.

I have had problems with the needle valve and seat in several carburetor kits. Mostly, the seat is a different length than the original.

From one of my very old posts.

I test the carburetor on the bench during assembly. Top half of carb only. Hose barb on carb inlet and plastic hose. Fill the hose with rubbing alcohol to test the needle valve and seat area for leaks and problems.

[Dale Finch]

Ahhh...thanks, Eugene, for reposting!! Great EASY solution. Now, if there were a similarly EASY test for the sediment bowl!

[k hutchins]

Sorry Don
Lap? If that means disassembling and making sure both are clean and free of burrs. I can try that, but for us non mechanic types could you explain please?

[k hutchins]

Hooray
It runs

Everyone for your input. After re-re installing it, l started it and it took right off and purred. No runs, no drips, no errors. Ran the throttle up and down a few times, the governor seemed a bit sluggish. So l operated the linkage by hand a few times. As it got warm, l throttled up a couple notches at a time and the governor picked right up. I guess l should have spent a bit more time on it when the hood was off, but everything seemed to move freely, so l didnxt bother. Once it got used to the idea of working again, it seemed fine. In total l ran it for 5-10 minutes. Enough for the manifold to start getting hot. Then shut her down.
Before l hooked up the fuel line l drained enough gas so it wasn't a problem, and pulled the shut of stem. It seemed a bit dirty, so l used some fine steel wool to clean the end, then used a rag on the end of a screwdriver to clean the seat. I don't think it solved the problem because once l got everything back together and hooked up the fuel line l put maybe a half gallon of gas in and saw it dripping in the fuel bowl befor l opened the valve. If it become a problem, l'll have to tackle that issue on another day. I just wanted to make sure the carb issue was fixed, and it appears to be.

again for all the you guys rock

[Eugene]

Now, if there were a similarly EASY test for the sediment bowl!

Test no. Fix yes - - ball valve.