Final drive/rear axle housing access

[padre]

I note that the drawbar needs to be removed to get at the left final drive. I have a Woods 42, belly mounted mower. I presume I would have to remove that attachment to the drawbar as well. Do I have to remove the rear wheel to service the final drive? I will appreciate any directions anyone is willing to share.

[Bigwally30]

That depends on what you need to do. Oil change would just require to drop the lower pan. Bearing or seals you will need to remove the final
drive housing and anything connected, draw bar, fender, and anything else attached to the final drive. If you are doing seals or bearings you will
need to pull out the lower shaft and do some pressing of the bearing.

[Jim Becker]

I've never tried to get at the filler/level plug in a final drive with a Woods mower in place. However, this is probably what I would try:
- Put a jack or other support under the cross bar of the mower mule drive.
- Unclamp the left end of the mule drive from the left drawbar bracket.
- Remove the 3 bolts from the drawbar bracket (2 tapered head bolts and the 1/2" bolt through the drawbar).
- Rotate the drawbar bracket out of the way. (It may fight if it is pinched between the housing and one of the other parts.)

[padre]

Thank you both. Yes, it is to check level and change oil as necessary.

[Dale Finch]

Heck, I'll trad jobs with you...I want to service mine and it has a fast hitch on!!

Think I'll wait until I see if it runs!

[Don McCombs]

Remove the final drive pan. Clean sludge out of pan. Clean gasket mating surfaces of final and pan. Straighten pan flange as needed. Stick gasket to pan with Indian Head Shellac. Let set up. Coat other gasket surface with Indian Head. Fill pan to within 1.5 inch of top with gear oil. Carefully bolt pan back onto final.

[padre]

Thanks, Don. That is encouraging. I'll give that a try.

[Glen]

Hi,
I'm not sure if you know, the final drive oil pans have gaskets to seal them to the final drives.
If you remove the pans to change the oil, you may need new gaskets.
Sometimes the old gaskets tear when removing the pans.

Below is a listing for a new gasket at TM Tractor.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fr/125fp.htm

Using a non hardening sealer on the gaskets helps seal them better, they might have less seeping over time.

[padre]

Thanks, Glen, you are always helpful. And to all the other friends.

Coming back to part of my original question: do I have to remove the rear wheel? OR would it be better to remove the rear wheel? I about to examine the tractor this morning so I may find my own answer.

[Bill Hudson]

Thanks, Glen, you are always helpful. And to all the other friends.

Coming back to part of my original question: do I have to remove the rear wheel? OR would it be better to remove the rear wheel? I about to examine the tractor this morning so I may find my own answer.

For me, I find it much easier to remove the wheel. Getting up and down from the floor/creeper has become a real chore! With the wheel off, I can do the job easily from the comfort of a stool.

Bill, "GIG'EM!!!"