Oil filter gasket

[larryfoster]

I just realized I haven't been here in a long time and I'm embarrassed.

Just changed Betsy's oil and filter.
Having a dickens of a time keeping the gasket in place for the filter and the oil pours out of the canister.

Can I use some kind of Permatex to tack the gasket in place or is there a better way.

Thank you for your help, as always.

[Stanton]

Welcome back.

As long as it was gas/oil resistant, don’t know why not.

[inairam]

I look over everthing before I did Permatex.

I have never had a problem.

Maybe something is chipped or you have the wrong gasket?

[Don McCombs]

I find that a rigid cork or paper gasket works much better than the flimsy rubber ones that come with the filters.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/136fp.htm

[Jim Becker]

Try this:
1. Make sure both sides of the gasket and the contact area on the block and the cap are all completely clean and dry. Do not oil them.
2. Install the cap and bolt, bringing the bolt down to just barely touch the cap.
3. Hold the bolt from turning and rotate the cap to find the loosest fit.
4. Bring the bolt down to the cap again and again rotate the cap to the loosest fit.
5. Finish tightening the bolt.

If this doesn't work, you can try the Permatex. I believe there are heavy paper gaskets for that location that will not stretch.

You might want to check that your pressure regulator valve isn't sticking. How much oil pressure is showing when it blows out?

[larryfoster]

Thanks for all the suggestions.
I may try them all until I get it.

I'll let you know

Jim, I didn't get to the point of checking pressure before I shut it off.
It was fine prior to changing the filter.

[larryfoster]

Jim, I just re-read your instructions.
I was trying to put the gasket on the cap and not the housing.
When I get back from errands I'll try it as you suggest

[Jim Becker]

. . .I was trying to put the gasket on the cap and not the housing. . . .

I'm not sure that detail will matter. But I have definitely cured a leak by rotating the cap as described.

[larryfoster]

I think I got it.
(Cautiously optimistic)

Jim. FYI, the oil pressure gauge is about 3/4.
I'm down about 1/2 quart at the moment

[BigBill]

You bring back memories of my changing element oil filters in my younger days as a kid. A little grease will hold the gasket inplace. “If” the old gasket stays in the cover nicely don’t touch it, replace the filter and put the cap back on. If the old gasket isn’t cracked. My 55 Willy’s has this type of oil filter too.

[Jim Becker]

. . . A little grease will hold the gasket inplace. . . .

That's OK for some cap styles, generally an invitation to trouble with a Cub.

[BigBill]

With the rubber gaskets on valve covers I use 3 m weather stripping adhesive on one side on the valve cover. This allows us in the future to remove the cover, adjust the valves and put the cover back on without replacing the gasket.

[larryfoster]

I think I'm going to invest in one of these for the next time.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/136fp.htm

Those rubber gaskets are too flimsy

Also drained the tranny and flushed.
Replaced with new oil.

Little grease later today and she's good to go again.

While I still have all the implements, all I ever use her for is belly mowing.

[Glen]

Hi,
The 2 final drive oil levels should be checked too, if you haven't checked them lately.
They hold 1 3/4 Pints of oil, that's less than 1 quart. If they get too low, it can damage the parts in them.
The operator's manual tells how to check them.
You have to remove the final drive oil pans to change the oil.

If you have a rotary mower under the Cub, you need to remove the rear drive, and the drawbar to get to the final drive oil level plug on the left side.
The right side plug is ahead between the implement mounting holes.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of a final drive housing, showing the oil level plug at the left side.

[larryfoster]

Thanks, Glen.
I was thinking about that

I don't recall that they were ever checked since I've been using the tractor