Rear Axle on 1955 Cub

[bookman51]

Working on my 1955 Cub which is leaking badly around both rear axles. I have the right rear axle off. How do I get the right rear axle out of the right rear axle housing assembly. I have taken off the rear axle nut. Don't want to break something pounding on something, but there is a seal and gasket on the right side that probably needs replacing. Manual says "Press the rear axle out of the inner bearing...." Can it be pounded out, and does it have to be pressed back on. No hydraulic press. Thanks in advance.

[Barnyard]

Are you sure it isn't leaking because the trans might be over full. The rear seals are meant to keep dirt out, not to keep oil in. An over full trans will leak out the axles and cause you to think the seals are bad.

[Glen]

Hi,
It sounds like you are replacing the seal on the lower shaft, where the rear wheel attaches to.
It's better to press the axle shaft out, like the manual says, but people on here have said they hammered them out.
Protect the axle threads if you hammer it out. Put the nut on the axle some, and hold a piece of thin aluminum there for the hammer to hit. If you get it to move, you'll have to remove the nut, use the aluminum, and don't hit the threads.
Another person can hold the piece of aluminum in place for you, holding it with pliers. Then their hand is not near where you are hammering.

An automotive engine shop might be able to press the shaft out, and then in again, with the new seal in place, if you take the final drive to them.

The upper oil seal in the housing, by the brake drum should be replaced too. If they leak, it can get oil onto the brake.
Remove the brake drum, brake drum shaft key, and the round cover, then the shaft will slide out the hole. Slide the shaft in the direction that would be outboard from the Cub, if the final drive was on the Cub, then you don't need to remove the snap ring from the bearing.
Then you can get to the seal from the backside with a punch, and hammer it out.
Maybe you have done this already.

There is another oil seal in the transmission, to replace it, you have to remove the seat post, battery box, and loosen the platform, so it will raise up at the rear. Then remove the right axle extension.

The left side is easier to replace the trans seal, there's no extension there.
TM Tractor has new seals, there are pics of them there.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor, showing the seal in the final drive.

[bookman51]

Thanks for the advice. I suppose the transmission could have been overfilled at some point. I do not know the entire history of the tractor, but it has leaked a lot on both sides. I already have the seals, gaskets and brake bands. I have taken the axle tube off to get to the seal coming out of the axle, but I have not taken that seal out yet. The lower seal is the one I am trying first. I just want to make sure I am not going to break something getting the axle out. So far it is being pretty stubborn. I have a "real" mechanic (as opposed to me) coming by on Monday to follow up on an engine overhaul. If I do not have it out by then, perhaps he can give me further ideas. Getting it pressed out by a machine shop or the local Case-IH dealer is a viable option. I did the seals on a Farmall A probably 20 years ago but probably forgot some the technics I used then....don't do this everyday!! Thanks again.

[Don McCombs]

Way back before I had a press, I needed to rebuild a Cub PTO. Took the whole assembly to the local independent auto mechanic where I get the vehicles serviced. He pressed the bearing off and on for me. No charge. You might explore something similar. I can’t even begin to imagine how much the CaseIH dealer would charge you.

[bookman51]

Had a real mechanic (as opposed to me) stop by this morning. I was just not pounding hard enough. With housing held by my hoist a lot of the force was dissipated by the housing swinging. Got the shaft loose. I will work on it more tomorrow. Thanks.

[bookman51]

Well I got the shaft loose and out of the housing. However, there is a bearing on it. Looks like the bearing needs to be taken off before I can get to the seal and gasket that I want to replace. I don't see anything holding that bearing in place except probably pressed on. Is that correct? Or is there something I am missing.

Thanks

[Dale Finch]

It's pressed on, and you'll need a bearing splitter to remove it. I have used a medium-priced bearing splitter and shop press to get it off.

BTW, the seal/retainers are best replaced with the assembly, since it can be very difficult to remove the seal without bending most retainers. TM Tractors carries it:
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fr/393fp.htm

[bookman51]

Finally took the piece into town to the auto repair shop I do business with. They pressed off the bearing, put in the seal and pressed the bearing back on. Took about 10 minutes. Paid mostly for use of their equipment and expertise. They thought they might ruin the bearing if they had to heat it but they did not have to heat it. Told them I would see them in a few days when I get to the other side. Been a learning experience.