Farmall Cub

I have a new pulley for my Cub 22 sickle mower but it's loose on the pto shaft even after tightening down the pinch bolt. Since the pulley is new from TM Tractor the pto splines are likely worn even though on inspection they look in good condition. The pto bearings are in great shape and there is no slop in the pto itself.

I only use the sickle mower a few times a year for my personal enjoyment. Is there a temporary fix to try to take up the slack? I know the correct fix is to replace the pto shaft which doesn't look too bad to do. But I don't want to spend the money on a new shaft for something I only use a few times a year for 30 minutes at a time. The tractor gets used for other things but the only implement I run on the pto is the sickle mower.

The pto itself runs so smoothly and nothing leaks so I'd hate to have to take the back cover off.

Specifications near the back of the Operator's Manual has the measurements for the tractor's PTO shaft.

Calipers, measure the PTO shaft and the ID of the pulley. Checking for PTO wear and difference between the PTO and pulley.

You might be able to cut some "shims" out of sheet metal and drive them in spaced around the splines.

Bob McCarty wrote:You might be able to cut some "shims" out of sheet metal and drive them in spaced around the splines.

I’ve done this before using aluminum can. I cut it out and preformed the shim around the pto shaft and then installed pulley. Not a permanent fix, mind you. But I did that with a sub par pulley. Don’t know that I would do that with a new pulley

did you put the cotter pin in the new pulley? most times I find from pulleys that had bad splines the pins were left out so they move wearing out the shaft also

My all is b drive axles are splined and they do wear so I would take the nut off and drive a few nails in the spline and put the nut back on

Eugene wrote:Specifications near the back of the Operator's Manual has the measurements for the tractor's PTO shaft.

Calipers, measure the PTO shaft and the ID of the pulley. Checking for PTO wear and difference between the PTO and pulley.

I have some calipers so when I get the chance I will measure things and see how far off they are.

Bob McCarty wrote:You might be able to cut some "shims" out of sheet metal and drive them in spaced around the splines.

I'll give this a try. I believe I have some sheet metal lying around. It would be one thing if I used the pto all the time but I only use it a few times a year. If it doesn't work I'll probably eventually just break down and get a new shaft and bearing.

tst wrote:did you put the cotter pin in the new pulley? most times I find from pulleys that had bad splines the pins were left out so they move wearing out the shaft also

Yes sir I did. I bet that's commonly missed.

tmays wrote:

Bob McCarty wrote:You might be able to cut some "shims" out of sheet metal and drive them in spaced around the splines.

I’ve done this before using aluminum can. I cut it out and preformed the shim around the pto shaft and then installed pulley. Not a permanent fix, mind you. But I did that with a sub par pulley. Don’t know that I would do that with a new pulley

I figure it's worth a shot. The new pulley might make it harder to fit the shims in but a tighter pulley is what I'm going for anyway. Thanks for the tip.

FarmerCPA wrote:

tmays wrote:

Bob McCarty wrote:You might be able to cut some "shims" out of sheet metal and drive them in spaced around the splines.

I’ve done this before using aluminum can. I cut it out and preformed the shim around the pto shaft and then installed pulley. Not a permanent fix, mind you. But I did that with a sub par pulley. Don’t know that I would do that with a new pulley

I figure it's worth a shot. The new pulley might make it harder to fit the shims in but a tighter pulley is what I'm going for anyway. Thanks for the tip.

The previous owner (PO) of my '49 FCub used a bent-over nail to secure the pulley, then welded the pulley to the shaft to prevent any wobble. [Note to posting police: If you find this repair solution is too offensive, feel free to delete it. I'll understand.]]

I'm a road mechanic for the track dept. on a railroad, a lot of times we can't shut a machine down to do a proper repair until the job is finished. I have had good luck cleaning both splines well with brake clean and smearing Rtv silicone thick on the splines so it oozes out, tighten it down wipe up the excess and let it cure, I have actually had it work for a long time when a key sheared on a pulley or drive coupling and it spun on the shaft and chewed it up. Sometimes you gotta make do to get the job done. TJ

TJ, Re: the crude PTO pulley repair on my '49. You are correct in suggesting that there are [many?] times when a quick repair is more appropriate than an elegant repair - in order to get a larger job done. Indeed, the PO's welding of the pulley has served well for the 44 years that I've owned the Cub, powering a sickle bar off the PTO - well enough that there's little incentive to replace the shaft and pulley. ~Ned

The pinch part of the pulley was way too difficult to pinch down and I was always afraid it would break. I just used thin brass shims to jam it on and then used a bolt the size of the pin holes to take out the rest of the wobble.