Cooling System Success Story

[Don McCombs]

The symptoms you describe are quite likely due to overfilling the system. The Cub system does not require filling as high as you might be used to with other systems. Let it seek it’s own level and see if it stops spurting and steaming.

[Eugene]

The symptoms you describe are quite likely due to overfilling the system. The Cub system does not require filling as high as you might be used to with other systems. Let it seek it’s own level and see if it stops spurting and steaming.

And double check the ignition timing.

[Glen]

Hi,
IHPWR, if they did a good job boiling out the engine, it doesn't need the cleaning discussed in the post before you wrote.

The 1950 Cub owner's manual tells where to fill the radiator to.
It is normal for the system to push out some coolant as the engine warms up.
When the engine cools the level should be at about the level it wants to be.
Don't keep adding water, it will push it out again.
There is probably a baffle below the filler neck, you can see below it with a light, looking to the right or left of the baffle.
Don't let the water get too low, it won't circulate. There is no water pump.
On the Cubs I have seen the level when cold should be just over the baffle.
Maybe you knew these things already.
Below is the page from the manual.
The info is at the last paragraph on the page.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2026.jpg

The ignition timing should be set right, to help prevent overheating, and so the engine makes as much power as it can.
The Cub service manual says use a timing light, if the Cub has a Battery Ignition unit.

[Gary Dotson]

It’s pretty common for a freshly rebuilt engine to run a little hot until it gets broken in. Give it a little time and light duty use to give the rings a chance to seat and see if it isn’t better.