The other day I asked the question, "is there some sort of quick-n-easy way to test the sediment bowl BEFORE you install it on the tank, where you would then need to test it with fuel. This can be a stinky, messy way to resolve leak issues, as well as a royal PITA!
Today, I was ready to install my new sediment bowl on my '50 cub. It is a Steiner Sediment Bowl purchased through Jason at DuFour Tractors, and has the L-shaped lever. It has a large knurled knob to secure the bowl, rather than the fluted original ones, but otherwise looked OK. It also came with the break-away ferrule fuel line fitting, which was nice. The bad part is that instead of the brass mesh screen, it came with the plastic-framed white one. I was skeptical about it, but decided to try it. Oh, and it has the rubber gasket...I have had good and bad results from both the rubber and cork gaskets, so decided to leave that, too.
Note: until I have everything done on this tractor, and am sure I don't have to remove the hood for a while, I have installed a barb on the sediment bowl and will use a rubber fuel line to a barb installed on the carb. Later it will be replaced with a proper steel fuel line.
I decided to try a new way to test it, though. I dug out a very small funnel I have, which fit perfectly into the inlet. With the fuel shutoff valve closed, I filled the funnel with water. It worked perfectly...not a drop of water passed into the bowl.:
Then I opened the valve, and water came right down into the bowl.
However, as I added more water to the funnel, filling the bowl, the bowl gasket began leaking. I opened it up, and the first thing I noticed when I removed the gasket, was that the impression in the filter side of the gasket was not symmetrical. This may have been due to the bail being off-centered when tightened, or the screen itself not being centered...not sure.
But the next thing I saw after removing the screen was that its outside diameter was almost equal to the gasket, and was relatively quite thick, which I think prevented sealing.
So I grabbed one of my new brass screens from Steiner's:
The problems I have had with this group of screens from Steiner's are that they are not cut symmetrically around the center hole, and the diameters are slightly too large, keeping the gasket from sealing. So I trimmed this one down before installing it.
NOTE: The markings are not mine...they were already there
After reassembling it, I did another water test, and no leaks! Now to put it on the tank, and see if I remain lucky!!
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Sediment Bowl testing
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- Dale Finch
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Re: Sediment Bowl testing
I also have the Steiner sediment bowl (the one with the original style shutoff) and figured I’d chime in with my experience. I installed the sediment bowl and had no leaks. I didn’t take it apart out of curiosity, I just installed it.
After 2 years I removed the glass bowl, screen, and bale because I did a hydraulic rebuild without removing the hood and needed the room.
When I put it back in, it leaked bad around the gasket. It has the strainer with the hard plastic around it. I could’t figure out how the plastic strainer edge sandwiched between the metal and the rubber gasket could seal properly. Anyway, after a few attempts I gave up and bought the strainer and screen kit sold at Tractor Supply. $4.99 made in USA.
The strainer kit is the one for IH with a 2” OD cork gasket. The strainer has a smaller hole in the center that needs to be enlarged. I trimmed it as best as I could and then pushed a Sharpie through it to round it out to the size of the original.
The new cork gasket actually fits in the housing better than the original rubber one. Not too tight but a nice fit that stays in place on the tractor. The original rubber gasket falls out if not held in place.
So far, no leaks. The thickness of the original gasket plus the plastic strainer is double that of the Tractor supply gasket but there are enough threads on the part that tightens the bowl in place that it works fine. Steiner has a thicker gasket ABC039 that should fit fine.
Working on it was so much easier with a gasket that doesn’t fall out. The cork gasket appears to be just a tiny bit larger in diameter. The original gasket is slightly distorted into a concave shape due to tightening, and moves around a little bit inside the housing. I’m thinking that once impressions are made in the rubber, with the movement of the gasket you can’t get the bowl back into the old grooves but that just a guess. A 2” gasket is what you need.
After 2 years I removed the glass bowl, screen, and bale because I did a hydraulic rebuild without removing the hood and needed the room.
When I put it back in, it leaked bad around the gasket. It has the strainer with the hard plastic around it. I could’t figure out how the plastic strainer edge sandwiched between the metal and the rubber gasket could seal properly. Anyway, after a few attempts I gave up and bought the strainer and screen kit sold at Tractor Supply. $4.99 made in USA.
The strainer kit is the one for IH with a 2” OD cork gasket. The strainer has a smaller hole in the center that needs to be enlarged. I trimmed it as best as I could and then pushed a Sharpie through it to round it out to the size of the original.
The new cork gasket actually fits in the housing better than the original rubber one. Not too tight but a nice fit that stays in place on the tractor. The original rubber gasket falls out if not held in place.
So far, no leaks. The thickness of the original gasket plus the plastic strainer is double that of the Tractor supply gasket but there are enough threads on the part that tightens the bowl in place that it works fine. Steiner has a thicker gasket ABC039 that should fit fine.
Working on it was so much easier with a gasket that doesn’t fall out. The cork gasket appears to be just a tiny bit larger in diameter. The original gasket is slightly distorted into a concave shape due to tightening, and moves around a little bit inside the housing. I’m thinking that once impressions are made in the rubber, with the movement of the gasket you can’t get the bowl back into the old grooves but that just a guess. A 2” gasket is what you need.
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