50-T motor for a wood Planer

The Cub Club -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
conservationman
Posts: 18
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2019 7:41 pm
Zip Code: 53126
Tractors Owned: 1947 case VAC
1961 Ford641
1948 c-60 from 50-T Baler
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: S.E.WISCONSIN

50-T motor for a wood Planer

Postby conservationman » Fri Aug 14, 2020 9:26 pm

I brought this 24" planer and C60 motor home last fall and am already to get to work on it.

(viewtopic.php?f=1&t=105780

I've been reading as much as i can since then but I have a few questions for you all before I dig into it. First some more pictures.

I drained the oil and drained & cleaned the filter housing.
Pulled the plugs ( came out easily) you can see they're not so bad for sitting 15 years.

The Gas tank is clean and dry - looks to be in great shape

The radiator holds water up to the point you see below and leaks if I fill higher. What are to two holes and one tube sticking out into the radiator cap "housing"..I also need to find a cap.

The air cleaner was full of something that looks like oil soaked grass ( not metal). After I pull that all out what do I fill it with?

I have pictures of the valves but will try to get better ones before i post them. I am thinking of checking the valve setting before I try to start it. Do I need to remove the manifolds to adjust the valve lash?

I have a list of more thing to do but I thought I'd start with a few questions for you.
Thanks In advance. Wally
Attachments
spark plug .jpg
right side.jpg
radiator top.jpg
left side 2.jpg

Eugene
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
Posts: 19591
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 9:52 pm
Zip Code: 65051
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Mo. Linn

Re: 50-T motor for a wood Planer

Postby Eugene » Fri Aug 14, 2020 9:35 pm

The air cleaner contains a material something like a brillo pad. It's not removable. Remove the air cleaner and soak it in solvent.

Sitting 15 years. Prime the oil pump - first thing. Then compression tests before you go any further.

You can adjust the valve tappet clearance without removing the manifold.

Engine free? Check for magneto click when cranking the engine over.
I have an excuse. CRS.

User avatar
Glen
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 5395
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: 50-T motor for a wood Planer

Postby Glen » Sat Aug 15, 2020 1:40 am

Hi,
If you meant the air cleaner oil cup was full of grass or dirt, clean it out. The dirt can be stuck in the bottom of the cup, and need scraping out.
There is probably a fill line made in the oil cup, fill it to there with light motor oil, when ready to put it on the air cleaner.

The air cleaner assembly may need cleaning also.
It is basically the same as the Cubs have, you have to remove it from the engine, and wash the inside of it out with kerosene.
The unit doesn't come apart. The shredded metal material is supposed to be in it.
When it is off the engine, I would hold it upside down, pour some kerosene into it, put the oil cup on, with no oil in it, cover the outlet for the pipe to the air cleaner, so the kerosene doesn't run out, and shake it different directions, to wash the material inside it.
Then remove the oil cup, and pour out the kerosene.
If you pour it in a clean oil drain pan, you can see what was in the air cleaner.
If it is still dirty inside, repeat the above, until it looks clean.

Clean out the pipe through the center of the air cleaner too.
It might need kerosene poured through it, then use a small piece of a rag folded up, and something long enough to go through the pipe. Push the piece of rag through the pipe, and out the end.
Don't use too large of a piece of rag, it can get stuck in the pipe.

Below is a page from the engine owner's manual, that I posted in the post you put the link to above.
It tells about cleaning the air cleaner.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2025.jpg

The radiator filler neck is different than Cubs have, so the cap is different.

The water level should be below the filler when the engine is cold, so the water can expand as the engine warms up. The water level will rise as the engine warms up, that is how Cubs are.

Below is a page from the engine owner's manual, telling about filling the cooling system.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2022.jpg

Below is the parts manual for the engine, the radiator is on pages 30 and 31, it gives the part number for the radiator cap on page 31.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

Below is a listing for the cap I found online, for an example, it lists the IH part number there. :)

https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/radiat ... 12117.html
Last edited by Glen on Sat Aug 15, 2020 4:20 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Jim Becker
Team Cub
Team Cub
Posts: 16358
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
Zip Code: 55319
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MN

Re: 50-T motor for a wood Planer

Postby Jim Becker » Sat Aug 15, 2020 10:58 am

conservationman wrote:. . . The radiator holds water up to the point you see below and leaks if I fill higher. What are to two holes and one tube sticking out into the radiator cap "housing". . . .

The two holes just open into the upper tank, essentially the same as the tube in the center. I suppose they are there just to prevent an air lock around the center tube. They would also prevent pressure in the system if someone managed to install some type of pressure cap. The tube is the overflow that gives excess coolant a way out. Your current coolant level looks about right. When filling the system, any that is above the tube will immediately run out the tube. If a system is filled to the tube, warming up the engine will cause the coolant to expand and the excess will run out the tube. After it cools again, the coolant will contract and end up at about the level in your picture.

You said that coolant runs out if filled above the current level. If it is doing that cold while below the end of the tube, you have a leak that needs to be fixed. If it is just running out the tube when above it, that is normal.

User avatar
Glen
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 5395
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: 50-T motor for a wood Planer

Postby Glen » Sat Aug 15, 2020 4:36 pm

Hi,
In your pic of the left side of the engine, the light is on the numbers cast in the block, I can see the date code, which tells when the block was made. It looks like the letter on the right end of the code might be S, which is 1949. I'm not sure, it is sort of hard to see in the pic.

Below is info from TM Tractor, telling what date codes are.
You can look and see what the engine date code is, sometimes the numbers and letters are hard to read, use a light to see it is helpful. :)

http://www.tmtractor.com/id/id_004.htm

conservationman
Posts: 18
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2019 7:41 pm
Zip Code: 53126
Tractors Owned: 1947 case VAC
1961 Ford641
1948 c-60 from 50-T Baler
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: S.E.WISCONSIN

Re: 50-T motor for a wood Planer

Postby conservationman » Mon Aug 24, 2020 3:31 pm

Thanks for the replys

Yes that is an "S" so it is a 49

I cleaned out the air filter, i had thought that the "grass" I saw was the "brillow pad". I don't know it got in there because the rest of the filter was clean.
I removed the tappet cover, everything was clean and the valves were loose, all were 15 -16 thousanths except the last, it was 18. I didn't adjust it thinking that something might be under the valve.
tappets sm.jpg


I changed the oil & filter . Oiled the fan and Magneto and primed the oil pump.
Checked out the rotor cap someone has been living in there!
distributer cap sm.jpg


I don't get any spark, ( new plugs) the magneto clicks. The points look good. A friend is coming over later to help out on that, I've never worked on a Magneto before.

I had to make a crank that fits onto the pully shaft, version 2 to follow.


I have a gear oil leak that seams to be coming out of the foot. I see no oil at the cover or under the block. Is that even possible?
leaky foot sm.jpg



Again thanks for the help
Wally

User avatar
SONNY
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 3876
Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2006 11:26 pm
Zip Code: 61722

Re: 50-T motor for a wood Planer

Postby SONNY » Tue Aug 25, 2020 10:45 am

Never saw a cub motor on a 50-T before-----Dad had a half dozen 50-T's over the years and all of them had the good Continental motors on them as did all of the model 62 combines that he had.

User avatar
Glen
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 5395
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: 50-T motor for a wood Planer

Postby Glen » Wed Aug 26, 2020 5:57 pm

Hi,
If the ignition points are good, and have flat, shiny surfaces, the condenser, or the coil could be bad.
TM Tractor has new parts for the magneto, you can look at the pics there.

Look closely and see if the oil is running down from above somewhere. :)

k hutchins
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 629
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:48 pm
Zip Code: 48843
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
193 plow
1948 snow/grading blade
Woods 59 C3
Cub 144 cultivator
Cub 22 mower
Cub 172 one row planter
Original manuals for all the above
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: 50-T motor for a wood Planer

Postby k hutchins » Wed Aug 26, 2020 6:35 pm

If that foot is on the back end as it appears from your overall picture, my guess is a bad rear oil seal.
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over. :?:

conservationman
Posts: 18
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2019 7:41 pm
Zip Code: 53126
Tractors Owned: 1947 case VAC
1961 Ford641
1948 c-60 from 50-T Baler
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: S.E.WISCONSIN

Re: 50-T motor for a wood Planer

Postby conservationman » Mon Sep 14, 2020 8:49 am

I had to replace the coil and I got her running. I can't start by hand, need an electric drilll to get it spining.

Looking at the rotor, timing it is 180 out from the pictures that i've seen. that is, the rotor is on so tht the marks do not line up. But are 280 out.

How can it be running? I could see that it might work if the wiring was 180 out but plug one is where itis marked on the rotor ( on thetop ) and the firing order is 1,3,4,2
wally


  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Return to “Farmall Cub”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Don McCombs and 2 guests