Update on my "new '51

[Dale Finch]

Sheesh! I have 3 restored cubs, that I worked on separately over about a 10-year period. Now I have 2 "new" ones at my house, that I will go over thoroughly for maintenance work, but will NOT "restore" them or paint them purdy! Only work clothes! Also, I had just flipped a 3rd one that I had gone through. So my point here is, it seems like I have changed fluids, repaired bolt holes, swapped finals, etc, etc, etc, on a dozen tractors, and if not for the photos I take, and the log I keep of all maintenance done, I would never know the status of each tractor's work!!! That said...

Yesterday I decided to go ahead and drain the radiator while the '51 was home. Was SO tempted to just send it out to the farm as is, mainly because the drain plug was going to be a problem. I made a post about the pipe plug sockets, and this is what I would use. The 7/16" socket sort of fit the plug, but I needed to file the flats of the plug so the socket would fit all the way down, since someone had already started to round of the corners. Also, the plug was in the hole so deep, that there wasn't much sticking out to grab. To compound that problem, the socket had a raised edge that allowed it to slip. I decided to grind the socket so the face was flat, letting it seat all the way.

[Dale Finch]

I drained the radiator, and it looked fairly clean.

However, I poured some hot water through it, and it obviously had some crud in the bolster, that needed to be cleaned out.

Since this tractor will soon be getting a new front seal, and some steering assembly rebuild, I decided that I would wait to do a REALLY thorough flushing of the bolster and engine block with Arm & Hammer Washing Soda. But I did refill/drain/refill/drain the radiator several times with hot water, eventually getting it pretty clear.

This process emphasizes that we DO need to periodically (at least once in 50 years!!) clean out these guys...oil pan, final pans, tranny, steering, Touch Control and radiator. They accumulate a LOT of gunk!!

[Barnyard]

They sure get gunked up. Here is one I recently removed the radiator from.

[Dale Finch]

Bill, that one is a lot like some I've seen ...and this '51 tractor is probably the same!

[Dale Finch]

Aaaarrgggh!! I'm about to start down that slippery slope!!! I removed the hood.......


I think at the end of this day, I'll be ready for ...or... ....

[Waif]

:big what:
Aaaarrgggh!! I'm about to start down that slippery slope!!! I removed the hood.......



I think at the end of this day, I'll be ready for ...or... ....

Sure. Go ahead. And while you're at it and have the hood off anyways...

[Dale Finch]

So the new tasks begin! Yes, It's the old "while the hood's off..."

Went to NAPA for some new D21 spark plugs, a generator belt, ordered the fan belt, and a new radiator DRAIN COCK (hopefully, this will make future draining easier!).

I saw the forward oil cup cap is missing from the generator, and did a quick forum search. Looks like McMaster Carr carries replacements...is this the best source? If so, I will order a couple, but it looks like there are 2 types: threaded or non-threaded. I have not tried to remove it yet...want to wait until I find out which type it is. Also, I have measured the outside of the cup and it is 5/16", but it appears from the website that the bottom diameter is smaller. Anyone know the proper size to order?
https://www.mcmaster.com/lubrication-systems/grease-and-oil-fittings/?ref=driverlayer.com

Rear, intact cup

Screw in or push in?

Diameter of this portion of cup is 5/16"

[Eugene]

I saw the forward oil cup cap is missing from the generator.

Some used a plastic/rubber cork instead of a flap type cap.

Edit. The oil filler is most likely the pressed in type.

Another thought, find a cap that will slip over the tube.

[Mht]

The ones I replaced on mine were push in not threaded. I don’t remember if they were 3/16 or 1/4 inch. I got mine from brillman

[Dale Finch]

Ah...Brillman would probably know the right one, wouldn't they?

[ajhbike]

My radiator drain cock is eaten away and I can't get any grip on it. Is the only way to get it out is to drill it out?

[Clemsonfor]

I saw the forward oil cup cap is missing from the generator.

Some used a plastic/rubber cork instead of a flap type cap.

Edit. The oil filler is most likely the pressed in type.

Another thought, find a cap that will slip over the tube.

Yes, building off of his answer. See if you can find a rubber vacuum cap for automotive stuff. They make them for different size hoses and barbs. Id probably grind those ears off and just slip a rubber cap over that oiler hole and be done with it. BUT your OCD may not allow you to do this, and the correct police will also say that this is a terrible idea.

[Mht]

New oil cups can be easily damaged when installing. I learned this the hard way and was glad I ordered several when I did mine. A roll pin punch that fit inside the cup with the lid open does a good job installing them. I just grabbed the old one with pliers to pull it out.

[Glen]

Hi,
The oil cups just push into the generator, use pliers and turn it some, and pull it out, then you can measure the size.

[Glen]

My radiator drain cock is eaten away and I can't get any grip on it. Is the only way to get it out is to drill it out?

Hi,
The radiator housing originally has a drain plug at the bottom.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for it, you can look at the pics.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/st/3833fp.htm

If your plug is ruined, so no wrench or vise grip pliers will turn it, you will probably need to drill it out.
You will need a 3/8" pipe tap to recut the threads.

I don't know if you have drilled out broken off bolts, or plugs, much before.
Here is some info about drilling broken bolts, or plugs, if you need it.
My Dad did it this way, just a suggestion.

Grind the bolt, or plug off flat, if it is sticking up enough to get to with a grinder.
Use a good center punch and make a good size punch mark in exactly the center of the bolt, or plug.
Drill all the way through the bolt, or plug with a small size drill bit first.
Don't use one full size bit, use about 3 or 4 bits, gradually increasing the size of the hole.
You will need to look up the size drill bit to use when cutting 3/8" pipe threads.
Buy the right size bit, and use that size bit last.
Keep oiling the bits during drilling, they will probably smoke.
Pull the bits out to empty the cuttings if needed.
Keep the bits in exactly the center of the hole, don't let them wander off to the side.

The hole is upside down, when drilling it may not be easy to keep the drill in the right position.