Update on my "new '51

[Eugene]

I saw the forward oil cup cap is missing from the generator.

Before I went further, I would put a drop or two of light weight machine oil in each filler cap/tube. Then see if the generator will motor.

Want to see if the generator is worth repairing.

[Dale Finch]

Oh it works, and I did already oil it. May just put a rubber boot on the cup, as has been suggested.

Right now I am tackling a leaky touch control rod o-ring. I'll tell you now, even if some other folks have changed that o-ring without removing the block to a bench, it's NOT easier! You have to do almost the same amount of disassembly, and once on the bench, you can do a proper job, including cleaning.

I had it reassembled, with a new o-ring on the control rod and was bolting the block back down, when I realized the linkage to the control rod was on the wrong side of the stops. So tomorrow the whole thing is coming off so I can make sure it is correct. Should have done that in the first place!

[Dale Finch]

Thanks, Eugene and Clemsonfor...I already had some of those capes, that I put on the top ends of the battery hold down bolts, after one vibrated off!

Missing oil cup cap on generator

Rubber cap did the job - quick, easy and cheap!

[ricky racer]

You can still buy replacements for the lube fittings if you are interested...



https://www.mcmaster.com/lubricant-fitt ... ded-holes/

[Gary Dotson]

Keep in mind, if your generator has been rebuilt in the last 40 or so years, it almost certainly has had sealed bearings installed. No need for the oilers, anymore.

[Dale Finch]

How would I be able to tell?

[Bill Hudson]

How would I be able to tell?

Dale,
This may help https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/31335/sealed-shielded-bearings

Bill

[Dale Finch]

I guess what I meant was how can I tell WITHOUT tearing into the generator? Do you need to actually see the bearing, so you can identify it? I'm not ready to go further into the generator right now. Concentrating on getting all the leaks sealed and back out mowing before winter.

[Eugene]

My guess, still bushings. You won't know without taking the generator apart. Put two drops of light weight machine oil in each cup, just in case.

[Dale Finch]

My guess, still bushings. You won't know without taking the generator apart. Put two drops of light weight machine oil in each cup, just in case.

That's exactly what I did. I also picked out just a couple pieces of stuff from the cup, but was pleasantly surprised that it wasn't packed solid!

I'm pretty sure it will be good enough for now...

[Gary Dotson]

You really can't tell, without disassembly. Some rebuilders would either remove the oilers and plug the holes or just plug the oilers with a bit of RTV.

[Dale Finch]

Don't think this one has been rebuilt...has the same almost-no-paint patina as the rest of the tractor!

While I await parts from TM Tractors, I moved on to cleaning up the distributor. Looks like I may need to replace a seal in it...another post coming up later. Spent last night digging through the service manuals...SO much good stuff, between the Blue Ribbon Manuals and other specific Electrical Manuals.

Learned how to tell the ADVANCE on the distributor...which would have helped with my last TWIN CUB. I'll post some photos later, too!

[Jim Becker]

Now that you have it figured out:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=20827

[Dale Finch]

I am skipping a bunch of things that were done over the last week or two, because I have a problem that I need to deal with...

I had the entire Cub "finished" (at least for now), and added some gas to the fuel tank, that I had cleaned up. Now this tractor had been running fine, but had a bad Touch Control leak that seems to be fixed with a new control rod o-ring. When I turned on the fuel, the bowl needed the bail nut tighten, which I did. It was late, so I turned off the fuel valve and shut down for the night.

A few hours later, I checked it just to make sure everything was OK, since it is in my garage in my house. Turns out the bottom of the tank was wet with fuel. I wiped everything off, and it looks like there is fuel seaping from the threaded flange where the bowl screws into the tank. Right now, I'm not sure if there is a crack in that sheet metal flared piece, or if it is seaping around the threads, but it LOOKS like the former.

My question is, what would be the easiest way to repair this if it IS the flared threaded part of the tank? I plan to remove the bowl this morning, and TRY to confirm the source. Do you think I could clean the area up and "smear" some JB Weld around the outside of the tank outlet nipple and successfully seal it if the is a crack?

FYI, there is NO rust on the bottom to cause a pinhole.

[Mht]

You have nothing to lose by trying some j b weld if you determine it is a crack causing the leak. I don’t know how permanent the repair would be as cracks seem to continue to expand over time. If it is leaking from the threads try using Teflon tape and pipe dope together. A plumber I know swears by using both at the same time and never having leaks. I know that adding a little pipe dope on top of Teflon tape has solved a leak more than once for me. My gut tells me that if it is a crack like you suspect the j b weld will be a short term solution and the only permanent solution would be finding a shop that can braze or weld the crack