1948 Cub Touch C

[Plywud]

Good Evening, well I have taken the ole girl through what I had assumed as the big projets to get her where I could run around the neighborhood with some level of confidence. New clutch, carb rebuild, new brake on the right side. PTO works, touch control works in both directions, fires right up with just a short pull on the starter. Fuel tank had some rust in it from sitting dry for the last couple of years, but I'm working thru that. I have noticed some small amounts of trans type fluid on the floor. First noticed it when I had the back jacked up to work on the right side final drive. That was the first time even though I had drived it a few blocks prior to starting the brake job. Now I can see it more often having driven it more and worked the touch control a lot to remove the air bubbles from the luid change. Standing behind the tractor, looks like it leaking from something in the front left of the holding tank, looks like it has some kind of boot on it. It;s hard to see exactly because it appears behind the touch control rod and whatever that is connected too on the RSVP tank.

Any ideas?

RJ

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

The control piston, and the main piston both go in from the front of the housing, and originally have boots on them. If it is on the left side it is probably the control rod. In the Quick Links tab at the top left of the page is a ink to manuals including the touch control.

[Glen]

Hi,
If the Touch Control leaks from the front of the unit, the Control Valve o ring could be wornout, and need replacing.
The Touch Control cylinder and piston could be leaking, that is higher up than the control valve.
Use a light, and try to see if, or where it is leaking.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor showing a new Control Valve o ring, it is a Case IH part, it says. There is a pic there showing where it is.
The valve pulls out the front of the block. You don't need to remove the Touch Control head, on the rear of the block, to replace the control valve o ring.
You may need to remove the 4 bolts that hold the unit onto the clutch housing, the tubes, and the control lever rod, and turn it to the left to get the valve out. You have to lift it some, the bolt heads for the bottom cover would keep it from turning to the side. Or you can remove the unit and set it on your work bench.
Drain the system first, like the owner's manual says, remove the filler plug, then the drain plug.

Whenever disassembling a Touch Control, it should be clean. Don't allow any dirt or grit inside the unit.
If you need to replace the o ring, clean the area well, and use plenty of Hy-Tran fluid on the o ring and valve, when putting the o ring on the valve, and when putting the valve into the unit again.
Feel the area around the hole for the valve in the block, be sure it is smooth and clean.
Any roughness can cut the new o ring.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/674fp.htm

If you wanted, if you take the unit off the Cub, you could remove the bottom cover, and clean the strainer. The strainer is visible from the bottom of the unit, but can't be removed from the bottom.
It slides out the head end of the block, after removing the head.
Below is a listing for the strainer at TM Tractor, you can look at the pics and see what it looks like.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/918fp.htm

The bottom cover has many bolts, and a gasket, the gasket probably would need replacing if you took the cover off. TM Tractor has a new gasket. I would use some sealer on the gasket, it might help prevent seeping over time.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/471fp.htm

When you get it to work, remember to fill the unit the last time with the arms in the rear or down position, like the Cub operator's manual says.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the front of a Touch Control, with the rockshaft off.
The Control Valve is at the lower right, right in the pic.

I'm in Wa. too.

[Plywud]

Thank you both, I suspect that a complete overhaul will be the best course of action, that will be a winter project. Right now my goal is to get her running to the point where I can do some late season mowing on 4 acres we are in the process of closing in Prosser, Wa. My original focus was a H or M. The cub just popped up out of no where and for the money I couldn't resist. Not sure it has the horse power I will eventually need, but i guess there is nothing wrong with owning two.

[Dale Finch]

Not sure if you have "strolled" through the HOW TO section, which is well worth the time, but there are 2 posts for rebuilding the TC Block, depending on the part number of your TC, so make sure you order the appropriate Rebuild Kit.

Keys to rebuilding it are KEEP EVERYTHING CLEAN, be methodical and organized (cheap silverware tray for laying parts out in order of removal), take MANY photos, and use lots of HyTran fluid on all parts when reassembling.

For the OLDER BLOCK:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=89514
For the NEWER BLOCK:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=42857

If needed, there is also a HOW TO for the hydraulic PUMP.
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=44196

[wrz]

I just changed the control valve O ring and did not do a complete overhaul on my 57 lo boy which stopped the leak and everything is working OK. It is a lot of work just doing that but, it sure beat taring into a total rebuild. When the oil level was full it worked correctly which was why I did not consider a total rebuild.I also have owned this tractor since November 1968 and knew its history.
Wm

[Plywud]

When I changed the hydrick fluid in the touch control, I used a 5w30 fluid, couldn't find a straight 30 weight. I don't remember it leaking before the change, but could be wrong, there was so much dirt and grease on the cub, could hardly see any color anywhere?

RJ

[ntrenn]

I also did the oring on the control valve this summer. It fixed my leak. I would recommend buying the boot before you start. Aftermarket is $15 or so. Caseih was $30 + and 90 miles round trip. 4 hours to change the oring is a fair time budget.

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub Touch Control is supposed to use Case IH Hy-Tran fluid, which is light hydraulic fluid, not something as heavy as 30 wt oil.
There are other brands of hydraulic fluid, be sure it works with IH hydraulic systems before buying it.

The thicker oil might slow the leak a little, but is too thick in cooler temperatures, like in Autumn, or Winter, my opinion.