Farmall Cub

The rocker arm was completely fused to the shaft so I had to take the whole thing out to work on it. Took me a few days to get the rocker off. Cleaned it all up and replaced the oil seal. Everything is all greased up and ready to go. I kept the adjustment bolts exactly where they were but examining it I felt like that bolt was the issue. I hadn't compared it to mine yet. Thanks for the reference!

Figured I'd get back to this thread and update from there. Progress at this point the tractor is cranking and running like a top.
I had to file the bottom water neck to get it trued up, it wouldn't even begin to seal originally, but with some filing to match it better and a little silicone I got a good seal. Top needed a little silicone to stop a tiny leak but it's holding water fine now.
As from my separate post yesterday, all ignition is new and once I filed the factory coating off the point contacts it fired right up. Apparently I got the timing dead on because it cranks instantaneously without any issues. The point gap was sheer luck since I was messing with it yesterday and eyeballed it.

Problems I'm dealing with that I could use insight from everyone on:

Oil, filter, pan gasket have all been changed including the seal washer on the filter lit but it refuses to seal up. I'm still getting a little leak on the filter lid and I'm afraid if I tighten it any more it's going to break something. The kit came from TM.

Starter bendix isn't kicking back like it should. When it doesn't the tractor sounds like it's going to fly to pieces. Then it finally did for the first time and holy cow the thing is quiet as a mouse. I've had the entire starter apart. Cleaned and lubed. Everything in the assembly looks good including the spring washers. To me it looks like the bendix should come back farther but it has a hard stop machined into the worm gear where the spring pins hit and it can not possibly go back any further. I haven't seen this starter before it's a different design than my 1949 - presumably 68 because that's the year the tractor was built. It seems if I crank and then idle down it falls back and works fine.

Hydraulics aren't bleeding properly yet...or I've done something wrong in the rebuild. I've rebuilt the block and the pump. I've loosened the tube manifold at the pump and verified I have fluid in the tubes. I've opened the allen plugs at the top of the tubes and I have fluid there. It will push out (very slowly) but it won't pick up. I've been setting it to down, then back to up and pulling the cylinder up by hand to see if it would bleed but so far no dice.

That's the worst of it at this point. Thanks everyone for any hints

1st there is a copper washer under the bolt head for the oil filter cap, use a new one, it has to fit tight around the bolt, 2nd the starter drive may be bad or the teeth on the drive and or flywheel chewed up, pull the starter and check it
3rd the wave washer in the pump rebuild installed correctly and pin washer?

Try using a sealing washer like this. McMaster-Carr has them.

Hi,
Jim B. has said on here if the oil filter cover leaks, try loosening the bolt slightly, and turn the cover some, tighten the bolt and run the engine, and see if it stops leaking.
Repeat that if needed.

If you mean the copper washer under the oil filter cover bolt head won't stop leaking, I have needed to put a little sealer on the bolt washer.
I used Permanex Aviation Form A Gasket.
They sell it at NAPA here in the west.
Stir it before using, it can settle in the can sitting.

If the large gasket under cover is squishing too much, and it is rubber, people have said on here that they don't work well. They couldn't tighten the cover enough, and the rubber gasket squished out.
They said to buy the paper gasket, then you can tighten the cover without the gasket squishing out.
Below is a listing for a gasket at TM Tractor. I'm not sure if it's paper, you could ask them.
Case IH had the paper gasket in the past, they might still have it, I haven't asked lately.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/136fp.htm


The starter on a 1968 Cub should be the Delco 12 volt starter. IH changed Cubs to 12 volts in mid 1964.
The starter is different than the 6 volt starter.

Below are pics from TM Tractor.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gel ... 2v_001.htm

You could try oiling the spline the starter drive moves forward and back on. Use light motor oil.
Turn the starter gear forward and back on the spline, and see if it works without being tight on the spline.
I suppose the drive has a spline, I haven't seen the 12 volt starter in person.

Below is a page from the Cub parts manual showing the 12 volt starter.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 008-11.jpg

I would buy a flat set of feeler gauges and set the point gap, if you didn't set it with a feeler gauge.
It's important they have a .020" gap.

I would set the timing with a timing light. The Cub service manual says set it with a timing light. Then you know it is right.
The engine can start good, but the timing can be off, then the engine can have less power than it should.

Don had a good point. I think I wound up using a seal washer instead of the plain copper on my 49. It's the washer that's leaking not the rubber gasket.
Once I get the little things sorted out I'll definitely reset the gap properly. I set the timing per procedure when I put the distributor back on and I haven't changed it only the point gap when I couldn't get any fire. I had it set with feeler guages, I just wound up taking it loose trying to figure out the problem and eyeballed it when I was troubleshooting and then BOOM she got fire

The starter I had completely apart looking for the problem and put back together with light grease but not oil. I'm thinking it's just a little tight on the flywheel and stays engaged. A little more cranking and let everything break back in and it might start working right. Poor thing's been sitting out in Pop's yard for longer than I can remember which would be 10 years now.

An oil filter cover can be caved in enough to not seal.
i replaced a leaker and solved the issue.
Maybe someday I'll find a patient way to try to raise the old covers crown again , but figured that if I didn't have a replacement at hand , I'd break the original...

Your flywheel teeth reasonably clean?
I ran a mouse through a smaller tractor between the starter teeth and flywheel. Made for a tight spot where mouse jello hardened up...
Your starter bendix spring is a skinny thing. Has about all it can do to retract itself alone when clearances are just right.
You might loosen the starter bolts and be sure starter is as far from the flywheel as possible before retightening. Check the face of the starter housing , and the tractor for clean and level surface where it mates against the tractor if it's removed.

Sometimes , a couple mills or more of movement/position can be gained due to slop between a bolt and a hole before tightening. (And sometimes that's a good thing... )

On a recently purchased cub ('55 "Bernie") I had changed oil and filter and installed new cover gasket and bolt copper washer. When it was started, it seeped oil, so I tightened the bolt. This did not resolve the issue. So I removed the cover, filed the washer mating surface, the underside of the bolt head, and sanded the gasket mating surface on the cover.

Reinstalled all, snugged it down & no more leak.

The old crush washer had scored the "dealing" underside of the bolt head...filed it smooth.



This was taken before I sanded the mating edge of the cap.

Is that new washer a 1/2 inch id or

a 7/16 inch of copper washer.

The oil leak has stopped. washer finally settled into place.
My problem now is the hydraulics will not go up. Down fine, nothing up.
I can pull it in with a Crescent on the rockshaft and it's got pressure because if I push/pull against it I can't move it.
I've popped all the bore plugs again and I get fluid from each one. So I'm at a loss.

I'm not positive which washer I used, but I'm pretty sure it was like the one from the local auto parts store, with 1/2" inner diameter & 7/8" outer diameter. The thinner new one, I believe, was from NAPA, and was all they had at the time... I don't think I have used them. The 2 old washers on the left were 2 different outer diameters, but same 1/2" inner diameter.

The oil filter cap is no longer an issue. Right now I'm trying to figure out why the touch control will go down but not up

I took the entire TC block back apart today and checked every valve assembly by the parts manual diagram and the only thing I may have had in wrong was the safety valve piston (little bitty thing that looks like the clicker on an ink pen). Put it all back together and refilled and started the bleed process again. It still would push the cylinder out but it barely, sloooowwwlly tried to pull it in. Then I realized I was thinking backwards and out=up, in+down and I think I read somewhere that there's not much pressure involved there it just releases. So I hooked the deck up to it and tried again. NOTHING. I can assist it to lift but then it doesn't even drop with all that weight on it.
So now I'm wondering if I didn't put the pump together right and it's just not pumping enough pressure?

Pump is most likely. Really easy to get them wrong. There is an orifice in the down circuit to slow the downward cycle...some wise soul here notes that. I always wondered why it labored to go down...

Hi,
Below is the How To about rebuilding the Touch Control pump.

It shows 2 important things that need to be assembled right, in 2 pics.

In pic 12 the Pin Seal has to be in the hole, if the pump has one, they have said on here that not all pumps use one.
If the pump is made for it, and it is not there, they have said on here that the pump won't work.

In pic 14, the part has to be facing the right way, like the pic shows.

viewtopic.php?f=141&t=44196

I think there is a wavy washer they have said before, Ask Don McCombs or someone about it, I don't see it in the pics.

It's too bad the How To has blurred and hard to see words, it is a good How To.
Maybe one of the experts could improve it, writing the words that are blurred below the pics where needed. Many of the words can be read well.