After a month or more setting I am faced with this:

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Ruralguy57
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Zip Code: 43506
Tractors Owned: International Harvester International Cub Lo Boy & C3 Rotary Mower
Case 60 XT Skid Steer
Location: Ohio

After a month or more setting I am faced with this:

Postby Ruralguy57 » Sun Nov 08, 2020 10:14 pm

Hello,

I have not had to mow for over a month. In this part of USA it has been very dry. The International Cub Lo Boy has sit. I have not had any problems with it in the beginning of the year or even of late. It seemed to run well. Not until "after" I had refilled the aux tank like 3 times, [I ran the gas in a funnel with a mesh filter, I noticed it slowed and hardly ran. I do not think it is the gas. I always get the highest octane gas only in a 5 gallon can.

The problems are:

The rpm seems to be slower than normal
The engine seems to almost die under a load
Going up a slight incline mowing it stalls to almost stopping. If I put the clutch in, then it takes right off.

So I am wondering, Do I take off the carb and blow it out or is it the coil or both? I have not had any problems with the Cub running before, but after mowing and grinding leaves, about 3 hrs run time it started to slow. I have replaced 2 coils on the Cub in the past; one a year ago and one before that with a similar issue. Once I replaced the coil, it seemed to run a lot better. I have not touched any timing or anything so this is why I am thinking about the carb or the coil. I did remove the hose connection between the carb and the oil bath air cleaner. It was flared on the carb side. I cut off the flared section and checked the oil bath. The oil was still up and looked clean. I ran air into the opening that was connected to the oil bath and the Cub slowed down while running. So reattaching the connection of the oil bath to the hose to the carb so it was tite and did not slip off, the Cub idles ok. When a load is applied that is when it bogs.

Any suggestions on getting it to run better?

Jim Becker
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Re: After a month or more setting I am faced with this:

Postby Jim Becker » Sun Nov 08, 2020 11:16 pm

I wonder if you have a problem with the governor. Have you adjusted the linkage from the governor to the carburetor? Does the governor spring look OK or has to stretched or a hook opened? Does the L-shaped arm move freely where the top of the governor spring is attached? That arm is rarely oiled and it isn't unusual for it to stick after the tractor has been sitting.

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Glen
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Re: After a month or more setting I am faced with this:

Postby Glen » Sun Nov 08, 2020 11:20 pm

Hi,
Your info doesn't say, I guess your LoBoy is a 1957, with a Battery Ignition unit.

It could be the coil, if it is doing what it did before, and replacing the coil improved it.
You could test the spark when it runs bad, remove the center ignition wire from the cap, and hold the wire, having the end about 1/4" from a bare place on the engine. Turn on the ignition switch, and run the starter, the spark should jump about a 1/4" to metal, and be blue and strong.
A yellow spark is weak, and the engine may not run.
The coil is often the problem then.

I would set the ignition timing using a timing light. The timing being wrong can make the engine have less power.
It is not hard to time it, if you haven't done it before.

Look at what Jim said first. :)

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the arm on the governor, and the governor spring.
Oil where the cotter key is.
You can reach it looking in from the left side, by the fan. Use a light if needed. It takes time to work oil into the pivot.
Attachments
Cub gov 4.jpg
Last edited by Glen on Mon Nov 09, 2020 5:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Ruralguy57
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Zip Code: 43506
Tractors Owned: International Harvester International Cub Lo Boy & C3 Rotary Mower
Case 60 XT Skid Steer
Location: Ohio

Re: After a month or more setting I am faced with this:

Postby Ruralguy57 » Mon Nov 09, 2020 12:31 am

Hello,

I fixed the rpm link when the tractor was first brought home and nothing worked well. It took me several weeks to find out what was wrong and how to fix it. I had to actually heat up the frozen area a bit to get it to move. I did adjust the linkage at that time. I could not move it originally. I heated it and it works now where it never did. I can adjust the rpm on the side inner track from the bottom notch to about 3/4 the way up the slide. There is a spot where 1 tooth is missing. The rpm never went all the way up the track.

Ruralguy57
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Tractors Owned: International Harvester International Cub Lo Boy & C3 Rotary Mower
Case 60 XT Skid Steer
Location: Ohio

Re: After a month or more setting I am faced with this:

Postby Ruralguy57 » Mon Nov 09, 2020 12:55 am

I have replaced 2 coils:

The first coil was an IH Dealer coil and replaced shortly after I got the Cub home. The Cub just stopped dead while mowing in the north yard. When I put the coil in, and it ran for about 2 months. The second coil was replaced after going up a small incline and stopped dead in the driveway. I rolled the Cub back off the drive and went to an auto parts store and picked up the 2nd coil and replaced it. That was about a year ago, maybe less. It sort of runs the same way now.

I have kept the Cub in a concrete floor barn since I got it running over a year plus ago. It has not set outside. So nothing has been rained on. I have been away from this site dealing with 24/7 care of my parents/and paying for care in a nursing home. However, I have read a few threads on the site listing using Seafoam to help clean a carb. I was wondering if the carb maybe clogged partially, but also I wonder if the coil is going bad. I am thinking maybe running Seafoam in the gas tank. I remember to have the tractor outside. It will smoke.

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Re: After a month or more setting I am faced with this:

Postby outdoors4evr » Mon Nov 09, 2020 6:10 am

Lubricate the governor, throttle rod to the carb, and the rockshaft! These should move very freely (without binding).
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Glen
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Re: After a month or more setting I am faced with this:

Postby Glen » Mon Nov 09, 2020 6:00 pm

Hi,
The ignition points could be part of the problem, if they haven't been replace lately.
They get old and burned from use.
They have to be good so the engine will start and run good.

Below is a listing for them at TM Tractor, you can look at the pics.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/367fp.htm

Below are pages showing a Battery Ignition unit, and the points, and setting the point gap. The gap should be set to the right amount. :)

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-11.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-12.jpg

I sent you a PM.

Ruralguy57
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Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2019 11:18 pm
Zip Code: 43506
Tractors Owned: International Harvester International Cub Lo Boy & C3 Rotary Mower
Case 60 XT Skid Steer
Location: Ohio

Re: After a month or more setting I am faced with this:

Postby Ruralguy57 » Tue Nov 10, 2020 12:27 am

I did mention in another link that the distributor cap has been changed and the wires, spark plugs and the coil 2 x. The tractor has an electronic unit on the distributor that I can not change the points. The electronic unit is much like a Petronix. It was on the Cub before I bought it. In 2 other posts I have included what I have done to the tractor and some pulling photos.
I sent you a pm back Glen

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Glen
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Re: After a month or more setting I am faced with this:

Postby Glen » Tue Nov 10, 2020 2:12 am

Hi,
I see, no problem, disregard the info about the points, if it has no points. :)

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Re: After a month or more setting I am faced with this:

Postby BigBill » Tue Nov 10, 2020 2:38 am

Check the diet cap for moisture, make sure the cover and gasket is inplace under the cap.
Check the timing next. Add seafoam to the gas and oil you could have sticky valves. Seems that sticky valves and flatheads go together it’s the nature of the beast.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

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Re: After a month or more setting I am faced with this:

Postby Waif » Tue Nov 10, 2020 1:13 pm

Make sure the brakes are not engaged! (Not that I've ever left them on... A couple times.)

Lugging the engine seems to be where I find boggy performance the most.
Higher R.P.M. in first gear is where my Cubs breath and feed the best it seems.

The 47 is running hot when worked hard and gets boggy after a while. Time to check the radiator... Maybe even go beyond that and flush.

Ruralguy57
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Tractors Owned: International Harvester International Cub Lo Boy & C3 Rotary Mower
Case 60 XT Skid Steer
Location: Ohio

Re: After a month or more setting I am faced with this:

Postby Ruralguy57 » Wed Nov 11, 2020 1:18 pm

Hello,

Ok as for the radiator, I had flushed it 2 times since I owned it. The last time I flushed it, the unit came out with very little scum. This year while running the tractor, I have over 15 feet of elevation change in where I mow. So, throughout the year, I have added water to the radiator. The normal thing to do is check the water and gas before I start it. Since I have seen going down hill the water spews out the overflow as the tractor goes down about a 45 degree incline or greater. Given this, I do not think the radiator is clogged as it is a replacement radiator that was installed on the tractor before I got it and the thing keeps spitting water. When I checked on it before this last run, all I had to do was add less than a quart in it. However as it ran while sitting in the barn it dribbled out a bit of water on the floor. I try to keep an eye on it and keep it even over filled so that what blows out is out till it reaches a normal level.

As I mentioned I had an issue with the tractor after about 3 hrs of running. I think the best bet for me is the Seafoam.


Thank you all for offering advice.

Eugene
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Re: After a month or more setting I am faced with this:

Postby Eugene » Wed Nov 11, 2020 1:53 pm

Check the ignition timing and spark quality after the engine warms up.

Buy the parts to replace the electronic ignition with the points and condenser. ---Just my opinion.

If you haven't power flushed the engine block, not drain it, do so. Specially around and behind the back two cylinders. Crud builds up around the bottom of the back two cylinders, causes over heating those cylinders.
I have an excuse. CRS.

Ruralguy57
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Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2019 11:18 pm
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Tractors Owned: International Harvester International Cub Lo Boy & C3 Rotary Mower
Case 60 XT Skid Steer
Location: Ohio

Re: After a month or more setting I am faced with this:

Postby Ruralguy57 » Wed Nov 11, 2020 7:51 pm

Glen has been giving me pointers, and this is my response to him and then to all the group here. I appreciate all of your help!

Hello,

So I wanted you to be the first to know what happened today. I have an older friend who is like 78 and drones on about his 55 [a 1955 Ford]. He has changed this or that, dropped his engine, and his drive shaft, carb, you name it he has done it. He is also a tool and die man. Well I have a Snap-ON Multimeter and we went through the tractor today.

Dwell:

At low Idle, the dwell was 17degrees, and at full run rpm as far up the notch as it would go it was at 26 degrees. If it was almost there it was 21.5 degrees. The friend of mine said that the tractor was running fine.

RPM:

At low Idle, the rpm was 880-925 depending on pulling the lever back to the low position. At high rpm, it was 1100-1125.

Oil pressure:

At high Idle, the pressure he figured was 17-18


Voltage from the Alternator:

At low Idle, it was about 0 or dropped -9. At high Idle, it was just uncer "C" then dropped about 1/2 back because as he put it there was no draw on the battery.

I spoke to him about adjusting the timing, he said, "..why it is running fine....". I did put Seafoam in the gas tank while we were messing around and will do it again as I add gas to the aux tank.

He said the tractor smokes a bit but the oil was just below full after running all this summer and not adding anything and the color looked amber. He said it was not bad for as old as the tractor was, considering I mow up and down hills. I was happy the Cub is working this well.

Waif
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Re: After a month or more setting I am faced with this:

Postby Waif » Thu Nov 12, 2020 12:39 am

Keep checking the oil pressure after it's been working awhile.
Same with temp. Check same place each time. The starter or another area that won't burn you to touch. That does not indicate true engine temp. And the fan can cool some areas more than others. But you'll know if it becomes hotter than usual when checking it after lighter run time or light working shut downs after , if you check it out of habit.

Might double check your cooling fins in the radiator too for chaff and dust /dirt. Not only looking to see through them , but that the sides and bottom of openings are not built up too.
It can take a squint with a flashlight to see some build ups of fine stuff that turns dark.


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