'55 Cub "Refurbishing"

[Stanton]

You're doing a thorough job, Dale. Keep it up.

[Bill Hudson]

You're doing a thorough job, Dale. ...

Stanton,

You win the understatement of the day (maybe the week, month, year?) award. No way that Dale was going to do the job halfway.

Bill

[Cubfriend]

That is for certain!

[Dale Finch]

I can honestly tell you guys, without this forum, and all its resources, I would never have had the courage/wherewithal to tackle most of these projects.

But the greatest aspect of all are the words of wisdom and encouragement from all you folks! I think we all enjoy (and need) the "attaboys" and "attagirls" that are expressed here!

I thank you VERY much!

[Dale Finch]

While I await parts arrival, I cleaned the front spindle and hub assemblies, and addressed a couple other items.

I first used a gun bore brass cleaning brush, then this nylon one ( a metal straw cleaner!) to do a final cleaning of the headbolt hole. I then "chased" the threads with another new bolt.

I used Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket to seal the threads. (I did remove some of the sealer, before installing it)

Torqued the bolt to 45 ft-lbs.

Per Bob's suggestion, and to avoid having to cut off a small amount, I used 2 Grade 8 washers...one was not thick enough...to keep the end of the bolt out of the water jacket.

On a side job, I repeated generously spraying the brake/clutch shaft with PB Blaster to continue to make its motion smoother.

[Dale Finch]

The brakes on both sides are not very effective, and will probably require final removal to see if the linings are gone. At that time I will do the "normal" seal replacements, and check for any other issues. Problem for now is that there is a fast hitch installed, which I plan to sell, but I had planned to play with it a little bit. I figured, though, I could go ahead and prepare for brake rod adjustments, so removed the right rod, cleaned it and primed it.

Hub caps cleaned...

...and primed

Half way through wire brushing the wheel bolts

[Lt.Mike]

Moving right along I see. Your pretty brave taking on that head bolt. I’ll bet it kept you up at night thinking about it .

[Dale Finch]

I debated 2 days! It was such a tiny leak! What pushed me was the fact that though it didn't look so bad with just plain water in the radiator (still doing leak checks), it was going to be truly ugly with that iridescent green antifreeze seeping out!! Just could not see having a green tractor!!!

[SONNY]

Little leaks usually become BIG leaks! lol! --- even if they dont, they make a mess of the surrounding parts.

[Dale Finch]

I don't remember right now who just posted about his battery cable insulation being worn through, but my next task was to install the clips that are meant to prevent this.
First, in order to get the clutch pedal out of the way, I used a large pair of "vice grips" to clamp the pedal to the stop.

I then used needle nose vise grips to squeeze the two tabs of the dash clip together so the screw can be inserted. This CAN be a real pain, because there is little access room.

With the clip held in place (friction is holding the screw there), I used a 1/4" drive ratchet with a long extension, to reach across to the clip to put the nut on. I had to stack a couple nuts into the socket, so that the nut I was installing would be flush with the socket end, enabling it to be screwed on.

Now for the "anti-chafing" clip next to the clutch pedal. It is only a flat strip of metal, wrapped around the battery cable and tail light wire, but must be fairly well flattened so it may be wedged between the pedal and the clutch housing. That scrape mark was made by the clutch pedal return spring, so you can see it really must be installed.

The clip is clamped down, to keep it in place, and then it is pushed aft into position.

You can see the nice amount of clearance along the cable...after the photo, the clip was pushed a bit further aft.

[Dale Finch]

While I wait for my front wheel bearing parts to arrive, I figure I can install the felts and oil seals.
According to the Service Manual (section 3-4), they should both be "LUBRICATED" before installation. What lubricant should be used...light oil, engine oil, grease...?

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%20Ribbon%20Service%20Manuals/GSS-1411%20Service%20Manual%20for%20Cubs%20and%20Lo-boy%20Tractors/Section%203%20-%20Steering,%20Front%20Wheels%20And%20Front%20Axle/Page-03-04.jpg

[Rmpelley]

I am literally waiting for mine to arrive as well and would like to know. Also how did you pull the felt/seals off ?

[Dale Finch]

I stuck a screwdriver under the felts and just pulled them over the seals. That gave me about 1/4" for the bearing splitter to get behind the oil seal and easily pull it off.

Broken Felt Seal being removed from behind the oil seal. The other side I was able to pull around the oil seal in one piece.

[Glen]

Hi,
I don't see anything about what lube to put on the front wheel seals in the 1955 Cub operator's manual.
It has a page about greasing the front wheel bearings.
I guess you will just need to guess.
You could put motor oil on the inside of the seal before putting it on, if it is tight on the spindle.

After putting them on, I would grease the seal, and inside the hub where the seals run.
The hub probably will be turning on the seals for a long time, grease lasts longer than oil.

After putting the felts on, I would soak them with motor oil, that might help keep water out.

[Dale Finch]

Unless I hear otherwise, I guess I will saturate the felts and the oil seal with engine oil "before installation" per the manual. The seal, itself is leather, so I'm hoping the oil will soak in, but I think I will also apply some wheel bearing grease after installation.

Any other comments or suggestions?