'55 Cub "Refurbishing"

[Glen]

I see, thanks for explaining the drawing.

[Dale Finch]

Jumping ahead...or over...some work that has been done, I have reached a dilemma! What I thought might be a rear seal leak, turned out to be a touch control block leak, so...ugh...I began disassembly again to remove the TC. While disconnecting the rockshaft from the connecting rod, there was a lot of slop. Once the pin was removed, I saw there was NO bushing. Also, the leak wasn't only from the connecting rod (the hoped-for and most common source of fluid), but also the main piston. So I might as well tear the block apart, checking the screen and cleaning everything up...probably a full rebuild. This will take some time.

Meanwhile, I have a beautiful rebuilt touch control block sitting on a shelf, ready to be bolted on. And this is where the dilemma is...do I save time now by bolting on the (presumed) working TC block, which is painted a nice bright red, but will be a stark contrast to the "patina" of this cub in its work clothes? Or do I go ahead and tear this one down, order the needed parts, and rebuild this one?

At the time of this TC block was rebuilt, my 3 cubs were nicely painted, which is why I painted the rebuilt block. I now have 3 more cubs in their work clothes. I KNOW that as soon as I put the painted block in this cub, one of the 3 painted cubs will need a TC swap!!

Oh my...

[Don B.]

I say you to order the parts and go ahead and rebuild this block.
If you pull the one off the shelf and use it now you'll be going into your mowing season without the spare TC block. You know you can almost guarantee one of your main mowing Cubs will be able sense this and break down immediately.

[Bill Hudson]

Dale,

Nothing is urgent here, from your description. Knowing you, at least a little bit, that shiny red TC on Cub in working clothes will drive you nuts because it doesn't match. Fix the leaking one, put it back on and it will match perfectly. Case closed, blood pressure and heart rate normal.

Bill

[Don McCombs]

In order to keep the 55 in it’s “original” clothes, I would opt for rebuilding the one in the tractor.

[Cubfriend]

Go ahead and rebuild it. You know you want to! You won’t “feel right” with that bright red one glaring at you.

[Mht]

I agree with rebuilding the one without the new paint. Every time I go into my nicely cleaned and painted parts to replace something it’s not long before I’m repainting a tractor to match. I’m pretty sure you have no shortage of cubs to mow with and as previously said as soon as you don’t have a spare touch control you will need one

[Dale Finch]

You guys are SO much fun!!! This forum is what keeps me going...more than the tractors, I think! I love your sick humor, warped logic, and ability to enable! But in this case, you are reading me quite well!!

OK, one thing occurred to me, that perhaps you "experts" can answer...with no bushing having been in the connecting rod, how badly do you think the hole has been wallered out? Anyone have measurements of the bushing, and how I could accurately measure the hole? The only tool I have for measuring is a non-digital Vernier caliper, and I'm not sure that is accurate enough.

I'm just worried that if the new bushing (TM has it: http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/587fp.htm) isn't a tight fit, it will simply rotate, defeating the purpose of having a bushing. Without that bushing, there was a fare amount of "slap" with a change of movement.

[Glen]

Hi,
If there is much wear, you may need to replace parts, I don't know without seeing it.

After you put the new bushing in, it will probably need reaming in the ID before you can put the pin in.

Below is a post from recently about replacing the bushing.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=109593

[Dale Finch]

Thanks, Glen! I had forgotten this post. I'll probably go ahead & order the bushing, and check out the fit then... hopefully the connecting rod isn't worn, and the bushing doesn't simply fall out! This is a good reminder of the probable need to ream the inside of the bushing.

[Dale Finch]

MEANWHILE...!! Back to the front wheel rebuilds...where was I...

I did soak the felts with engine oil, as well as the leather seal.

Soaking felt and leather seal with engine oil

I used some old bearings/races I keep around, along with a block of wood then brass drifts to drive the seal, then the inner bearing (generously packed with grease) onto the axle, then the inner race and wear ring into the hub.

Installing the felt and oil seal (be careful with the seal...it is easy to distort the metal part if you do not concentrate the forces in the inside area closest to the axle

Installing inner bearing with an old bearing section as far as the first shoulder, then used a brass drift

Inner race installed with a brass drift

Wear ring installed with a block of wood

[Dale Finch]

Greased the hub, installed it, packed the outer bearings, and installed.

Greased the hub reusing old race on one side, replacing the race on the other

Packed the outer bearings

Snugged down the castle nut with washer under it & installed the wheel. Then tightened the nut until there was more than required drag while rotating the wheel. Backed off until free spinning and retightened until slight drag, as instructed in the manual. Secured the castle nut with a cotter pin, installed the hub cap, and repeated on the other side.

Installed the outer bearing, washer, castle nut, cotter pin after preloading the new bearing, then slight drag.

Completed

Completed

[Dale Finch]

Drained plain water from radiator and refilled with 50/50 antifreeze after a successful leak test on the new radiator and drain plug

Compression test: 1-103, 2-109, 3-110, 4-108
Since I really haven't run this tractor much, I am happy with those numbers. Will work it hard for a bit then retest.

Used the Earl Fauber Fuel Tank Neck Straightening Tool...new cap seems to seat nicely.

One of the dogleg nuts was missing. Rather than weld a new one on, decided to try JB Weld.

Tape used to keep JB Weld from oozing out the other side!

[Dale Finch]

Greased the TOB, replaced the rotten headlight grommets and hooked up the lights (all work), chased the dogleg screw holes and installed hood, etc.
After taking her out for a test drive, I decided I could not, in good conscience, try to work her with the brakes not working like they should...so back into the shop!! I think she really likes being a "SHOP QUEEN"!!!

The next jobs are to remove both finals, replace parts (seals, etc.) as needed, and get her back on her "feet"! Decided to tackle the right one first.

Securely blocked the front end

Removed the right wheel assembly, then the fast hitch

Re-blocked the right side for final removal

Disconnected brake rod

Strapped up the final to the engine hoist - seems I can't do any tractor repair without this tool!!

Dowels were pretty stuck, but finally pried and wacked the final off!

[Dale Finch]

After removing the brake band and the drum, I found the woodruff key was BEHIND the brake drum. Apparently, when the drum was last installed, they did not notice the key had been pushed out of the slot, so the drum was free to spin on the shaft. Guess I know why the RIGHT brake didn't work!!

Brake lining looked good, but very oily. Burned it off with a propane torch and will reuse.

Removed the cap, then the differential shaft. Parts were rather dirty with OLD gear oil, but cleaned up OK...bearing looked good so reused.

Found this the easiest way to work on the final housing...access to the pan screws, as well as ability to turn the housing around for thorough cleaning.

Using my mini angle grinder with scotchbrite pads (a FANTASTIC tool!), cleaned up all gasket mating surfaces.

After cleaning housing, reinstalled the pan with a new hand-made gasket.

Replaced the Differential Shaft Oil Pinion Seal with new one from NAPA, SKF 16128