'55 Cub "Refurbishing"

[Dale Finch]

Another question... I have noticed that most head bolts are black. And I know most Grade 8 bolts from a hardware store are the plated yellowish-brown color. Is there a reason to NOT use a regular Grade 8 bolt if I decide to only replace this one seeping bolt? It is readily available...

[Don B.]

I ordered my bolts (grade 8 ) from Fastenal because I noticed that the bolts were 2 different lengths and those particular lengths were not 'standard' at my local sources. I didn't know if it mattered so, as not to risk anything, I ordered the "correct" lengths.

[Eugene]

Grade 8 is a grade 8. Color differences are from the manufacturing process, in this case the plating. Most likely the plating is corrosion resistant. Bolt from hardware store, cut to length. Cheaper and faster than ordering.

[Gary S.]

I think you'll find that the originals were black unfinished bolts because after the machine was built they were painted. Now days hardware you buy off the shelf are zinc plated which protects the steel from flash rust then yellow chromated which protects the zinc, both of which are primarily done for looks. Cadmium was the best for protection but rightly so is now heavily regulated. 35 years ago I restored an old MG,I had all the hardware for it replated using cadmium- it was 1.00 a pound 50 pound minimum. It has held up great. I recently had a bunch of marine engine hardware re zinc'd as original, it was double the price and I know it won't hold up as well. It's all done for cost, if it can save 5 cents it adds up.

[Dale Finch]

Thanks! Just made my first attemp at removing the seeping bolt...gave it a few wacks, the tried a low-pressure impact wrench. No go. I'm not real happy with the socket fit on the head...ever so slightly loose. Tried several different sockets and chose the best fit. Tolerances sure do vary, and the bolt head could be a bit worn or undersized. Sprayed it with PB Blaster, and will go back to it later. Sigh...

Update: It is THAT ONE bolt with the slightly undersized head...all the others are tight. Of course the bad one was slightly rusty AND the others have paint on them.

[Gary S.]

Be sure to use a 6 point socket rather than a 12

[Jim in SC]

Slow and steady, lots of PB and heat. And patience!

[Dale Finch]

That's exactly why I'm heading out to the hardware store..."walking away"!

That, and it's lunch time!!

[Bob McCarty]

Rather than cutting a bolt to length, you can also place a grade 8 washer under the head.

[Dale Finch]

Rather than cutting a bolt to length, you can also place a grade 8 washer under the head.

That sure would be easier, and since the bolts from the hardware are zinc (?) coated, I would preserve the coating at the bottom.

Would it affect the torque value?

[Dale Finch]

I noticed there was a fairly large "lower end" range of no response between the throttle quadrant and the governor (almost half the quadrant before an rpm change). I had repaired the gov. rockshaft slop earlier, but until I ran it, hadn't noticed the slop involving the governor spring/lever. I bought a new governor spring yesterday, and planned to "repair" the holes it attaches to. That is, until I started to see how I was going to accomplish this!

Now, you'll remember that I just replaced the radiator, right?! And that whole front end was accessable?! All I can say is, I need to add to my definite DO's & DON'T's:

WHEN YOU HAVE THE RADIATOR, ETC. OFF, ALWAYS REPAIR/REPLACE THE GOVERNOR SPRING!!!!

I started to remove things, but honestly, since this was NOT going to be a total restoration, I may just live with it...unless someone can tell me how to remove the governor lever WITHOUT removing the radiator.

[Bob McCarty]

Would it affect the torque value?

No.

[Waif]

I noticed there was a fairly large "lower end" range of no response between the throttle quadrant and the governor (almost half the quadrant before an rpm change). I had repaired the gov. rockshaft slop earlier, but until I ran it, hadn't noticed the slop involving the governor spring/lever. I bought a new governor spring yesterday, and planned to "repair" the holes it attaches to. That is, until I started to see how I was going to accomplish this!

Now, you'll remember that I just replaced the radiator, right?! And that whole front end was accessable?! All I can say is, I need to add to my definite DO's & DON'T's:

WHEN YOU HAVE THE RADIATOR, ETC. OFF, ALWAYS REPAIR/REPLACE THE GOVERNOR SPRING!!!!

I started to remove things, but honestly, since this was NOT going to be a total restoration, I may just live with it...unless someone can tell me how to remove the governor lever WITHOUT removing the radiator.

If you've done the linkage to carb/governor adjustments as you would when installing a new carb, or replacing a carb , and you have the r.p.m. range control from low to maximum ;you'll be fine with slop in your quadrant.
That may come with some lag in response. But having the r.p.m. range would be my greater concern. If that falls off to an unacceptable level , the radiator removal looms as part of the cure.

My 47 has a limited effective quadrant range too. But an acceptable (for me) r.p.m. range is still findable. So no sleep lost here from it...

[Dale Finch]

That's pretty much where I am...since I haven't really run this much, I will resolve the charging issue, and kick its butt out to the farm, where I can give it a good workout, and assess it then.

[k hutchins]

I replaced my governor spring while l had mine torn down. Didn't have a problem working around the radiator. The problem is that the original spring ends were opposite each other. On the new springs they are on the same side. Definitely makes it a little tricky keeping one end in while trying to work the other in.
Be careful with that bolt. If it breaks off (knock wood that doesn't happen) you might as well plan on removing the head and replacing the gasket and all of the bolts because you'll need to drill that one out. Take your time, l'll keep my fingers crossed for ya.