flushing crankcase

[Pembroke]

first time user here. Have a 1950 Cub hasn't been used/started in several years. Been stored in shed. brought home and NO spark. Cleaned the points and set gap. Now have spark and starts and runs pretty good. Drained oil from crankcase, black and thick. Removed oil filter, nasty. I've been reading on here today about cleaning crankcase with a FLUSH KIT. Question: where does one find this kit and brand name? I talked to Service man at case ih and he said to use kerosene with oil. You guys say no because of no oil in kerosene. Question : what oil weight do you recommend for these older tractors? Thanks for all the info. Pembroke

[Mht]

I think IH recommended non detergent 30 weight for most temperatures but I run rotella 15-40 in mine. As far as oil goes you will get a lot of different responses. I run 15-40 Rotella in all my tractors and trucks mainly so I don’t have to keep multiple kinds and weights around. As far as flushing the block I used a pressure washer through the side of the block after removing the lower radiator hose and the elbow it’s attached to that bolts to the block. I also flushed the radiator and block by running a mix of water and arm and hammer washing powder for an hour or two in the cooling system. I think if you search for block flushing tool on the forum you will see that you can make one with some copper tube and a fitting to connect it to a garden hose

[Eugene]

My opinion. I would change the oil filter and clean the oil filter drain tube. Then do a couple of rapid engine oil changes.

Oil of your choice. Like Mht I use the same multi-weight oil, different brand name, in all my tractors and machines. Much simpler that way.

Change the oil filter after the second oil change.

[indy61]

Old school mechanic told me to change oil and filter but use 1 quart of ATF in place of a quart of oil. Run till time for next oil change and use detergent oil from now on.

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub operator's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the 1950 Cub operator's manual. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 14.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

It shows the electrical system that a 1950 Cub originally had.
Cubs made before mid 1964 originally had 6 volt, positive ground electrical systems.

The Touch Control fluid mentioned in the manual for the Touch Control, was changed later to use Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.
There are other brands, be sure it works with IH hydraulic systems before buying one.

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using it with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in the housing.
There are 3 separate gear housings, with 3 separate oil levels to check, in the rear area of a Cub, the transmission, and 2 final drives.

The transmissions in Cubs commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.

The air cleaner is an oil bath air cleaner. Dirt that is sucked in settles to the bottom of the oil cup. It should have clean, light motor oil in the oil cup to work right.

There is a search box at the top of the page, to the right of the Farmall Cub, you can search for info that is on this website that people have posted.

Mht is talking about flushing the cooling system above, not the oil, or inside the crankcase.

The 15W-40 motor oil is good to use, the engines are not new, and thin motor oil can cause low oil pressure, if the engine is worn some.
You may need a little thinner oil if you are going to use the Cub in cold Winter temperatures.
Good luck with the Cub.

[Don McCombs]

There is no "flush kit" for the engine, that I am aware of. To add to Eugene's suggestions, I would add three ounces of Seafoam to each of the oil changes.

[Peter Person]

...and make sure to prime the oil pump.
Don’t want to run the engine without oil flowing.

[Pembroke]

Thanks for all the great info. Question: How does one go about primming the oil pump?

[Don McCombs]

Scroll down in this thread for a description of the procedure.

http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... 5&start=60

[Mht]

I’m sorry I misread your post about flushing the crankcase. I was talking about flushing the cooling system which is probably not a bad idea also. The bolster (bottom of the radiator) is bad for collecting crud as is the block around cylinders 3 and 4. As for the crankcase a little sea foam and a couple of oil changes should take care of that