some cub questions

[Pembroke]

is the oil pan bolted to the bell housing ? I see oil leaking at that point.
where is the drain plug and oil level plug for transmission? I have picture of such but not too clear.
I want to flush out radiator and block. Is there a good solution that will clean these?
ALL info is appreciated and welcome. Thanks. Pembroke

[Glen]

Hi,
No, the engine oil pan isn't bolted to the clutch housing.
The oil pan bolts all face up, and the rear 3 bolts go into the rear seal retainer, which is soft metal.
The oil pan gasket could be seeping oil, the bolts might need tightening some, or the rear seal could be leaking. Both are common problems.
There is originally a cover on the bottom front of the clutch housing, held on with 4 bolts, remove that to get to the 3 rear oil pan bolts.

Below are pics of the cover from TM Tractor.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gcl/cov2_001.htm

The 3 rear oil pan bolts are hard to get to.
Don't tighten them hard, the metal is soft, and the threads can strip.
The other oil pan bolts go into the cast iron engine, and front cover, but tightening the bolts too hard bends the oil pan at the bolt holes.

The transmission oil drain plug is at the bottom of the transmission, and can be seen from under the platform, it can't be seen from the rear of the Cub.
The trans oil level plug is low on the left side of the trans. It is small, remove it and fill it until oil runs out the hole.
I posted an operator's manual for you in another post, hopefully you found it.

There is info for flushing the cooling system in the operator's manual, using washing soda, people have said on here they have tried it, and it worked well.
The info is on page 26 of the 1950 operator's manual.

[Whitecub50]

Hey guys I have a question?, I have static timed my magneto on my cub several times and to no avail the timing is off when I put all back together and put timing light on it?. What am I doing wrong? Or is this a sign of a bad mag? Brand new points condenser rotor point gap set at 0.13” rotated the mag counterclockwise just before it trips but right after number one has fired. Rotated the motor until compression stroke at TDC on #1 rotated engine after installation of mag once around then turned mag away from engine until it just snapped, boom should be timed? The groove in the pulley is before the pointer about 10 degrees. I can get it to start but I have a hell of a time. Help please!!!!

[Jim Becker]

It sounds like everything may be close to normal.

The static timing procedure should set the timing (the position the impulse trips) at 0 degrees or TDC. You seem to have done that right. You can recheck by manually cranking the engine over slowly. You should hear the impulse trip just as the pulley notch reaches the pointer.

Once the engine starts the impulse coupler should no longer engage and the timing automatically advances to the lag angle that is built into the magneto. This amount is 13 degrees. If you put a timing light on, you should see 13 degrees of advance. There is no mark on the pulley for 13 degrees. If your timing light can be set for a specific advance, you can set it to check. Otherwise, the notch in the pulley should be a little over 1/2 inch from the pointer.

[Whitecub50]

Ok thanks. I will double check everything out and see what I come up with. Maybe the new points I put In are out of adjustment? It’s happened before where I didn’t tighten up the points enough and the gap changed.