Tire valve questions

[xbartx]

I need to resolve my leaking rear tires. They are filled with liquid and have caused corrosion on the rims that I also need to work on.
I'm guessing it is an issue with the valves and not the tubes. Are there replacements available? Can these be replaced without taking the tire and tube off, if so how?

[Don McCombs]

As a temporary solution, you can rotate the rear wheels until the valve stem is on the top. Then replace the valve cores. They are available at any tire outlet or good hardware store. If this solves your leaking problem, I would make plans to effect a long term solution by removing the CaCl, remove the tire and tube from the rim and address the corroding rims. Then replace the tubes and remount the tires.

[Eugene]

Are there replacements available?

Yes for the stem, the outer end. Also a "patch" including the portion that screws to the rim from the inside is available.

Can these be replaced without taking the tire and tube off?

The stem can be unscrewed from the base and easily replaced. If you are needing a patch, then you need to dismount the tire and tube.

My suggestion, dismount the tire and tube. Inspect the rim. Air up the tube looking for pin holes.

The stem patch. Usually easier to replace the tube. Much less work and just a bit more expensive.

[Glen]

Hi,
I would use a garden hose with a nozzle, and wash the rims to remove all the salt water on the outside of the rims, and the inside also, if you take the tires off the rims.
Use a brush too, if the build up is much.

Keep the rims washed with clean water, so there is no salt water standing on them.
The salt water corrodes the rims, you probably knew.

The valve cores screw out of the center of the valve stem, under where the valve cap goes. You need a special tool for them, they are made on the end of metal valve caps also. Ask at NAPA or an auto parts store.
You didn't say if the valves are leaking much, or if it is just a slow seeping over time.

Sometimes the valve stem is ruined from the salt water. The upper part of the stem is replaceable, the collar about half way down the stem screws on, loosen it, and the upper stem pulls out, it has a seal at the bottom end.
Tire stores that work on tractor tires probably have new stems.
There are 2 styles that I know of, the ones in your pics are probably the older style. The newer style will not fit if it uses the older style.

Below are pics.
The 1st are valve caps that fit a valve core.
The 2nd is a valve core.
The 3rd is the upper part of the valve stem.

[NJ Farmer]

I know I have had this disagreement with other members before but my “opinion” is to remove all fluid from the tires. ESPECIALLY CALCIUM CHLORIDE ie salt water. The rims are made of steel and putting water and steel together over time will have long lasting permanent damage to the rim.

That been said and damage that is already done my suggestion would be as repeated above to remove all the calcium chloride from the tire with fresh water and flush the tire many times. You ask how many time I would says until you are tired of filling and draining the tire (may be ten times) flush it clean. You will never be able to completely dry the inside of the tire unless you dismount the tire. You can remove the valve core (which will come out in pieces I am sure) retap the threads and insert a new valve core. If you want or need extra weight go out and buy some wheel weights they are cheaper than replacing rims.

NJ Farmer

[NJ Farmer]

I forgot to mention that there is a special fitting that you can buy (do a google search) and tire valve loading fittting.
Basically it is a fitting that attaches to your tire and will attach to a garden hose. Milton S-466 valve adapter worked for me.

NJ Farmer

[Eugene]

You can do it your self and save quite a bit of money.. Just be prepared for a battle.

Removing the fluid is going to cause a mess. Locate/sit the tractor some place where you can leave the tractor for a decent length of time. Some place where you can work on the tire, don't mind killing the grass, access to water.

The schrader valve/valve core usually comes out without a problem, some times not. The stem and the nut holding the tube in place, are sometimes so corroded that they can not be unscrewed.

The tire bead may be fused to the rim.

[xbartx]

Thanks for all of the replies!
Can I jack up one wheel at a time and with the valve at the top of the wheel, try and remove the valve core without having the liquid come out? If I can stop the leak which is very small, I would like to put off any tire/ rim removal till the spring. I'm not sure I have the ability to remove the tire from the rim myself and might need to take it somewhere to be done.

[Don McCombs]

Yes, you can. Or, if the tractor is operable, drive it forward or back until the valve stem comes to the top. Have someone guide you.

[Eugene]

I'm not sure I have the ability to remove the tire from the rim myself and might need to take it somewhere to be done.

If you are physically capable of removing the tire and rim, then loading into a pickup, you can remove the tire.

Gonna be expensive to have a shop work on the tire. Then, when the shop is finished you still have to install the tire and rim.

Farm tractor tire shops will come to your property to do the hard labor part, fluid drain, tube/tire removal.

[Waif]

It's a bother at times...But I park with stems above the halfway point. More like 3/4
Keeps fluid from leaking out.
It's not an air leak thing. If that makes any sense.

[Scrivet]

..... my suggestion would be as repeated above to remove all the calcium chloride from the tire with fresh water and flush the tire many times. You ask how many time I would says until you are tired of filling and draining the tire (may be ten times) flush it clean.
NJ Farmer

I would buy a new tube before doing all that monkeying around.

[xbartx]

I decided to proceed with pulling off the tires and tubes so I could evaluate the rims. I figure the rust will only get worse. I got one wheel/tire off, at least I broke the bead on both sides. The valve stem is still in and it looks like from the earlier picture that after the locknut unscrews then it is just a matter of pulling the valve out, does that sound right?
I need to find something to use as tire irons/spoons to get the tires off the rim, any suggestions?

My make shift bead buster

[Eugene]

Tire spoons. Any auto parts store or Harbor Freight.

Purchase the tire tools with the longest handle. You will probably need 3 tools or 2 tools and a hugh flat bladed screwdriver.

FYI. It's easier to remove the tire and tube with the rim still mounted to the tractor. Two or three flat pry bars and a big hammer work well for breaking beads.

[Glen]

Yes, the round nut screws onto the base of the valve, remove it and the valve comes out with the tube.

Be careful to not pinch the tube between the tire tools and the rim, it can cut the tube.

When the tire is on the rim, and you inflate it, inflate it once, then let all the air out, all that will come out, then inflate it again. This help straighten out any folds in the tube, the tube can be in the wrong position in places, and have folds in it. Deflating it once helps the tube to move so the folds are straightened out. The tube can fail in time where the folds are.

Rear Cub tires use low pressure, unless you are lifting heavy loads on the rear.
12 psi works well for normal use. You can use more if you want.
Below is a page from the 1965 Cub operator's manual showing rear tire pressures, in the table.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-50.jpg

Below are pressures for the front tires. I use about 30 psi, it steers easier than lower pressures.
Your tires probably need to be good to use the higher pressures.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-49.jpg