1976 CUB new home!

[amishcountrycubfan]

I have just acquired a fresh, new to me 1976 IH CUB! it starts and runs well, has the quieted transmission i have heard on a cub yet. it does need some Quality TLC though. pics/video are from literally getting it home and off the trailer this afternoon.
It has been a long time since I have been on this site since I had to sell my cubs a few years back but now I am once again in the thick of them! so if I ask anything or anything that is common knowledge or anything like that I am sorry.

First; the copper fuel line is a mess and leaks something fierce. Also the carb is a Bendix???????? with a cable operated choke these late cubs still should use a rod style correct?

Second; when the tractor is running is has some white smoke coming out of the oil dip stick tube, I hope its condensation and not something more serious. It's hard to get a picture of it, but i did get it on a walk around video of the tractor running if anyone is interested.

Third; the left brake peddle is sticking when used, seeing as i just got it home i have not been able to get into that yet.... ideas?

Fourth; the mower on the cub is a Sun-Mastr 60" I was told that they are no longer in business? belts i can work with will bearings be a problem? It too needs some TLC

No matter what though I'm just happy to be back on the cub train!

[amishcountrycubfan]

a few more images

[Bob McCarty]

The Zenith-Bendix carb is correct and should have a cable choke, not the rod. Make sure you have oil pressure, it may need to be primed is the needle on the oil gauge doesn't move in 20-30 seconds. Welcome back to the Forum.

[Eugene]

Welcome back.

Mower deck bearings will be a standard bearing. Identifying and cross referencing may take a bit of effort.

[Don McCombs]

You might want to add to your list of things to do in the near future, replacing the combination copper and rubber fuel line with an all steel one. You can form your own from 5/16 uncoated brake line or TM Tractor Parts has them available.

[Dale Finch]

Left brake pedal (and probably the clutch pedal, too) probably just needs a lot of PB Blaster sprayed into all the joints. Check that the return spring is intact, too. I am just finishing up a cub refurbishing, and am still spraying the clutch/brake shaft area to make sure it is free. Spray it and work it up/down dozens of times, then repeat dozens of times...for days!! Much easier than trying to disassemble!!

Another place to spray liberally are the governor linkages, from the lever where the throttle rod connects to the governor then across to the carb rod...notorious for binding which can cause surging. And check for any slop along the way, as well as the condition of the governor spring.

Cubs are truly addictive...welcome back!!

[CharlieK]

you got a very nice tractor---thanks for posting.


........................

[k hutchins]

Others giving advice on the Cub. I was focussing on the mower deck. My thought is that if the deck is sound, maybe check Woods pulleys and spindles, and just swap them out. Then replace the bearings on the 2 "idler" pulleys if need be.
Just a thought, welcome back.

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub looks good in your pictures.

The Cub operator's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the operator's manual for Cubs serial number 248125, which was mid 1975, and above.
The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 2.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 50.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

It shows the electrical system that a mid 1975 and above Cub originally had, with the 12 volt Delco alternator.

The Hy-Tran fluid mentioned in the manual for the Touch Control, transmission, and final drives, is sold at Case IH dealers.
There are other brands, be sure it works with IH hydraulic systems before buying one.

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using it with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in the housing.
There are 3 separate gear housings, with 3 separate oil levels to check, in the rear area of a Cub, the transmission, and 2 final drives.

The transmissions in Cubs commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.

The air cleaner is an oil bath air cleaner. Dirt that is sucked in settles to the bottom of the oil cup. It should have clean, light motor oil in the oil cup to work right.

There is a search box at the top of the page, to the right of the Farmall Cub, you can find info in posts that have been made.

The carburetor, choke cable, and knob look correct in your pics for Cubs serial 248125 and above.
There are pics of the carb and part of the gas tube on page 33 of the manual above, it is 3 pics there.

IH began using that carb at Cub serial number 248125.
They are also called a Zenith carb.
Below is a listing from TM Tractor for the Zenith carb, you can look at the pics, the info shows that they were used on the Cub.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/2376fp.htm

It looks like 1 page of the contents in the manual above is gone, before page 2. Page 2 says continued from the previous page, and the listings are from page 39 and up.

Check the Touch Control fluid level with the arms in the rear or down position.
The fluid level rises as the arms go to the rear position. There is an airspace in the top of the unit, if you fill it with the arms ahead, it will have too much fluid in it.
Also if you check it with the arms ahead, it will look low on fluid, even if it has enough.
The older Cubs came with a sticker on the hood that said to check the level with the arms in the rear position.

Good luck with the Cub.

[Glen]

Hi,
For your question 2 above, it could be stuck piston rings causing some blowby, which comes out the breather. Other people on here have had it happen.
You could try using an engine oil additive and see if it helps.
The people on here use Seafoam, it is sold at auto parts stores.

It takes some time to work, one of the experts on here said use it for 2 oil change periods.
The operator's manual says to change the engine oil every 100 hours of use.
The additive won't help much if the rings are wornout.
You could do a compression test and see if the compression is good.

[Stanton]

Welcome back!

Congrats on the new-to-you Cub. Don't forget that infamous post that never goes out of style: What to do with a Cub you just brought home

We’d also encourage you to take the Safety Test located in the Safety Forum: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=68084

[Gary Dotson]

I had a Sunmaster, like that one, years ago. The bearings and seals are all common parts, I got them from Motion Industries. If I remember correctly, the bearings in the idler pulleys were replaceable and common as well. Belts are standard "B" width, available anywhere. Enjoy the new Cub and welcome back!

[amishcountrycubfan]

Finally I have an update only took 3 months but hey.

the old plugs in the tractor were... well interestingly the tractor had 3 different plugs in it... and all were out of gap tolerance. replaced with some new autolites tried to start it and it wasn't good, I could barely get the tractor running and even then it was smoking and missing something awful. talk about disheartening. Went back to the forum and decided to try some D21's... started right away and was running great (I wont know for sure till its mowing season, but it pulled crazy hard in 3rd gear so I'm hopeful)

When I changed the plugs I also attempted to work on the smoking issue, sea foam seems to be helping the smoking so that's positive. I hope to get all the oils drained and replaced this weekend. Do you all think I should drop the oil pan and clean it out when I change the engine oil? I'm thinking yes????

After this weekend I need to tackle the electrical I have no lights currently working so I need to sort that out as it seems the previous owner made some modifications to the electrics.

I picked up a another project (to my wife's dismay) this past weekend that I'm definitely going to need some assistance on repairing/restoring.

[Don McCombs]

Make sure you have a pan gasket and a bottle of Indian Head Shellac on hand before you drop the oil pan.

[Stevetractor]

Try pouring some sea foam directly on top of the pistons, all in mid stroke. Let that soak down and around rings and grooves. It will help dissolve old carbon to help rings seat better. Best to do it when tractor will be sitting a few days. I use a big syringe with a hose on it to reach bores from plug holes. Couple of ounces in each bore, then maybe do it again in a few days. Rock fan a bit every time u walk by. Change the oil, dump some more sea foam in high test gas, and run the ol girl hard. Good luck, and nice tractor.